I'll take a pic when I get home today, it actually looks pretty cool retrofitted on.

 

Wait, what year is your car? E37??? Also, a new ecu will not just plug in a go, it will have to be reprogrammed for your car, using gm tisweb and a gm scan tool, ur screwed!

 

Ahh, **** are you serious? How much would the dealer charge to do that?

It's an 07 with the E37, it's the right part, but I didn't know it wasn't plug and play.

 

Sorry to give you bad news,lol... I guess that all depends on your dealer, i would imagine about an hour labor at whatever their rate is, my dealer charges $85.00 an hour so... This is correct info as far as i know, your pcm knows what vehicle it belongs to by the VIN, it get's preprogrammed at the factory. If you replace the pcm it needs to be reprogrammed to your VIN.
Make sure Vince knows it's the e37 pcm, and is not trying to send you a tune for the 05-06 pcm.

 

Ok, well just as long as they'll do it, I don't mind paying. It's all just drops in the pail at this point anyways.

Ok guys, here's how it stands. I checked every damn fuse and relay, they are all good, didn't find a single blown fuse, and even one that looked funny I replaced with the spare. When I turn the key, it starts for less than 2 seconds, then dies. Afterwards, you can see the gauges going crazy and it says -40* on the temperature. After maybe 5 seconds of that, you can see it go back to normal and the gauges slowly creep to where they are at normally.

At this point, it's something electrical. Just don't know what or where.

 

Is your security light flashing after the no start, but before you turn the key off?
If it starts for a second then shuts down your security system is active. Somehow the tune must have wiped the info in the vehicle theft deterent module out. You really need to get a scan tool that will read data to look into this further and also check the body control system for codes.
Does Vince know you have the e37 pcm?
I know you probally told him it was an 07 but it may not have clicked with him and he sent you a tune for the wrong pcm which will definitly cause all this. The chances of just developing an electrical issue are slim. This has to be something that you have done recently.
Did you just put the turbo system on or did you do a clutch kit or something also?

You didn't do any welding with parts attached to the car did you?

Sorry for all the questions, i just want to see you get this thing going and am trying to help figure out the problem. If you want me to butt out just say so...

 

No dude, honestly you're a big help. Yes, as a matter of fact it does have the security car lock light coming on after it dies and before I remove the key. I'm pretty sure Vince knows I have the E37, but I'll double check with him. The GT Tuner has a code scanner, but it does not display any more codes. I see the CEL, but when I scan I get nothing.

I've thought it might be the theft deturrent from the beginning, but I don't even have a security system so I didn't think it could become active. Something the mechanic must have done must have triggered it, because before I took it to him, it would at least crank. No major modifications have been done since, except for fixing a vacuum leak and installing a new fuel rail.

How do I go about disabling that anti-theft? Is there a fuse I can just pull, or I guess that would make it too easy, lol.

 

Actually, the vehicle theft deterent is built with the car, it has to do with your ignition key. The car disables fuel if it thinks it is being started without a key or does not have the correct infomation from the pcm. But a theft deterent issue will definitly come up if your having programming issues.

Did you say it won't crank?

What did your mechanic do to the car for you?

Did the car run ok before putting the turbo on?

 

I put the turbo on, and I could crank it, but because of my 2.2 fuel rail the injectors were just dumping fuel and it ran really bad. I got him to look at it, and he found a vacuum leak and repaired it. I bought a lsj fuel rail to fit the longer injectors so they wouldn't dump fuel, and they sealed up good then. Also found a better way to run my map. Went to start the car, and it's doing what it's doing now. He checked the fuses, and that's why it threw the fuel pump relay code, but we double checked that and it's fine. No codes now.

He verified fuel pressure in the rail, and it's sparking, but it shuts itself down 2 secs after ignition.

Like I said, car ran before I took it to him, not to say he's a bad mechanic, I don't know what could have activated that security. The battery has been dead, and he might have gotten the key stuck in the ignition and tried something to get it out. But, I don't really know if he did anything that would activate that.

 

yea it sounds like passlock issue undo your battery for 10 mins.. and try to crank it .... if that doesn't work.. then you might need a new ignition switch.. that was an issue with some ions

aybe a longshot but try this:

Passlock learn procedure


Tech Tips: Perform the Passlock learn procedure as follows:
1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON. The vehicle will not start.
3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition and wait 5 seconds.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes.
6. The fourth time the engine is cranked, it should start and run

 

My mechanic had a buddy that tried all kinds of weird, do this, then do that stuff and it didn't work.

Where have you seen that? I want to go try it, but I hate to spend 30 mins if it doesn't work.

 

Ok, like i said before, i definitly think you have a programming issue. You need to get a scan tool that will read data. If not take it to a shop, but first, you need to put in your STOCK injectors and fuel rail, cause if your running a stock tune the pcm will not properly control the fuel.
I know this is a pain, but you got to back track to straighten this out. Now if your mechanic tried to yank the key out of the ignition due to the battery being unhooked. You may need an ignition,switch, BUT i wouldn't throw one more part at it until you properly diagnose it. You really need to befriend a good mechanic that has some experience with gm stuff and access to a good scan tool, have them look at it and go from there....
Also, if you do have to take it to a shop, make sure they understand about the tuning so they don't get it running then try to drive it with stock inj and tune, and have the motor go boom...

 

a bunch of ion guys have the issue lol if your passlock (yellow lock thing ) comes on then the car shuts off thats probably the issue.. which is kinda more what it sounds like then a tune issue since you said it would crnak before just run like ****

 

I went out there and tried that trick, I managed to get it off, but still the same issue. It's not the theft deterrent.

When I let the key stay in the ignition, I notice the clock flickering on and off, and the display on the gauges dimming and sometimes going off and on. The issue is definitely electrical at this point. I don't think it's the pcm anymore, I think I've got a module problem. When I turn the headlights off, everything looks ok, no more flickering or dimming of the clock/radio. So, it's a voltage issue. I can't start it without the headlights automatically coming on, so there's no way of testing that without actually unclipping the headlights themselves.

I managed to datalog it though, I'm sending that to Vince right now. Not sure if it will help or not. No codes again.

Tomorrow I'm going to take it to the dealership and let them diagnose the electrical problem. End of the line.

 

hmmm .. i had that issue when my alternator died.. maybe battery or alternator problem.. every time i'd try to do something everything would start flicking on and off.. Check the + ground cable that hooks into the alternator it could be thats loose

 

Found a few things that may be interesting to you, but DON'T READ TO DEEPLY INTO THIS. Take it to the dealer like you plan to do, i am just giving examples of stuff this could be and i really do believe you have a programming issue. The first one is something you could check if you wanted to but i would just take it to the dealer and be done, also this gm info does not even apply to a cobalt so i doubt it has anything to do with your problem. I sure hope you get this thing figured out!!!

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#PIT4816: Multiple Electrical Concerns With DTC C0900 - keywords battery c/k cable clock crank cycle door dimming flicker gage gauge gmc hvac inop inoperative instrument ipc lock no panel power radio stall - (Feb 27, 2009)


Subject: Multiple Electrical Concerns With DTC C0900


Models: 2007 -2009 Cadillac Escalade, ESV, EXT

2007-2009 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2007-2009 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL

(Equipped with Gasoline Engines)




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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Some customer may experience one or all of the following concerns.

1) Intermittent No Crank or No Vehicle Power ( The customer may get the impression that the vehicle actually has a dead battery )

2) Volt gauge fluctuates, and seems to decrease when a high load accessory is turned on ie.. headlamps, wipers

3) IPC backlighting flickers or IPC goes blank

4) Diagnostic Code: B1325 set in several modules followed with a Dtc: C0900 set in the EBCM.

5) Radio clock resets

6) Intermittent Stall

7) Hvac temperature actuator defaults to hot

8) Door locks cycle

Recommendation/Instructions:
If you experience one or all of the following concerns and a cause for the concern can't be identified, please check the following items:

1) Remove the 175 amp Mega fuse and inspect for arcing, if any type of arcing is found replace the effected components.

2) When re-installing the 175 amp Mega fuse, torque fastners that attach the mega fuse to the positive cables to specification in SI.

2) Check the voltage drop reading on the positive and negative battery cables. The voltage drop should be performed with the fuel injectors disabled and while cranking the engine. The voltage drop should not exceed 200 Mv. If the voltage drop is above 200 Mv, replaced the effected cable.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

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#PIC5107: No Crank After BCM Reprogrammed (BAH Only) - keywords 09-06-04-002A cal calibration control DTC inoperative inop lamp light mil nostart P0604 P0606 P16F3 PCM program security start starter theft - (Feb 26, 2009)


Subject: No Crank After ECM Reprogrammed (BAH only)


Models: 2009 Chevrolet AVEO

2009 Pontiac G3

2009 Pontiac Wave (Canada Only)

With 1.6L RPO LXV




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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
A Service software anomaly has been discovered on vehicle with option BAH (immobilizer). This condition could happen when your are reprogramming an existing ECM and or programming a replacement ECM. It is possible that when programming the ECM, you could select the wrong "diagnostic tool" when Service programming.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Don't do This:
The wrong way is to choose "Tech2 Legacy Pass-thru" If you selected this when programming the ECM, you will now have a NO crank condition. You can still save the ECM by programming it the module correctly.

Do This:
The correct procedure is to choose "J2534" MDI or Tech2 when reprogramming the ECM. You should have the calibration below for "Vehicle System Calibration" which includes (BAH immobilizer)

Auto Trans = 12633385

Manual Trans = 1263386

After programming clear DTCs from program screen, REMOVE KEY for 30 seconds, and then start engine. If this key does not start engine use the second key to start engine.

Note: Theft Immobilizer programming should not be required.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

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very interesting man

 

i know my car the power cable often falls off the battery....
but i was once told long time ago, when you replace your battery, replace your alt too

 

it sounds like when my alternator died/ when the + stud was almost falling off .. it would randomly looks everything and flicker .. lol

 

well they say when your bat is going bad the alt is working overtime and it will cause a premature fail

 

I did manage to get the pcm that I ordered canceled, he already refunded me so it's cool on that.

What I don't understand is, what kind of change could have made it start all of this? I was able to run the car after I tuned it. It was just running really badly because of the fuel injection problem. After my mechanic looked at it, then I couldn't crank it at all. I know he didn't intentionally do anything, if anything he just fixed the vacuum leak, but what the heck would that have to do with the electrical problem?

I have had an issue with my battery cable coming loose, and it flickering, but I just pop the trunk and tighten the cable down. Could the fact that my battery has been dead for a couple of weeks affect the start, even with a battery charger hooked up feeding power?

 

if you suspect a battery problem; remember;

the battery is only used once in a working chargin system, it help start the car, after that the alternator does everything else, it powers the rest of the crap, the batteries job now is to sit there, get re charged, and possibly power everything should the alternator fail, bad alternator leads to bad battery, a way to know if you alternator is good, is, use a good battery, turn the car on, verify its on and isnt going to shut off, than take the battery out, if the car shut down, the alternator is bad/loose/fucked...also since you car is turning on than turning off afterwards, u see how it could be a bad alternator,? bad battery+bad alternator=will shut right off, the battery will have the juice to start it, after that the alternator cant maintain chargin power, so the car starts to run of the battery, well u said ur battery is out of juice, so thus ur car will shut down, have u treid using another battery? any will do, tak eit out of another car, just connect the + and - and crank the car, let is sit, if it dies right afterwards with a proven good battery(since it ran the other car fine), than its not the charging systems fault the car wont stay on, yes a battery CCA and CC make a diffrence too, i like to say = or greater will be fine to maintain the car, hell i have had both a red top with 800CCA and 1000CA in the car no issues, now i have a yellow top, so yeah thats how u see if its the chargin systems fault

 

also .. like i said check the positive studd on the alternator if it's not makeing good contact you're screwed lol

 

The thing is, it has nothing to do with the alternator.

I'm having flickering on the dash before I even crank the car, before the alternator is even running, and that's with a big battery charger maintaining power to the car.

 

The flickering could be coming from your battery charger, i have seen chargers cause the dash lights to look like they are pulsing. Hopefully the dealer will find out the problem, but i would like to know what the mechanic did with the car. Sounds fishy that it ran before, but not after.
DO NOT disconnect your battery while the car is running to test your alternator. Your car will not run anyhow so you can't but NEVER do that on a computer controlled car. A simple test with a voltmeter will verify if your alternator is operating proplerly. But your alternator has nothing to do withn your problem so don't worry about that...