Today might me the day I have a free second to test female MAF connector at the MAF sensor.

I already tested female MAF connector at the engine harness, it was fine.

 

To make a very long story short, I bought this 06 SS that ended up having a heli coiled spark plug thread insert on cylinder two that blew out. I’ve been dealing with trying to trade it in an lose my dream car, but now I’m at the point where I just have to get a cylinder head or have them put a bigger insert in and use it while it lasts.

my question is, since the 2.0 sc heads are pretty rare it seems, what heads will fit nicely as a replacement with them? I’ve found out the 2.2 heads will work, which would be nice because I have a 2.2 2009 that’s dead (not related to the head). I’m assuming the cams are different obviously, but are the Valves the same? Do they really bolt on and work other than the cam position sensor? I genuinely just need a new head. And my only good option is a new ported zzp head but I’d rather spend 1k than 2.5k for everything. I’ve found 1 sc head and a bunch of 2.2 heads, so it seems that would be more accessible. I’d rather just have an 2.0 head, but if it’ll work I don’t really care at this point. Any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

you may gain more help making your own thread.
but all good if someone else wants to answer here as-well…

things I know; that yes you can make a hybrid motor between an LSJ and a L61 (2.2 non vvt), how this is done, I’m not sure. I’d imagine you’d time your hybrid differently perhaps or at the very least need some tune adjustments.

valves should all be the same size, however I’m pretty sure the LSJ will have used a stronger material.

as for intake manifold, 2.2 will use m6, LSJ head is m8…. You’ll need custom bolts for your intake/supercharger or just the same you’ll have to drill an tap larger threads in the new head.

id try to find a cheaper LSJ head, bring it a machine shop and I’m sure it’ll come out cheaper than a new head.

 

I agree start a new thread you issues. just to help real quick. The 2.0 SC head is really not that rare, you can find them around for sale. Also the 2.2 head might bolt up, but the 2009 2.2 had VVT and that head will not work with the LSJ without modification. I know a guy Josh, he one of the best Ecotec head guys in the community. His shop is CatV Port Worx. You can find him on the facebook. He might have an LSJ head he can sell.

 

So update. Not the maf harness, not the new air filter either..

Discouraged, I went to my Winter/Gas tune applied all exhaust codes, idled and waited.
two codes came up fairly consistently U2125 and U2108. After idling for 15 minutes trims actually looked really really good.

So back to Summer/Meth tune, those codes are still there. Now just waiting to see how trims are, this may deserve a road/ wot test.

 

But then it bags the question why am I still getting communication codes lmfao. At least the number of com codes has been getting smaller and smaller. Have that going for me lol..

 

Fuel trims did improve, +/- 8.
Wot fueling is correct.

I’d like to at this point fill the tank up, collect more data.

I do need to find some conductive anti rust product that I can apply to all my grounds. I find they are rusting way too quickly.

Idk if this is solved just yet though, oh but I will take the progress.

 

Drove it to work, Fueling looked much better still, still slightly off though, Should have brought my laptop
Filled it up, launched it at a red/green light, was really spicy, miss this car haha.

Happy my new emissions delete is working well, no issues there. WOT afr was still on point.
Excited to drive this a little more now!

 

I have a very interesting situation. In summary, my SS I bought had messed up spark plug threads causing an mis fire. I had to take it to Corvallis, Oregon about 40 miles away from where I live. Unfortunately, it’s not covered by my warranty, somehow. And they’re now trying to quote me 3 grand for everything, literally just machining the cylinder head. I’m now forced to go pick it up because I can’t deal with these idiots anymore and would rather do it myself with my friends and atleast see it, I haven’t seen it for almost 2 months and I’ve had it for 3 months 😐

my question is, if I disconnect the cylinder 2 fuel injector so it’s not spraying fuel, is it safe to drive it back to my house on 3 cylinders? There’s no spark plug, no fuel. Just the oiled #2 piston spinning however fast the others are, which probably won’t be very fast at all. I’m just not trying to blow my engine, forcefully need to buy the zzp performance head or ruin my new exhaust. Absolutely any input from past experience or just what you think would be greatly appreciated, I’m going to get it in about 3 hours so, let me know homies

 

Wanna do mine next? Or we can have a car cookout.

 

I charge minimum 28 weeks on delta chassis electrical issues lol

 

So still a little off and not satisfied..
Tightened exhaust manifold gasket, inspected flex pipe it looks brand new still, New V band going on tonight
Wideband tested fine. Narrowbands are a few months old

I think I'd like to try my old map sensor at this point as the values shifted a little after changing it. I remember old map sensor with key off would flicker between 0.1-0.4Hgin, Since replacing it with a new map it's always 0.8Hgin with key off.

Apart from that, ask my tuner his thoughts,
---
In late 2022, early 2023, Canada introduced 10% ethanol into all fuel grades. Some gas stations held out longer than others, I don't think I was affected by this change until early 2023.
Is it possible PRODNS, this change could play large tribute to the odd fuel trims?
I've read ethanol reads lean on widebands

 

At this point the car seems to run fine. Trims are +/- about +/- 8 while driving.
its +/- 5 in park or in gear stationary.
driving on the highway however wideband reads 15-17.

Narrowband switching fine and doesn’t seem to be indicating a lean mixture.
No lean codes present

 

Maybe I should try a new wideband sensor.
while it passed the wet gas rag test, and the controller passed its test, maybe it’s not 100% accurate anymore

i think trim wise it’s pretty good, just why is the wide-band reading lean

 

10% doesn't sound like a large margin, but since you're using a spray inject, you can test by increasing the timing to accommodate by roughly 3% and see if that makes a difference. Technically speaking they would still need to blend the octane to be a minimum of 91/93, but it shouldn't hurt to tune for more ethanol anyways and log the changes.

 

New code today B1517 and u2108 and u2125 (still there)

 

How do your battery terminals connectors look? If you've had water in your trunk at any point, since there's open wires to the battery connector, there could be corrosion there (I had mine cleaned when I got my subwoofer reinstalled).

 

Very clean and terminals are tight. I've cleaned them dozens of times in the last year. For the 20 bucks was gonna try a new battery sensor. Or maybe try a much larger battery I have at home see if the issues persist

 

Removed on star fuse, we’ll see if u2125 still comes back.

 

Did you do this on the device itself? It's in the middle of the rear deck between the speakers.

 

VCIM is already bypassed an unplugged, so now I just removed the fuse in hopes u2125 will go away for good.

 

I spent all night yesterday, cleaned positive battery terminal cable between alternator and starter, then starter to PDC.
Re did a few grounds, moved some inside the car. Cleaned battery terminals once again.

I want to pull the connector off the ABS module for U2108, and I suspect, with my rain trays, any water coming off my hood would land in roughly that area.

I'm also gonna go ahead with a new wideband for peace of mind. One of the gauge's lights are burnt out anyway so there's some justification.

What really throws me off here though is, Fuel trims are negative while cruising indicating it wants to pull fuel, yet, it's already running 15-17 AFR. So which is it, narrow bands think it's a little rich, wideband thinks its very lean.
Header and downpipe are at most 2 years old, flex pipe looks brand new, it's got a new v band clamp. it would make sense if there was a leak in-between the two sensors but NILL!

 

Now it wouldn't explain my com codes, but my worst fear right now is if the timing chain is very worn and that's causing irregular fueling. Car does have 200,000km now, but I do my oil changes every 3 months.

 

After just one day of sitting. Cleaned th post yesterday was dry as a whistle.
**** maybe com codes are a result of water on battery.

i suppose I can remove my spare 4L jug of methanol, drive it for a while and see what happens.

im just dumb founded. It had a lot of water on the negative post. Touched it and it’s harder to tell now in the photos. Almost want to find a pair of organe gloves see if it turns purple when I touch the “water” confirm it’s not battery acid

 

I would check for leaks in the trunk then, but otherwise yeah. I don't remember, but the battery is relatively new yes? You could also take it in for a free test just to confirm the cells are still fine. I've had a DOA, and 1 year after it died before.