My rev limiter was 7200 and I shifted at 7000.

I shall know precisely what my EGT is, because my EGT gauge will tell me

 

Get it fixed, now.

 

Then you were spinning slower on the 2.6

 

The efficient engine VE will make up for a quote a lot. The ability to fill cylinders that much better will even things out a bit. An increase in overall engine speed will help in more areas as well as on the track.

We were able to run 21 degrees on 2.5" pullied stock blower stock engine cars with a 7400 rpm redline on pump on the street.

As far as timing goes, he will be able to run more than a similar stock engine car because the higher redline allows more timing to be added. This is why its bad to measure engine and tuning capability by how much timing can be run at redline, it should be taken into account by how much is added at peak torque where cylinder pressure is highest.

 

The higher the redline doesnt really mean for timing to be added. It will depend on his camshafts and what works best with them. Just cause u have a higher redline you dont just advance timing. That is why u must datalog and dynolog to find how many degrees u need to run to make the most power safely.

Timing should be adjusted by piston position which is about 15 to 20 degrees BTDC not by cylinder pressure. Thats why we have CKPs.

 

Yes, I know how to ignition tune.

However as engine speed increases past best torque, cylinder pressure decreases and as a direct result additional timing can be added. Piston position is only a single factor, engine speed is just as important. All piston position tells you is the amount of timing you are actually running, it doesnt have much to do with timing capabilties of the engine.

Edit: Additional info for those who may be confused...

Ignition timing is dependent on several factors, the two most important are engine speed and airmass when determining dynamic ignition advance. Other are factored in as a base or an adder before or after ignition timing calculations and play a part by themselves.

Higher airmass = higher cylinder pressure
Higher engine speed past best torque = lower cylinder pressure
Torque = cylinder pressure
Timing advance adds cylinder pressure and is also restricted due to detonation by pressure.

Therefor when one person with a 8000 rpm redline says he can tune an engine with 20 degrees of timing at redline and another with a similar engine can run 17 degrees at 7000 rpm it shows why neither is a good comparison.

 

I used to tune mine, to act like it had a distributor. At WOT, it would run the same timing advance from 3000 rpm up to redline. So my race gas tune, ran 25.5 degrees of timing 3000-7200 rpm. I always determined timing, but running as much as possible without any detonation. Usually it was between 15-17 degrees of advance (on pump gas). Race gas timing was determined by what made the most power, which was 25.5 degrees for my car.

P.S. Check out my new license plate!!!!

 

try working the timing curve on my car.... I'm way out of every table right now lol. 19 degrees on 93 octane and 22.35 psi.

 

Yes I know and agree but it just sounded like you meant you can just advance your timing like it wasnt a big deal. Piston position is key. You must know were the piston is by factoring in engine speed at any certain rpm (hence our ckp which gives us engine speed). You can also get around cylinder pressures effects by changing your spark plug gap a little smaller if you do have issues. It is all trial and error. Just be careful for pre-ignition when tuning your advance, it seems to be overlooked. These COP ignition systems dont take as long to saturate like a distributor. The last thing you need is to ignite the AF when the piston is going up still.

 

You UTI graduates are funny

We all know this stuff already, but we didn't pay $24,000 to learn it!

 

ouch.

 

Awful.....The degrees they used to hand out used to be worth it before they stopped handing them out. Luckily I didnt get screwed like most people are getting now.

 

Glad to see **** is STILL in the works haha.

 

Make fun of me thats cool. When your dumb ass says u tune your car like it had a distributor! haha I'm a *******? LOL.

Way to run to many degrees of timing!! haha...

 

Funny how the car was faster when I ran it like that, then when I ramped up the timing. Thats why I did it like that. Trust me, I spent many many hours tuning my car, I've tried just about every timing/fuel combo imaginable.

 

How is your car coming along Cam?

 

Yet you have never dynoed it to prove that it made more power. You have no clue if you made power or not. Dont give me that it felt faster cause you have no idea. Yes pump vs race gas, no **** you would make more power. Also you dont even know how to speed density tune the car. LOL.

 

it does. also provides more torque down low. there is also something that he doesn't know about timing.

 

Hey, calm down little guy. This is a friendly internet convo, you don't need to defend your ego, nobody cares. I love seeing UTI grads get all pissed, its pretty funny, because normal people don't get all defensive so quickly

Realistically I noticed a HUGE difference down low, and I wasn't even expecting anything. Also, I had no reason to SD tune my car, the maf was not maxed out, and there was no reason not to make use of it.

 

Back to the topic, and stop the bickering.

 

Back on topic you say!?!? Back on topic!?!? How this for back on topic!?!?

By the end of today, I will have a fully assembled, cryo frozen, Ecotec short block good for at least 800 hp, sitting at my house

Here is picking up all the stuff from the cryo place.




Now to the machine shop, for the short block assembly/head porting. The head should be completed in 2-3 weeks as quoted by my machinist, 4 weeks if they get super busy.

 

im sitting here at work holding the 1400hp head studs in my hand

 

I demand pictures.

 

why do u always say what ur engine is good for..lol..like ur impressing someone..u'll never make 800 hp so stop throwing it around like its beastly

 

pics of what?