12 Hours Painting Headlights
12 Hours Painting Headlights
Wow, I am basically stoned right now. I have been painting my headlights since 10:30 this morning. This being said, I have passed the 12 hour mark now. I've been painting and sanding and painting and sanding. Basically my first can of Dupli. was defective. The spray nozzle was screwed and I didnt notice until about the 3rd coat. This means that it shot WAY too much paint out and cause puddling. Puddling is a major bitch to fix when you aren't paying attention and let 2 coats dry.
Right now I am on coat 21. I am dead serious. I've sanded the paint MANY times. It is almost perfect now. BTW this Duplicolor Cast Iron Engine Paint kicks serious assssss on the Laser Blue SS S/C. I mocked it up against the car and nearly had an orgasm. If it takes another 12 hours so be it, this is the best friggen mod I could imagine for my Cobalt.
I don't think there is any such thing as automotive caulking. Anyone beg to differ? This being said I picked up some LePage window caulking, it should do the trick I think. It is silicone based and water proof. I figure if it bonds well to glass it should also bond to plastic. If that doesn't work I'm going to be pissed. I spent 4 hours scraping the stock silicone out. Got about 80% of it, so there is a nice channel for the new **** to go in.
So if anyone is awake, lemme know if this caulking will work before it's too late. Also I am going to heat up the shells and lenses in the oven first to get some of the old caulking sticky again, then I am going to bead in the LePage stuff and fuse it all together. Does this sound like the best way? I definately do not want leakage after 12 hours of busting my ***** on this project.
I think painting these headlights adds about $5K to the look of our cars. Oh yea, I used painters tape to keep a small chrome lip on the highs/lows and signals, it's been on for 10 hours, I bet it will suck when I peel it. If this is the case I will simply paint the lips to before I fuse em back together. Holy crap I need about 10 redbulls to keep me going all night on this. I know doing it 100% perfect will be worth it in the end!
Ryan
Right now I am on coat 21. I am dead serious. I've sanded the paint MANY times. It is almost perfect now. BTW this Duplicolor Cast Iron Engine Paint kicks serious assssss on the Laser Blue SS S/C. I mocked it up against the car and nearly had an orgasm. If it takes another 12 hours so be it, this is the best friggen mod I could imagine for my Cobalt.
I don't think there is any such thing as automotive caulking. Anyone beg to differ? This being said I picked up some LePage window caulking, it should do the trick I think. It is silicone based and water proof. I figure if it bonds well to glass it should also bond to plastic. If that doesn't work I'm going to be pissed. I spent 4 hours scraping the stock silicone out. Got about 80% of it, so there is a nice channel for the new **** to go in.
So if anyone is awake, lemme know if this caulking will work before it's too late. Also I am going to heat up the shells and lenses in the oven first to get some of the old caulking sticky again, then I am going to bead in the LePage stuff and fuse it all together. Does this sound like the best way? I definately do not want leakage after 12 hours of busting my ***** on this project.
I think painting these headlights adds about $5K to the look of our cars. Oh yea, I used painters tape to keep a small chrome lip on the highs/lows and signals, it's been on for 10 hours, I bet it will suck when I peel it. If this is the case I will simply paint the lips to before I fuse em back together. Holy crap I need about 10 redbulls to keep me going all night on this. I know doing it 100% perfect will be worth it in the end!
Ryan
Use RTV sealant or a clear silicone if you must.
You didn't try to scrape the stock sealant off did you?
If you've left most of it on, it will reseal nicely once reheated
then you can patch up any spots you're worried about with the new sealant/silicon
You didn't try to scrape the stock sealant off did you?
If you've left most of it on, it will reseal nicely once reheated
then you can patch up any spots you're worried about with the new sealant/silicon
Grrr.. While resealing I got some of that grey crap on the newly painted surface. I found it was nearly impossible to not get a bit of it on every friggen thing within 3 feet! Oh well, its hardly noticeable. I think I will use this as a temp solution and get projectors within a month or so!
Damn I just finished, so I started at 10:30 am and ended at 4:40 am and the job's not even perfect! ****!
Damn I just finished, so I started at 10:30 am and ended at 4:40 am and the job's not even perfect! ****!
I used black engine enamel. Loved it. Just had to reseal them yesterday/today. The cheap silicone they sell at walmart sucks ass. (its some name brand) So I went to home depot and got GE's Silicone II like they use on your house, fully paintable too. Its hopefully going to work so much better than the crap I used first.
Hopefully you dont have any moisture leak in too.
Hopefully you dont have any moisture leak in too.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sl0wbaltSS
2.0L LNF Performance Tech
18
Nov 21, 2018 11:11 PM



