steering wheel hub adapter...which one works?
There are other options besides Powell's hub (NRG and Momo); however, they DO NOT fit right. The spline sizes are close, but not the same and they do not fit properly on the hub. Neither can utilize the clockspring and one will most likely crush it. They are definitely half ass installs and are not recommended. [I could see them on a track car or something though (dirt, circle, etc), but this is a whole other topic].
Joined: 07-21-08
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas NV 702
Well my steering wheel control didn't work anyway. NY cruise control wasn't working since I changed my clutch a long time ago. My stereo control didn't work cause I have aftermarket stereo and didn't want to pay over 100 buck for the adapter. The turning signal works but doesn't turn off after you turn you have to shut it off manually.
Joined: 07-21-08
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas NV 702
Kid locally got screwed over because he had an aftermarket wheel and suffered injuries that should of easily been preventable with proper safety gear.
The NRG does not have a master spline or a tapered seat. The Cobalt does. I would totally be afraid to hammer that on a cobalt column and then hope it stays on there while you drive, or in Foximus case, while racing
I dont care if you buy my hubs or not, they are a PITA to make, with no profit they cost so much to make. The machinist who makes them for me is the only shop in Toronto I know of who can cutinside splines, He is a very good guy and a first class enthusiast ( currently building a retromod 1960's Manx dunebuggy with a 2.4 Ecotec and Porsche Trans with upgraded suspension etc)
Ronnie is now making up a couple of hubs for me, to 70 mm pcd for the NRG q-d. We have looked at this deal many times and it is shocking to us that someone would hammer a splined hub with no master spline onto a column with a master spline. AND no tapered seat.
Thats the last I will say on this subject. Be safe. Stay stock if you cant afford to do it correctly
I dont care if you buy my hubs or not, they are a PITA to make, with no profit they cost so much to make. The machinist who makes them for me is the only shop in Toronto I know of who can cutinside splines, He is a very good guy and a first class enthusiast ( currently building a retromod 1960's Manx dunebuggy with a 2.4 Ecotec and Porsche Trans with upgraded suspension etc)
Ronnie is now making up a couple of hubs for me, to 70 mm pcd for the NRG q-d. We have looked at this deal many times and it is shocking to us that someone would hammer a splined hub with no master spline onto a column with a master spline. AND no tapered seat.
Thats the last I will say on this subject. Be safe. Stay stock if you cant afford to do it correctly
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Jan 25, 2016 at 02:57 PM.
ya no it will not work well for our car. It can bolt on and drive but if you keeping your horn don’t use a nrg hub. The wires for the horn is to tall for the hub to bolt on fully so what it does is it bolt up crooked and when you turn it the blinker and window wiper switch will move up and down and you can hear something either crack or grind on the clock spring. So don’t use a nrg hub.
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