Electrical surges in your stock wiring/electrical? lol or indead your connects may "appear" good but did you clean the grounds or just bolt them on?

 

alright that what I was thinking, I took the positives completely off and put the back on. I will do the same with the negative. If they fails, I will completely take the headlight off when spring arrives, lol, and check each and every wire connection to see if there are any cuts. The light output is great with these things but if I get on the gas I can see a barely visible faint flicker from just the right headlight so it has to be related to a power surging effect or a short.

This also happened to be the same headlight that had the reflector housing disconnected from the adjustor screw. I know its not the light vibrating that I see because the cutoffline doesnt jump or move.

 

Well today the temp dropped below 32 degrees F. and I did not notice any flickering at all from the passenger headlight. Im guessing whatever connection lead is lose or not connected very well has receded or shrunk do to metal contracting and strengthened the connection. Will still be investigating in the spring.

 

Last night on my way home from my girlfriends house, my drivers side light just suddenly quit working. luckily I was about a mile from the house when it happened. I went and checked it a little bit ago to see if a wire had come loose, and wadda ya know, the light worked. what's up with that??? It wasn't raining or nothing so I know it couldn't have got water in it.. why would this have happened?

 

usually when a light goes out on an HID kit for a car that has DRL, it has to do with the power drainage or something to that. Im no expert but the wiring harness that came with the kit is suppose to supply that extra power since it taps right from the battery.

If it happens again, note if you had your foglights on or not (if you have HID fogs), see if you turn them off and then back on if its sparks back to life, turn the car off then back on and see if that fixes it.

If any of those things work than they are drawing more power than the wiring harness is providing OR the wiring harness isnt quite attached to the power source. The standard power coming from the stock wiring harness can get the lights to light BUT they might pop on and off at random.

My GF's did this for a while till I got her the extra wiring harness from DDM.

 

My headlights are on a wiring harness though....

 

i swapped wires and now my drive low beam wont go on should i undo the power connectiond and redo and see if unhooking and rehooking it up will reset it or something. highs work great i can hear it flip and both go higher

 

does anybody (or mike) happen to know the halo size on these?

 

4 months later, I finally got mine installed and working. A bad relay was the only problem.

Mike, thanks for getting the new one to me. Tommy, thanks for the help on the resistors. I couldn't get any power or ground from the marker wires, finally had to just solder the resistor wires to them.

 

I installed the lights last night and took out the DRL fuse out but my the lights still come on when I drive into a tunnel or start the car in the garage.

Anyone know how to disable the light sensor?

So far my lights turn on three times everytime i start the car.
Once when i open the car using the remote (they turn off as soon as I open the car door), once when i put the key into the ignition and turn it right before i turn on the car (the lights turn off when the car is starting) and then once the car is started they come back on. I followed the instructions but I have no idea why the lights are still turning on.

 

youd think you would/could of used a water proof one...

 

What you are describing is the Autolights. Daytime Running Lights and Autolights are 2 different things.

 

Anything is possible for the right price... but people already complain that our prices are higher than competitors.... and THEY don't use a waterproof relay either...

 

Kinda impossible. Also people would complain about the price..not worth it if you just follow the directions they wont have issues

 

I thought the same thing at first. Its actually your regular low beams not drl. Only way to disable them is to add a resistor to the light sensor.

I used a 1000ohm resistor from radio shack for $1.99

 

id pay extra for the water proof relay

 

Mine flicker at start up too

 

Mine don't really "flicker" but do take about 2 seconds to get up to full brightness. I can wait 2 seconds. My DDM fog kit does the same thing. Planning on putting a yellow top in sometime soon.

 

Eh, Im happy with them I had to put some hot glue in the three plastic prongs that hold the projector in-place in the housing because they popped out easily but other than that they are great. Light output is pretty good and cutoff is alright.

 

^More pictures please. I plan on ordering myself a set.

 

when installing these retros do you leave that white/clear peice of plastic on that is sitting around the part you screw in on the base?

 

also the instalation instruction on your website dont work for me anyway you can email me the instalation instructions?

 

Can anyone help me as far as getting the cutoff to look like they do in the pictures on the buyhid website? Is there a side-to-side adjustment? I know I got the up and down but I have two very distinct 'eyebrows' where the cutoff is and I would like to merge them closer together so its closer to looking like one whole cutoff line, rather than two.
Thanks!

 

Theres supposed to be 2. just make them level with each other.

 

I see one screw on top for vertical adjustment but I dont see a screw for the horizontal adjustment. I guess Ill go look again. Maybe the screw is recessed in the housing.