the week is for studying for midterms, but no one studies haha.

i just watched an anti-fracking video and not once did they show an actual fracturing site, just drilling sites. FAIL!

 

So, with the new tune on the car, I have been experiencing some clutch slip, and I've pretty well made up my mind on the GMPP clutch. However, I am undecided on a flywheel... an aluminum flywheel will let me pull harder on the street, but a new stock flywheel will allow for harder launches...

Decisions, decisions. ...

 

I'd advize against an aluminum flywheel, and I have a POS Fidanza flywheel to back it up;
A lightweight flywheel only helps you rev your engine faster - NOTHING MORE.
IIRC lnf's have issues if the ECM figures that it's reving too fast...

why would you buy a new stock one over simply resurfacing your iriginal one (if it needs it)...

 

Because it costs almost as much to have it resurfaced as it does to buy a new one. Who knows how good of a job the machinist did on the refinishing. My trust in machine shops has been greatly reduced by some sketchy cylinder heads that I have gotten back from cleaning and machining.

 

I don't see how a stock flywheel will help you launch harder

 

that's why you just need to know which places aee good, and which are not.
autovalue turns flywheels, but they've wrecked a very rare flywheel on me.

 

i think the mentallity is that the stock flywheel has more meat to it and is built with better metals and composities..... the aluiminum one is just weaker period but yet lighter.... i will be using a stock flywheel myself and a gmpp clutch......

 

I think since the stock flywheel is heavier it adds more inertia to the rotating assembly making it harder to stall.

 

Rotating mass does not equate to a harder launch. I bet it would do the same thing on a hard launch as an aluminum flywheel. Lighter flywheels are for engine reving like Jonathan said. Stock would hold more heat but as for stronger, I'm not sure it is much stronger

 

holding more heat i believe does equate to being stronger tho.... when a aluminum flywheel heats up and warps in which it means it pretty much f***.... where as a stock flywheel holds more heat and is less likely to wrap, which means it could be launched harder before its f***... then again if you want to drop the clutch at 5000 rpm then your asking for tranny problems regardless.... not saying you should launch harder, i dont believe hard launches are the secret as you know jon.... to me the secret is to keep the tires under you.... a slide step will be suffiecent, and use the car's power to get through the gears....


then again i forgot he is lnf, they need to launch a bit harder so they wont get no laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag!!!!! lol

 

It's all in loading up the drivetrain to keep your tranny in one piece. I plan to launch at 7k on my slicks

And I vote for using the stock flywheel

 

smell a built tranny going your way hahahahahah..... crazy *****..... now we know why i put 130 000km on a stock clutch and it still looked new.........

 

That's one of the reasons why I'm not upgrading my axels lol. Rather they be the weak link than my trans. But the stock stuff can actually take a lot of abuse as long as you're smart about how to launch it.

My drag radials killed my stock clutch lol

 

i will continue to sidestep..... lol track times are far from important to me..... as long as its respectable im good....

 

With the mods you're about to install you'll hate it on street tires. Which will put your respectable times down the toilet haha.

 

i am running up sized tires already...... and i may go even bigger yet.....

 

guys;
1) a flywheel will NEVER make you any more power.
2) an aluminum flywheel uses a steel fristion surface.
3) using a lightweight (factory or otherwise) flywheel simply allows your engine to rev a little bit faster.

Dustin, you cannot be running OEM SC cv-shafts... that is impressive, in an almost frightening way...
Just put some LNF cv's in there for added insurance...

 

nobody ever said a flywheel gives more horse.... to me its all about grab.....

 

I am running OEM SC CV's and will continue to. I have spares. Like I said, I'd rather break a cv shaft than a transmission. Look at zrated89. Ran a 12.0@117 with his TVS set up and has done countless passes. All stock drivetrain. How? Loading up the drivetrain before launching.

 

whats reading week?

 

i feel the same man

 

very impressive.

curious tho, what is meant by 'loading up the drive train'?

 

its not the fly wheel that will make u faster.
I have said this many times and stand by it 100%
A great wash and wax will make u twice as fast.
dont waste money on fly wheels, wash wash wash!!!

what u runnin right now?

 

225 45 18's sc came with 215's or 205's iirc..... depending on the wheels i get i may go to a 235 40..... i wish i could stay at 45 but they are already rubbing.... i believe a 235 45 will be just tooooo big.... the best part about the tires i run is the load rate.... stock load rate is 93, these are 95 which means stiffer side wall more responsive in handling feel and less tire bulge....

a good flywheel and clutch will give you more usable torque tho.... which translate into more hp to the ground....

 

Job interview with ConocoPhillips next Wednesday :/