Well when you drive forward the drive train is loaded up because everything is tight and driving you forward.. But then you stop everything slacks up. So when you do a hard launch with that slack in the drive train thats how you're more prone to break something because everything gets shocked and hit hard. When I launch I actually lightly pull the ebrake up and let the clutch out enough so the back end of the car squats a little. So when I dump the clutch the drivetrain has no slack in it.

 

similar to a auto but instead of using the brakes your using the ebrake.... i was wondering too.... myself i use the clutch pedal.... i will raise it to the very point of engagement then slide off as i release into gas.... thus i am reving to about 2500 and punching at full release..... trying to keep the tires under me....

 

Loading up the drivetrain is having the clutch out to the biting point. Some stress already on it so theres not a very big/strong jolt when the clutch is dumped. It's like preloading the converter on an automatic when racing or doing a burnout. Better launch and less initial jolt on the whole drivetrain

 

Yep. Has kept my axles and trans intact so far lol.

 

so in a city infested by lnf's..... is there anyone here who is willing to loan me a sc hub puller?

 

I've always taken the blower off and used a press to get mine off

 

blower is off but press is issue.... i dont have one.....

 

There must be someone in Calgary who does lol

 

Blower, blower, blowher.

 

judging by the silence i dont think so...... this place is filled with lnf guys.... or people who just too much of a ******** to help a guy out or some members are pissed at me for some reason i dont know about..... so i will just get a place to press on the new hub..... it dont matter to me any.... blue i have some questions about this going to a 2.6.... can you read my mods and suggest to me of what else i may need.... im thinking after some reading i have done that meth is almost a have too, to see any benefits..... so i am thinking i would need a header, meth kit and a throttle body spacer.... is there anything else you think i may need....

 

To put the new hub on you can just heat it up and it will slide right on. Any mechanic shop should have a press to take it off. Takes 10 seconds.

As for supporting mods for the 2.6" I would suggest meth. It works well in so many ways. Get a TB spacer. Just pick up a Devilsown stage 1 kit. Cheap. A header you should invest in too yes. Also pick up an oversized tensioner from ZZP and run it with the stage 2 belt for zero belt slip

You don't have to do this but I would suggest ditching the Injen CAI. Staged07SS did some testing with it and it actually flowed less than a stock airbox with the airbox mod.

 

the injen cia does not surprise me at all.... i do have a ebay 2.5 with no flat spot.... however im guessing 3 would be best.....

 

Stock airbox with airbox mod or 3" would be the way to go.

 

infested????

i see way more sc than tc's.......

and im on the road allot.
In fact this morning at work i was following a vic red higrise sc.

Just saying u lnf hater you!!!

 

thanks!!!

mark, i tend to let it out very similar to this

 

I have read the implication elsewhere... just clarifying incase anyone was leaning this way...

"grab"??

the friction surface on both stock and aftermarket is... steel.
so theyboth functionally are identical.

the friction material compound of a clutch disc is what first see's an upgarde, then the pressure exerted by the pressure plate is the next to be upgraded...

 

if I'm understanding you, this is essentially you heating up your clutch, and wearing it out quicker...
Dustin's method avoids premature clutch wear.

 

let me rephrase that for you..... there seems to be a infestation of lnf owners who mod their car.... where as lsj owners dont tend to mod their car.... phhhh lnf's regardless still no one here in this site has a pulley puller....

 

mark, I go to the machine shop (not engine) right behind the Dairy Queen off Glenmore;
I go in, ask if they can press it off, and generally they can do it right then & there...

 

maybe not if done right jonathan.... did you ever see my clutch from the orange car? proof is in the pudding.... 130 000 km + and still looks next to new....

 

if the motor isn't out and the rotating assembly getting balanced= needs stock flywheel. the aluminum flywheels will handle much higher rpms because it weighs significantly less and isn't trying to pull itself apart when spinning that fast. but it needs to be balanced with the crank, pistons, and rods it will be mated with. so with that comes the ability for a higher rev limit. power gains, ehh minimal. because no dyno pull is exactly 100% the same, those little variations will probably keep you from noticing a power increase it's so minute. rev faster, again minimal to no noticable change. the only reason i noticed a change is because of the flywheel, getting rid of the stock water pump, balance shaft delete, ac delete, and going from m62 to turbo. so all i have on my belt is the alternator, and the only thing on my chain is the oil pump and cams.

"an aluminum flywheel will let me pull harder on the street, but a new stock flywheel will allow for harder launches..."

that, idk where you're getting that info from. makes no sense honestly.

 

btw mark. don't use a regular ton-rated press. kills the bearings if you do it wrong. Northstar water pump pulley removal tool. that's the ticket.

 

thank you mark..... btw to run a 2.6 i will shell out at least $1300 maybe a lil bit more.... to do it proper with what i have exsisting..... but that would probally put me somewhere in the top 10 of m62 power on the dyno thread.... is it enough to hand a better then avg. modded lnf their ass i doubt.... but it would make a hell of a race.....

 

if you would like to do that. get some blower cams and springs. and rev it out to 8k and make power all the way up to that.

oh and 225/45 235/40 etc. they're still street tires. what, i forgot who said it, was saying is that even a wider tire won't be great at the track because it's still a street tire. i've ran 235/40s on both my cobalts. street tires bloooooooow. the only thing they're good for are rolls on the highway.

 

yep i already kinda figured that.... thats why slicks are on the market lol..... but as for this moment i think i will collect those parts i need to run a 2.6 and get a 2.7 for now.... lets face it the pulley is the cheapest part of the parts needed.... with a 2.7 i wont need a complete new tune.... but with all that is required with a 2.6 i would..... call it a band aid for now.....