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Lil Blacky’s official TVS build thread(long post)

Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:04 PM
  #276  
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thats how everyone does it now thats a "dual pass"
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:09 PM
  #277  
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if you really want to cool the iat down you should add 100% h20 water injection system like this





ive reduced my iat from over 100 degrees to just over 30 degree c
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:10 PM
  #278  
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i was wondering if anyone has tried an option b with water in the system and ice in the option b
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:11 PM
  #279  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Bliss
its all from the factory.

increased flow by the cooling force is going to cool better. but if you move what needs to be cooled faster then no it doesnt work.

to go with your analogy, with your hand out the window, leave it for 2 seconds, then leave it for 30 seconds. it'll be cooler after 30 seconds. same deal with coolant in a radiator.
It's the rate of heat transfer, not the amount... Leave your hand out the window until it is the same temp as the outdoors... Now what is the rate of transfer? ZERO
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:13 PM
  #280  
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:14 PM
  #281  
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Originally Posted by HGT
It's the rate of heat transfer, not the amount... Leave your hand out the window until it is the same temp as the outdoors... Now what is the rate of transfer? ZERO
who cares.

noone is saying the coolant has to sit in the radiator forever. it just needs to go through slow enough to get cooled.

if it goes through too fast it won't get cooled off, its basic fact. happens on stock engines without thermostats and happens in race cars even with big aluminum radiators and no tstat
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:16 PM
  #282  
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Originally Posted by Ukchilll
if you really want to cool the iat down you should add 100% h20 water injection system like this





ive reduced my iat from over 100 degrees to just over 30 degree c
Or water/methanol. I wonder how even the distribution is to the cylinders injecting in those two locations. I'm injecting right after the supercharger but I also realize that drastically reduces the heat removed via the heat exchanger as I am cooling the air before it flows over the laminova cores. Ideally I would inject after the cores like you are here but I worried about even mixing more than max cooling efficiency.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:21 PM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Bliss
who cares.

noone is saying the coolant has to sit in the radiator forever. it just needs to go through slow enough to get cooled.

if it goes through too fast it won't get cooled off, its basic fact. happens on stock engines without thermostats and happens in race cars even with big aluminum radiators and no tstat
Your violating the laws of thermodynamics. You're comparing different things when you switch to a system that is designed to provide cooling with a level of resistance to allow proper flow. Because with your logic of no t-stat =overheat why when a t-stat fails does it seem to take forever for a car to heat up? The cars overheat because the t-stat is designed for in the fluid dynamics to force the coolant into other passages. Think of a leaky hose, slowly spraying water out the sprayer on the end and water will shot out of leaks, remove the spray and no more water shooting out of leaks. That is literally what you're doing when you remove the t-stat.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:22 PM
  #284  
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Well this went a different direction. Anyways, after we pressure test the manifold and it’s good to go there’s a big chance we are starting the car up tonight. If everything runs good we are taking the car back to my house so we can take the engine harness back out and wrap it up.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:23 PM
  #285  
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Originally Posted by Ukchilll
this is how we are are doing it europe



so in through the middle and then the water separates (and slows down ) cooling the cores as much as possible and then out through the two original pipes we also turn two off the cores around
THAts a dual pass that everyone does. Not as effective as single. Not even close.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:24 PM
  #286  
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there should not be a issue with even distribution as each pair inlet valves per cylinder is open at different times i am confident that the water distributing evenly and you all get good steam cleaning
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:24 PM
  #287  
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Originally Posted by chevygirl2006
Well this went a different direction. Anyways, after we pressure test the manifold and it’s good to go there’s a big chance we are starting the car up tonight. If everything runs good we are taking the car back to my house so we can take the engine harness back out and wrap it up.
Nice.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 03:24 PM
  #288  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Bliss
i was wondering if anyone has tried an option b with water in the system and ice in the option b
I did. Lowered the temps around 10 degrees
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 04:40 PM
  #289  
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
Your violating the laws of thermodynamics. You're comparing different things when you switch to a system that is designed to provide cooling with a level of resistance to allow proper flow. Because with your logic of no t-stat =overheat why when a t-stat fails does it seem to take forever for a car to heat up? The cars overheat because the t-stat is designed for in the fluid dynamics to force the coolant into other passages. Think of a leaky hose, slowly spraying water out the sprayer on the end and water will shot out of leaks, remove the spray and no more water shooting out of leaks. That is literally what you're doing when you remove the t-stat.
it takes the coolant forever to heat up because the tstat is open and not allowing the coolant to sit in the engine and heat up, it keeps cycling coolant through the entire system including the radiator.

i've ran engines with tstats and had them never move the needle even idling and when its very got. i've also ran engines without tstats that overheated idling, or stop and go.

it really just depends on the coolant system.

the tstat either lets the coolant into the radiator or lets it cycle back into the engine
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 04:47 PM
  #290  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Bliss
it takes the coolant forever to heat up because the tstat is open and not allowing the coolant to sit in the engine and heat up, it keeps cycling coolant through the entire system including the radiator.

i've ran engines with tstats and had them never move the needle even idling and when its very got. i've also ran engines without tstats that overheated idling, or stop and go.

it really just depends on the coolant system.

the tstat either lets the coolant into the radiator or lets it cycle back into the engine
Seriously re-read your first line.... the engine is still making as much heat as before you're just moving it away faster and not allowing the fluid to heat up more...

Open t-stat is more flow. So more flow = more cooling...
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 04:53 PM
  #291  
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
Seriously re-read your first line.... the engine is still making as much heat as before you're just moving it away faster and not allowing the fluid to heat up more...

Open t-stat is more flow. So more flow = more cooling...
its really not that hard to understand.

more flow doesn't equal more cooling if the coolant never gets cooled.

by your theory lets just remove the radiator and run the coolant through the engine at 100k gallons per second it'll never get hot....

the bottom line is the coolant has to be in the radiator long enough to cool off. if its not in there long enough to take out more heat than its absorbing in the engine it'll just keep getting hotter and hotter.

obviously if you're not running a tstat and it never heats up driving or sitting or whatever, its losing enough heat without having to sit in the radiator.

ive done and seen it many times.

jeep cherokee. no tstat = overheat. put new tstat in = stays cool. they already have iffy cooling systems anyways

had a turbo integra with a aluminum radiator. ran no tstat for a little bit and it never moved the needle no matter what i did
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 04:57 PM
  #292  
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Sometimes, the coolant is so hot that the thermostat opens all the way, making the engine completely dependent on the radiator to keep its temperature stable. As long as there is enough air flow through the radiator, the engine will stay cool. If for some reason the air flow rate is too low, the radiator won't do its job and the engine may overheat. At this point, if the coolant flow rate is increased, the engine will then transfer more heat to the coolant, which will exacerbate the situation. The thermostat flow restriction helps to increase the pressure in the cooling system, which makes it harder for the coolant to boil in the water pump. However, it does little to help the radiator keep the engine cool.
Question of the Week: Why Does an Engine Cooling System Have a Thermostat, and Hos Does It Relate To the Coolant Flow Rate? | Caltech
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 05:01 PM
  #293  
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You once said it best!

Originally Posted by Johnny Bliss
Really. If you don't have a clue what you're talking about don't respond
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 05:02 PM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by HGT
You once said it best!
everything i said is true.

some engines WILL overheat without thermostats. end of story
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 05:04 PM
  #295  
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https://www.google.com/search?q=engi...out+thermostat
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 05:10 PM
  #296  
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That was never the point of this conversation.... This was.

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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 05:48 PM
  #297  
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Take it to the work chat, or open a new thread. This is a build thread.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 06:46 PM
  #298  
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Are you putting in the tubes this way? You said you are coming in from the left. Normally the blocked end is the inlet.


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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 07:21 PM
  #299  
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I work on a high speed casting machine in a steel mill and we deal with the water stuff everyday. Good discussion and lots of knowledge by HGT.
Alissa I think you should just install an ice machine in the trunk that dumps on a conveyor that moves it to the intake. Problem solved. You all just wish you were as smart as me.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 10:23 PM
  #300  
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Yes that’s how they are going in and lol an ice machine
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