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Put the Sportlines in today. I'm super happy with the ride they provide with the Koni Yellows. I was a little worried I had read on here the Sportlines are "bouncy" I can't say they are like that with the Yellows. Car looks better too.
Love the lower, but not too low, look they give you, but like the ride and handling better on the yyz's. Mine was bouncy a bit front to back when I had my sportlines but that was on stock struts and shocks. I'm guessing the koni's help that with more substantial dampening.
I watched my odometer hit 170,000. This Balt has been in the family since it was at 10,000. Still no mechanical problems other than burning a little bit more oil than it should!
I got my custom shift knob back today from LFU Engineering modified to fit the Cobalt. I originally had them make it for my Z31 but since it is down until further notice I decided I wanted it on the Cobalt. It is made from billet 6AL4V Titanium, it was a $150 piece of stock. None of that "titanium" garbage other knob makers use lol. It is also weighted since titanium is ridiculously light. After weighting weighs 1lb 7oz. Feels so much nicer than the B&M knob. I'm still deciding on whether I want to laser etch it or not.
I have to ask, if you added weight why did you use Ti? Looks?
I love feel and look of the metal. And really because I could, as far as I know I'm the only Z/Cobalt owner with a billet Ti knob lol. Also it's thermal conductivity. Titanium does not like to absorb heat, or shed it once it gets hot. In the summer here in Florida aluminum and stainless knobs get ridiculously hot. The titanium stays quite a bit cooler.
Got my head back from the machine shop today. Happy they were able to open up the exhaust ports so much. This should be a significant improvement. I am excited to get it all back together.
Before I had the exhaust ports machined out they are highly restrictive on the L61. After port job. I think I may go in with a Dremel with a sanding attachment and clean up the mill marks a bit. Either way it should be able to breath a LOT better and let the engine run a little healthier.
Yep, theres a reason we call them fail-pro in the Subaru world. Was just wondering what gasket failed
Yeah I have had my head surface checked out and it is fine. I also torqued the head studs according to the method listed in the performance build book. That really leaves me with nothing to blame but the gasket.
Yep, theres a reason we call them fail-pro in the Subaru world. Was just wondering what gasket failed
same thing we call them in the z31 world. Stock head gaskets and Victor Reinz will do 600+whp, felpro's blow with anything more than 14psi of boost no matter the power
Installed the ZZP mid length header and 3 inch dp today. The header ports left a lot to be desired. Not really finished well at all. Also the Placement of the primary O2 is goofy and is should never be located at a 6 o clock position. I think I am done with purchasing ZZP stuff. Going to look for other venders now.
I was wondering if it was the weld inside the tube... The one on my long tube isn't great, I'm 100% sure they're still a far cry better than stock, and maybe I'm just being overly picky because I'm a welder myself. I'm not questioning the strength of the weld, its just that in a few spots the weld looks cold, and it sticks into the path of the airflow, maybe 1/8th inch. I'm just splitting hairs here...
I just know that when it comes to performance exhaust and air flow you want the smoothest path of travel you can get. When I change my v-band flange I may just take a die grinder to the high spots, call me ****.
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