Drivetrain: How-To: Install B&M Shiftplus
Just watch the backing out then going into D shifts....that might hurt a mount or something, just press on the brake a little harder when you have it on when you shift.
i don't change the lever at all once im in stage II sept to nuetral then off and back on to go back to the off position so haven't ran into this yet. probably wont cause i'll intentionally avoid it.
lol, we have automatics i don't consider it a shifter. we could call it a gear select lever
anyhow im usually in D when i change it to stage II, and i don't remove it from D at any point while its in stage II i avoid this... so i've never heard this clanking noise you all describe when changing from park to reverse to drive etc.. when i want to go back to OFF i change the switch to off, put the car in N and turn the car off then back on...
lol, we have automatics i don't consider it a shifter. we could call it a gear select lever
anyhow im usually in D when i change it to stage II, and i don't remove it from D at any point while its in stage II i avoid this... so i've never heard this clanking noise you all describe when changing from park to reverse to drive etc.. when i want to go back to OFF i change the switch to off, put the car in N and turn the car off then back on...
its your car do what you want, i realize some of you guys have been running it on stage II the whole time, im just more curious as to what type of strain its putting on that line since what this product does is increases the line pressure to make the shifts firmer. and until i get a straight answer from someone that has seen our transmission with one of these used on it... after say 100,000 miles im wondering what the long term affects are if any... yes they say it causes less friction meaning the tranmission will last longer, but what about the line that we are putting more pressure on? may not care to some of you that trade your care off every 2 or 3 years, but i plan to have mine probably 5 or more.
been there done that, had a 03 mazdaspeed protege ended up buying 3 motors and a trans for it.. so done had the whole you only live once idea in my head... im still paying off one of the motors... so don't hand me that bullshit theory... maybe if your able to afford to buy a new motor or trans and still afford your bills too then sure be my guest, im just not going to get caught up in that kinda bullshit again. so pardon me for taking the extra time to think about the consequences and actually try to find a legitimate answer before i run this full time.
this item is only useful on a automatice... and yes same method, however my wires were orange not red like the instructions said.
oh also, i noticed that i get a better chirp or wheel spin whenever i'm in [i] or [L] vs [d]
oh also, i noticed that i get a better chirp or wheel spin whenever i'm in [i] or [L] vs [d]
They changed the wire colors for the newer years.
I still love my B&M - EXCEPT... when I'm going down to my new job. Its on our old main street and its like a little historical kind of main street - paved in bricks - and the street is narrow. Sometimes I'll get to the point where it'll shift and CLUNK shifts.. If I know I'm not going to need it, before I start up the car I make sure B&M is off. Although I ride around in Stage II when I do use it. I amazed my friend who has a stock Cobalt LS. He was sitting at the light with his friend, and I happened to be at the light, but going a different direction. I got the green and floored it from L - peeled out, then not much later down the road, got the tires chirping from 1st to 2nd. He talked to me at work later "Dude, you have manual?" I said "Nope, auto" and he was confused, so I told him about the shift kit. For those still considering this mod, DO IT. Its quite easy and provides a little fun for ya
For anyone interested we have these in stock at www.TurboTechRacing.com


