2.0 LSJ Engine: How to install the "INGALLS Engine Damper" for your Cobalt SS/SC
Originally Posted by ReMz
yeah. i've had mine installed for 24 hours now. I LOVE IT
props on an excellent product Rob. hell, a lot of ppl are failing to mention that it feels like getting a new clutch aswell. the shifts are firmer and more responsive. and that 1-2 "slippage-feel" is greatly lessened.
thanks for helpin us all out
props on an excellent product Rob. hell, a lot of ppl are failing to mention that it feels like getting a new clutch aswell. the shifts are firmer and more responsive. and that 1-2 "slippage-feel" is greatly lessened.
thanks for helpin us all out
yeah I agree not to many people have talked about the shifting benefits related to the product...
Originally Posted by CobaltSSilver
Any vibration, and how bad is the noise?
Originally Posted by knatsabooh
I have it... wheel hop is gone and shifts are tighter. Makes the car sound a little louder and comes with some minor vibrations, but its way better then stock... worth it imo.
I got mine installed last night and test drove it today. So, far Im liking it. Only thing is, with it on it seems the car starts harder and shuts off harder. Im guess since the engine isnt allowed very much movement, it makes things a little more brunt. But, I can live with it. Im planning on new engine mounts anyway.
Originally Posted by Wu9lf
your car looks really nice without the wing, looks very clean.
Originally Posted by MadFish
I got mine installed last night and test drove it today. So, far Im liking it. Only thing is, with it on it seems the car starts harder and shuts off harder. Im guess since the engine isnt allowed very much movement, it makes things a little more brunt. But, I can live with it. Im planning on new engine mounts anyway.
Originally Posted by dcshoes23
Anyone know what size the wrenches are that you use in this step?

Thanks

Thanks
I just installed my Ingalls yesterday and must say it made a significant improvement over wheel hop and makes the shifts much, much stiffer and responsive.
It took me about 45 minutes to get the Ingalls adjusted correctly. As you adjust the preload you must make sure to adjust the overall length and then getting it as parallel as possible is quit e a task. Using one wrench on the preload locknut, one wrench on the length adjustment knob and a screwdriver through the eye to keep it from moving. Making sure everything is as parallel as possible is very important to making the ETD work correctly.
Having said that, I have noticed a bit more vibration at idle but as you drive the vibration is not noticable. There is also a little bit more noise at idle and when driving, but mostly only noticable at idle as well.
Originally Posted by robstamina
If you guys are getting vibrations...
I would suggest using Dynamat extreme on the firewall..it takes out 90% of the vibrations associated with the damper..
I would suggest using Dynamat extreme on the firewall..it takes out 90% of the vibrations associated with the damper..
That's not a bad idea!
I'm not great at cutting, do they have something that is pre-cut for the firewall of the car?
Originally Posted by A_SS_THING_GT'S_WONT
Hey Thanks For The Write Up I Will Be Getting Mine Soon Do U Know How Much The Price Is And Where Exactly Can I Get It Thanks Again.
Rob's a great guy, he will hook you up!
Originally Posted by CobaltSSilver
That's not a bad idea!
I'm not great at cutting, do they have something that is pre-cut for the firewall of the car?
I'm not great at cutting, do they have something that is pre-cut for the firewall of the car?
Originally Posted by CobaltSSilver
That's not a bad idea!
I'm not great at cutting, do they have something that is pre-cut for the firewall of the car?
I'm not great at cutting, do they have something that is pre-cut for the firewall of the car?
Originally Posted by zer0
What is the extra bolt and washer for? I didnt use them when I put it on 20min ago...


Originally Posted by zer0
What is the extra bolt and washer for? I didnt use them when I put it on 20min ago...


That 12mm nut is for the rear motor mount.. the smaller nut allows for more lateral movemnet to ensure the bracket is a straight as possible..You don't have to use it if you installed the old one with the bracket straight..
Originally Posted by ReMz
read the instructions for 5 seconds. i wont give u the pleasure of finding out easily
http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/93040.pdf
Thanks Rob for the quick answer.


