2.0 LSJ Engine: How to install the "INGALLS Engine Damper" for your Cobalt SS/SC
sorry for bringing back a dead horse, but I just put my TB back on, and I had a few questions for those who also installed it.
1.) I love it, it makes my front end feel tight, and all but I have a weird vibration/grinding sound when I turn to the left. Even if you ever so slightly turn to the left you can hear it. I dont remember this the last time I had it on, so IM currious if anyone else experiences this?
I also tried readjusting it. I have the ingalls logo pointed upwards, and have the bolt going through the plate first, then the o-ring, then the torque brace, then the nut. Pretty much exactly whats shown in the pictures above. I also torqued the stock mount bolts down to the GM TQ specs. I have one of those crappy Torque wrenches that have the little needle thing, so it might not be 100% accurate, but its pretty damn close.
I cant figure what i did wrong if anything.
2.) Mine does kinda look off angle though. The picture here shows that the brace is almost perfectly strait and seems to follow exactly the same path as the brackets that hold it.

The above kinda sums it up, just a little exagerated.
3.) the Ingalls directions show the black nut being the thing touching the bracket, but the directions above show the bolt being on the bracket side. which is right, or does it not matter?
http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/93040.pdf
vs
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g220/dmedeiros/16.jpg
1.) I love it, it makes my front end feel tight, and all but I have a weird vibration/grinding sound when I turn to the left. Even if you ever so slightly turn to the left you can hear it. I dont remember this the last time I had it on, so IM currious if anyone else experiences this?
I also tried readjusting it. I have the ingalls logo pointed upwards, and have the bolt going through the plate first, then the o-ring, then the torque brace, then the nut. Pretty much exactly whats shown in the pictures above. I also torqued the stock mount bolts down to the GM TQ specs. I have one of those crappy Torque wrenches that have the little needle thing, so it might not be 100% accurate, but its pretty damn close.
I cant figure what i did wrong if anything.
2.) Mine does kinda look off angle though. The picture here shows that the brace is almost perfectly strait and seems to follow exactly the same path as the brackets that hold it.
The above kinda sums it up, just a little exagerated.
3.) the Ingalls directions show the black nut being the thing touching the bracket, but the directions above show the bolt being on the bracket side. which is right, or does it not matter?
http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/93040.pdf
vs
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g220/dmedeiros/16.jpg
Last edited by Xenozx; Apr 2, 2007 at 01:56 AM.
I know its quite late, but the above directions are WRONG, atleast as far as the direction of the bolt is concerned.
You must put the black nut flush against the bracket. Basically how the directions on Ingalls website say to do it. If you follow this guide above without changing the bolt direction you will have ALOT more vibrations then your suppose too. It appears when put on like above, as your car turns and stresses the TB the black nut rubs against it, or that is the only conclusion I can come up with.
I followed the directions above, and was having weird grinding noises and such. As soon as I swapped the bolts the oposite way, problem gone. I dont know why it makes a difference, but I thought I would share my experience incase anyone else is having similar problems.
You must put the black nut flush against the bracket. Basically how the directions on Ingalls website say to do it. If you follow this guide above without changing the bolt direction you will have ALOT more vibrations then your suppose too. It appears when put on like above, as your car turns and stresses the TB the black nut rubs against it, or that is the only conclusion I can come up with.
I followed the directions above, and was having weird grinding noises and such. As soon as I swapped the bolts the oposite way, problem gone. I dont know why it makes a difference, but I thought I would share my experience incase anyone else is having similar problems.
A 15mm wrench and 17mm wrench.
I just installed my Ingalls yesterday and must say it made a significant improvement over wheel hop and makes the shifts much, much stiffer and responsive.
It took me about 45 minutes to get the Ingalls adjusted correctly. As you adjust the preload you must make sure to adjust the overall length and then getting it as parallel as possible is quit e a task. Using one wrench on the preload locknut, one wrench on the length adjustment knob and a screwdriver through the eye to keep it from moving. Making sure everything is as parallel as possible is very important to making the ETD work correctly.
Having said that, I have noticed a bit more vibration at idle but as you drive the vibration is not noticable. There is also a little bit more noise at idle and when driving, but mostly only noticable at idle as well.
I just installed my Ingalls yesterday and must say it made a significant improvement over wheel hop and makes the shifts much, much stiffer and responsive.
It took me about 45 minutes to get the Ingalls adjusted correctly. As you adjust the preload you must make sure to adjust the overall length and then getting it as parallel as possible is quit e a task. Using one wrench on the preload locknut, one wrench on the length adjustment knob and a screwdriver through the eye to keep it from moving. Making sure everything is as parallel as possible is very important to making the ETD work correctly.
Having said that, I have noticed a bit more vibration at idle but as you drive the vibration is not noticable. There is also a little bit more noise at idle and when driving, but mostly only noticable at idle as well.
Or all of the above?
I dont want to mess it or my car up.
Well installed mine on Saturday.
Took me 1/2 an hour for the mount brcakest and the dampner.
I adjusted it on Sunday over a freinds house and it took half an hour only because I had to come onto this site and this how to for the adjustment of shock/dampner.
All I can say is that he cabin noise is increased but only in 1st and 2nd gear when getting on it.
It took about 90% of the wheel hop and torque steer away which is good but now I get no traction because I'm roasting the tires off with the power being put down to the wheels .
Did anyone else notice the way the car starts now . It feels kinda weird I guess it's becasue the engine is no longer rocking when starting the car.
Took me 1/2 an hour for the mount brcakest and the dampner.
I adjusted it on Sunday over a freinds house and it took half an hour only because I had to come onto this site and this how to for the adjustment of shock/dampner.
All I can say is that he cabin noise is increased but only in 1st and 2nd gear when getting on it.
It took about 90% of the wheel hop and torque steer away which is good but now I get no traction because I'm roasting the tires off with the power being put down to the wheels .
Did anyone else notice the way the car starts now . It feels kinda weird I guess it's becasue the engine is no longer rocking when starting the car.
wow man now you got me all worried lol. I installed mine like in the how to and it looks straight but reading the ingalls directions you make a good point. If you read "note" in step number 3 it talks about swaping the direction of the bolts so i'm not sure if its ok on the cobalt or not. Also look at illustration 3 and 4. They are mounted differently in both pictures. Picture 3 shows the nuts and bolts facing the same direction while in picture four they are opposite.
Hey Xenozx it looks like you have it mounted differently in the pic on the first page compared to this page. Like the oring is in the wrong position in your first pic. That may have something to do with it.
I can believe it if its not mounted correctly
I can believe it if its not mounted correctly
Last edited by EvilleCobalt; Apr 25, 2007 at 11:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
ok how do you know what 12mm and all the sizes is i'm sorry i'm awful at this kinda stuff, do i meaure it with a ruler? i'm confused, it's on my engine all done, but don't know the right adjustment or how to tell if it's right
You should have gotten instructions that tell you how to tighten it.
If not, I know I have seen it around here somewhere.
Well My damper has been making noise for about 1-2 months now. like it's loooose and clunky.
So this weekend I took it apart and found the Black elastomer? damper portion inside had disentegrated into a pile of black dust :-(.
you can see from my pics early in this thread that I had it mounted properly, and it worked great for a loooong time., then the black internal dampener part got shredded. I need to check with the factory to see if I can get another black part to install inside. any of this ever happen to anyone else ??
So this weekend I took it apart and found the Black elastomer? damper portion inside had disentegrated into a pile of black dust :-(.
you can see from my pics early in this thread that I had it mounted properly, and it worked great for a loooong time., then the black internal dampener part got shredded. I need to check with the factory to see if I can get another black part to install inside. any of this ever happen to anyone else ??
old thread but do you need to support the engine before installing this part? Is adjusting the damper easy, do you have to remove it before adjusting it?
bump... just received mine today
bump... just received mine today
Last edited by MacG321; Jul 12, 2007 at 04:57 PM.
An old thread I know, but my questions in the General forum don't seem to be getting answered. I installed the ETD perfectly, brackets are 100% parallel, and then those brackets are 100% parallel to the engine. Both nuts are on the brackets, not on the actual damper directly as Ingalls says in their instructions.
I get insane noise through my cabin, you can hear the engine whine as it revs up and down, its almost louder than the stock SS/SC exhaust. Vibrations are present at idle and throughout 1st, but not a big concern. Also the car starts extremely hard, but thats not a huge concern either seeing as thats a direct byproduct of bracing it in place.
I know some of you say to put dynamat on the firewall and struts, but how the hell can I even get any in there from the engine bay side? Should I dynamat the firewall from inside my car? and then just layer the exposed portions of the struts a few times?
I want to cut down the engine noise mostly. The vibrations are bad, but Ive read that Stage 2 increases your idle revs a bit, and that will hopefully smooth them out for me (the vibs disappear close to 900 rpm, but at 700-750 it shakes the whole car), and the dynamat will take care of the rest.
I love the stiffness of my car now
I can launch so hard my CDs fly out of my H/U storage compartment and hit the back seats, and I can make the wheels chirp or burn shifting all the way into 4th!
Just trying to cut down the drawbacks.
I get insane noise through my cabin, you can hear the engine whine as it revs up and down, its almost louder than the stock SS/SC exhaust. Vibrations are present at idle and throughout 1st, but not a big concern. Also the car starts extremely hard, but thats not a huge concern either seeing as thats a direct byproduct of bracing it in place.
I know some of you say to put dynamat on the firewall and struts, but how the hell can I even get any in there from the engine bay side? Should I dynamat the firewall from inside my car? and then just layer the exposed portions of the struts a few times?
I want to cut down the engine noise mostly. The vibrations are bad, but Ive read that Stage 2 increases your idle revs a bit, and that will hopefully smooth them out for me (the vibs disappear close to 900 rpm, but at 700-750 it shakes the whole car), and the dynamat will take care of the rest.
I love the stiffness of my car now
Just trying to cut down the drawbacks.


