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2.0 LSJ Engine: Return-style fuel system for 2.0 LSJ

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Old 04-10-2008, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Raven SS
well i would have to have mine tapped for an-6 then since thats what all my line and fittings are...good find steve let me know
I am using -6 as well, but the rail comes with -8 and 2 plugs. I figure I can use one of the plugs for it, or put in a bushing to plug in a gauge. The hole was the perfect size to tap for -8. Too big to tap for -6. I am going to get it put together and run the rail plugged at the return end untill I get my pump, so I can verify that it bolts up and doesn't leak. Then when the pump comes in I'll finish the system.
Old 04-10-2008, 12:58 AM
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so u need to tap it for the return?
Old 04-10-2008, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SJSchafer
That's the great thing about opinions. Even the dumb ones get heard.
likewise
Old 04-10-2008, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Witt
Witt, would it be possible to use this layout above with this FPR directly replacing the stocker and a switch to a 1&1 fuel filer?

Basicly, I'm asking if I would need to add anything outside the fuel tank since the FPR would directly replace the stocker. I'd rather keep it as simple as possible.

Also, are those disk style injectors compatable with any of the currently availble injector harness' (stock, which is Multec if I remember right or the minitimer ones) and fit our engine or would I need to get some adapters? I've found 50# and 78# ones, though I'm not sure if they would fit. I would rather something in the 55~60 range, though I think the 78# ones are way to big for my application.
Old 04-10-2008, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by InfinityzeN
Also, are those disk style injectors compatable with any of the currently availble injector harness' (stock, which is Multec if I remember right or the minitimer ones) and fit our engine or would I need to get some adapters? I've found 50# and 78# ones, though I'm not sure if they would fit. I would rather something in the 55~60 range, though I think the 78# ones are way to big for my application.
There are three main types of injectors people are using in ecotecs:

Delphi/Multec - Original Ecotec Harness
Ev1/Minitimer - Most common Aftermarket
Ev6/Uscar -LE5 and '07+ L61

RC makes disc style in all three, but unfortunately, each size tends to differ by type.

The Ford Racing 52 pound (Actually Ford rates at 39# FP instead of 43.5#'s, so they are really ~58 pound injectors) have mutiple spray holes even though they are pintle style. I am looking into finding refurbished and flowmatched sets of these as we speak. I have already found "blue giants" (rated at 39#, but really 42#) that are refurbished and flowmatched to less than 1% for pretty cheap.

EVERYONE working on return-style systems:

Why does everyone want to do a returnless system that still "dead-heads" the fuel rail?!?!??!?

Last edited by shabodah; 04-10-2008 at 10:28 AM.
Old 04-10-2008, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Raven SS
so u need to tap it for the return?
No, both sides of the rail are already tapped and recessed for -8 o-ring fittings. I am just going to screw in the plug on the return side untill I get all my parts in.

Originally Posted by shabodah

Why does everyone want to do a returnless system that still "dead-heads" the fuel rail?!?!??!?

Huh? We are doing return. We already have returnless. Personally, I am doing a passthrough system. Even a system that ends at the injector rail will have the advantage of a rising pressure rate, which will help with keeping the injectors within their linear range.

Last edited by SJSchafer; 04-10-2008 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 04-10-2008, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jgarciarivera
My pump didn't come with a check valve and no its not defective
if its a walbro they all come with check valves. if it didnt have one on it maybe you got a monday pump?
Old 04-10-2008, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SJSchafer
Huh? We are doing return. We already have returnless. Personally, I am doing a passthrough system. Even a system that ends at the injector rail will have the advantage of a rising pressure rate, which will help with keeping the injectors within their linear range.
I'm sorry, I mistyped. I did mean return style (edited above). My point is that having a dead-head style rail is known to cause contamination to get stuck at the very end of the rail and sometimes cause the final injector to fail. Furthermore, fuel pressure is going to drop after the injectors because fuel is leaving the rail, so you should have better response with the FPR after the injectors. A passthrough system seams to be a better setup.

Originally Posted by fast98
if its a walbro they all come with check valves. if it didnt have one on it maybe you got a monday pump?
Everyone I've talked to with similiar setups on ANY vehicle has had this issue with Walbro 255's, so, I don't think they all got monday pumps.
Old 04-10-2008, 10:38 AM
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hm funny mine works fine
Old 04-10-2008, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by shabodah
Everyone I've talked to with similiar setups on ANY vehicle has had this issue with Walbro 255's, so, I don't think they all got monday pumps.
so what are you saying? they installed them wrong? they do come with check valves...
Old 04-10-2008, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by fast98
so what are you saying? they installed them wrong? they do come with check valves...
From what I've heard there are small clearance issues that a little experience can avoid...
Old 04-10-2008, 10:47 AM
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was really no issue when we installed it, we had the car put back together in 15 mins
Old 04-10-2008, 10:54 AM
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No, I think we're missing something obvious.
Old 04-10-2008, 10:58 AM
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maybe but the install was pretty straight forward
Old 04-10-2008, 11:08 AM
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someone go open the hood on a b series honda, or a dsm, and look at how it is set up.

THAT is a return system.
Old 04-10-2008, 11:35 AM
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This will be my system when it is done:



Alternatively, I may run the check valve on the input side of the regulator.

Last edited by SJSchafer; 04-10-2008 at 11:35 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 04-10-2008, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by fast98
if its a walbro they all come with check valves. if it didnt have one on it maybe you got a monday pump?
It's a Walbro, and again no, didn't come with check valve. I hope on Monday I can install the Earl Performance check valve.
Old 04-10-2008, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SJSchafer
This will be my system when it is done:



Alternatively, I may run the check valve on the input side of the regulator.
why arent you putting the check valve on the feed side right after the pump?
Old 04-10-2008, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by fast98
why arent you putting the check valve on the feed side right after the pump?
I was thinking right after the filter, just so you don't have to worry as much about contamination catching in it and holding it open.
Old 04-10-2008, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by shabodah
I was thinking right after the filter, just so you don't have to worry as much about contamination catching in it and holding it open.
sounds like a good plan
Old 04-10-2008, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fast98
why arent you putting the check valve on the feed side right after the pump?
Good question. Not really sure, other than I am a plumber and my gut said to put it there.

Just so everyone who cares knows, stay away from the venom rail unless you like machining stuff! Not only did I have to tap the previously mentioned hole for an -8an plug, but when I went to bolt it up, it hit everywhere. I had to machine a groove where it hit the head, the inlet had to be shortened, retapped and capped and a new inlet had to be drilled and tapped on the top by the #1 injector, because the edge of the rail hit the water neck. What a PITA! I should get it back in the car tomorrow. If it works, I will put the rest of the system together this weekend. Anyone know what fittings I need for the new fuel filter or to connect to the return side of the tank?
Old 04-10-2008, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SJSchafer
Good question. Not really sure, other than I am a plumber and my gut said to put it there.

Just so everyone who cares knows, stay away from the venom rail unless you like machining stuff! Not only did I have to tap the previously mentioned hole for an -8an plug, but when I went to bolt it up, it hit everywhere. I had to machine a groove where it hit the head, the inlet had to be shortened, retapped and capped and a new inlet had to be drilled and tapped on the top by the #1 injector, because the edge of the rail hit the water neck. What a PITA! I should get it back in the car tomorrow. If it works, I will put the rest of the system together this weekend. Anyone know what fittings I need for the new fuel filter or to connect to the return side of the tank?
as long as it doesnt leak i am going 2 do the thing
Old 04-10-2008, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SJSchafer
Good question. Not really sure, other than I am a plumber and my gut said to put it there.

Just so everyone who cares knows, stay away from the venom rail unless you like machining stuff! Not only did I have to tap the previously mentioned hole for an -8an plug, but when I went to bolt it up, it hit everywhere. I had to machine a groove where it hit the head, the inlet had to be shortened, retapped and capped and a new inlet had to be drilled and tapped on the top by the #1 injector, because the edge of the rail hit the water neck. What a PITA! I should get it back in the car tomorrow. If it works, I will put the rest of the system together this weekend. Anyone know what fittings I need for the new fuel filter or to connect to the return side of the tank?
Well unless the regulator is bad fuel shouldnt leak past it, I would put it shortly after the pump. what fuel filter are you using? If I know that I might be able to help with the fittings, and thats the same problem I had with the fuel rail I tried to make, there's just no room by #1
Old 04-11-2008, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by fast98
Well unless the regulator is bad fuel shouldnt leak past it, I would put it shortly after the pump. what fuel filter are you using? If I know that I might be able to help with the fittings, and thats the same problem I had with the fuel rail I tried to make, there's just no room by #1
I just need to know how to connect to the filter and the tank and I'll convert from there to whatever I need. I have a speed shop nearby. I just would like to know what the fittings are, so I don't have to remove the tank and filter to take down there, just to find out they don't have the one fitting I need.
Old 04-11-2008, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by fast98
Well unless the regulator is bad fuel shouldnt leak past it, I would put it shortly after the pump. what fuel filter are you using? If I know that I might be able to help with the fittings, and thats the same problem I had with the fuel rail I tried to make, there's just no room by #1
this is the way to do it so when the car is shut off u have fuel in ur line for the next start up....this is how we do it on the desiels i work on

Originally Posted by SJSchafer
I just need to know how to connect to the filter and the tank and I'll convert from there to whatever I need. I have a speed shop nearby. I just would like to know what the fittings are, so I don't have to remove the tank and filter to take down there, just to find out they don't have the one fitting I need.
this is the style thats needed i just dont know the exact size...

http://www.shopatron.com/product/par....11710.0.0.0.0

Last edited by Raven SS; 04-11-2008 at 12:09 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost


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