They cut the stock connectors so the ones you linked to I am assuming are able to have the wire's soldered/crimped to the connection tabs on the inside of the plug? I would need a male and female. I'd almost rather have the dealer re do it if its still covered under the part warranty.

Right now they are the orange color shrink/butt connector style. I think I'd rather just solder them. I also read that if the maf contacts the metal of the intake at any point, it could also throw the code. Ill throw some electrical tape on any contacting areas.

I am assuming I need to strip back the plastic protector tubing and check out the maf wires too. I've done it before but they seemed fine.

I am going to get up early tomorrow morning to tinker before I leave for work.

 

What I linked to would replace the part that plugs into the sensor. New connector bodies, pins, and weather seals. You can solder if you like, but OEM crimp style connections are generally better for automotive use. Solder can corrode and crack over time due to constant vibration and changing weather. I soldered mine after the dealer failed to install the butt connectors correctly, but I still had problems a year or two down the road. I even used the good kind of heat shrink (the hermetically sealing kind).

This is a bad picture, but this is what the dealer did for me. The connectors had been melted exposing the metal and they were shorting against each other.




The MAF sensor has plastic along the sides, so I don't think it can touch the intake. Do you have a multimeter to check the wiring? A visual inspection won't necessarily be good enough.

 

I forgot to mention one of the most important things. Keep the stock intake on while you're troubleshooting MAF sensor or other airlflow related issues.

A lot of people on this forum will say you can use various intakes without a tune, but you can't. Not if you want your car to run properly.

 

well not various intakes, the only setups known to work 90% of the time with tuning have been ZZP intake tube with K&N panel filter, and the K&N intake.

Thats assuming theres no other issues going on. I say 90% because there were a few who saild filter rotation did absolutely nothing but make fuel trims worse. Many others including myself saw fuel trims improve with the filter being upside down. Does this mean its perfect? no, tuning is the ultimate answer? You want an intake and a warranty still? The previous two intake setups I mentioned are your best bet. (Obviously switching the intake back to stock.)

Hey the mechanic said +/-20% LTFT is normal right?

+5-7% is nothing to worry about, AFR is still where it should be in the long run. I prefer a negative fuel trim though. And I can achieve that by rotating the filter to the 11 - 12 o clock range. Wierd that it happens but it must do with flow across the MAF. I cant explain it elsewise.


Oh and I agree, while your trouble shooting this problem, leave everything stock. While I claim the intake doesnt do too much, it does effect the MAF readings and will give you false impressions probably.



When I gave you all those trouble shooting idea, I made the assumption that everything was working properly, should have known to check the obvious :/ the MAP sensor connections.. Glad you got a new turbo! Alot of us wouldnt have even gotten that out of the dealer.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I really do appreciate it.

I just don't get why the fuel trims would magically go back to where I wanted all along. Ill take the intake off this morning and put the OEM back on and clear the code and see if it happens as well as monitor the trims.

Crap map wiring would only give me cels and false readings right? Not affect the trims I would think.

I do have a multimeter, just need to know what to look for and where/when.

Thanks for the links. Ill be sure to look into those.

 

You'll get a p0101 if your ECM cannot make sense of what both the MAF and MAP is telling it. Often that's a boost leak. Occasionally it's a wiring problem. Pretty sure you know what yours is.

 

your name is Wired, just saying

I don't think bad map or wiring would get horribly high fuel trims.

They would give codes and put car in limp mode.

Oh and remember, you can have pending codes that are CELs

 

Put the oem intake back on and drove it 25miles to work. No cels no problems. Fuel trims went right from 3% at the start to averaging around 15. They still jump up and down from that. I have not reset the trims in weeks so you woukd think they woukd have settled down by now.

So I think my wiring is fine and that it was the intake giving the code.

 

The STFT can vary a lot, + or - 15%

But the LTFT sure as hell should not go from 3% to 15%

I accidently put in 4 gallons of E85 the other day and my LTFT jumped to 15%

So stockish vehicle with same gas should not see a big difference in LTFT.

LTFT only changes ever couple of minutes as needed.

 

okay what gas are you putting in the car?

I never thought about it before... what happens to fuel trims with 87 octane? I figured nothing since the octane rating just refers to the fuels inability to burn easily... I mean I know it burns easily, you know what im trying to say.

I figured the only problem you'd get would be knocking every now and then from missfires and definately loss of power and CELs for missfires.

 

I don't think changing fuel would affect anything, unless one grade had an E blend and another didn't. Still, that would only be a few percent at most.

We might be throwing too many things at him.

I would definitely be leaning towards a sensor or wiring issue at this point. It is possible the dealer has inadvertently created a boost/vacuum leak during the turbo installation though.

 

Definitely not too much. I just really like the help. I'm about ready to see if I can pay for a flight for one of you to come out here lol. I wish I had a hp tuner nearby. I am also about ready to just guy the program myself so I can log with it.

Car did a bucking thing one time between first and second about four miles from work on my way home.

I only use 92 octane chevron gas. It's the highest octane around here. Shell or 76 are 91oct.

I did a graph log with torque on my way home. The LTFT sensors literally refresh each second. Ill see about posting the picture. It's a freaking roller coaster of a graph.

The trims settled to about 16 at cruise, 20 coasting in neutral, and 12-13 under wot. They literally change depending on each mode of driving.

The fact that the trims went to -3 to 7 when I had the intake on makes me think that A) torque might not be lying, and B) maybe there is a leak in the stock intake piping.

I could also install the intake again and start with the filter right side up and just turn it every time I get a problem but I don't think I wanna do that...

 

Tomorrow IIwil try to remember to log ltft. It should not change much at all. Maybe once every minute. Remember it's designed to be a guideline for fueling over a long period of time. The stft changes quickly for quick adjustments. I noticed the same behavior on torque app and dashhawk.

So what sensor or sensors help adjust fuel trims? Upper 02 sensor for sure. What else?

 

A slightly bad O2 sensor was my thought as well.

Or a crappy DIY tune

Or leak on the intake side of the turbo.

 

Here is my graph from logging with torque. Keep in mind that new readings were being made about every second, this graph simplifies it.

 

And here is a screenshot of how I have torque set up.

 

Does Stft Move At All? Maybe Stft And Ltft Switched Places?

If those LTFTS are real, thats crazy. They shouldnt swing more than a few percent at any given moment. Your fuel trim is doing some crazy adjusting. Bad O_2 sensor but I dunno how to test that other than just replace it :/

 

It stayed within 1% over a 12 minute commute and this included a fill up. You get the idea.

 

Short term does move negative and positive and is constantly changing,

 

I would def look into the connections on your map, you LTFT shouldn't look like that. Also the whole if your maf touches metal its gonna die, that's if its plugged in and engergized. I've def lightly hit the side of my k&n intake my maf still reads fine

 

Okay thats pretty normal then. I think you definately at this point have an issue with a sensor. I feel that a code would be thrown from the malfunction of the sensor but in your case, you through a code p0101?? as a result of the reading, not the "reader". Investigate in replacing the O_2 sensor, MAF and look into the wiring of the 3 bar MAP sensors.

The car is pretty much mechanically stout now with a new turbo, no leaks what so ever. Only thing left to really investigate is the few sensors responsible for AFR and fuel trim.

Like you also said before, did the stock intake piping have a leak? A hole or a crack in that black plastic should be obvious I think. It would be after the MAF so down the "accordian" style tube. and cracks or leaks before that sensor would be registered.

 

1panel2nv - I will order those plugs and the crimper so I can rule out the tmap wiring. Thanks for the link.

Next step for me is to check the intake piping before the turbo, however I do not think there is anything wrong with it.

Then I will go ahead and replace those butt connectors with real plugs.

Then I want to test the MAF and the O2 sensor. Does anyone know how to test them with a multimeter or other means?

Umrdyldo - What bluetooth adapter are you using for your torque app? I kind of want to get the same one as you to move towards ruling out my diagnostic equipment as the problem. I put in my own equation off of wikipedia for the LTFT PID and got the same numbers as the preinstalled readout.

 

Newegg.com - Computer Parts, Laptops, Electronics, and More!

 

I'm not sure as far as checking the sensors themselves. It's probably a situation where you could just put in new sensors to see if anything changes. It's not a bad idea to have some spares on hand anyway. MAF sensors aren't too bad on Rockauto. Wideband O2s are a little more expensive I think.

To check the wiring you'd have to get the service manual or find the schematics. You could check for breaks in the wire or short to ground by checking from the pin on the ECM connector to the pin on whatever sensor you're looking at. You could also check for the correct voltages going to them.

 

Ok, plugs ordered.

Now I have a new MAF in cart at rock auto (acdelco). But which o2 sensor do I want? I am assuming its the upstream one that would be needed?