The upstream is correct is should be much more expensive.

 

Its looking like its about a 60 dollar part for the Bosch sensor.

Tried to put the intake on the car after taping around each individual butt connector on the manifold map sensor wiring. I figured I'd try the intake not because I just taped it up, but because I wanted to try with the trims reset (battery disconnected) and with the lobe facing downward instead of upward to see if I could fix the code throwing problem.

The car made the barking noise again with it downward, I put it upward and it made the bark once, and continued to shake, pop out of the exhaust, stumble, and generally run like ****. Trims stayed at 0 for both long term and short term.

Put the stock intake back on and it ran fine, the trims immediately started going up to around 18. Idle is still a little shaky. AFR stayed at 14.7 throughout the whole process.

Next I'll either inspect the lower map wiring or just wait until the plugs arrive. It looks like they cut enough wire off that its going to be a tight fit.

 

Ok, I have the service manual that the mechanic printed out for me. It has a list of steps to check if the long term is above 20 percent. It makes no mention of rapidly changing LTFT. I listed CHECKED next to each item that I know is not an issue.

-----------------------------------------------

Allow the engine to reach operating temperature. with the engine idling, observe the long term FT parameter with a scan tool. The reading should be between 0-20 percent.

If not within the specified range, inspect for the following:

-observe MAF intake reading. Should be between 2-6 g/s at idle CHECKED

-with the ignition ON and the engine OFF, observe the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor parameter. The MAP sensor pressure should be within the range specified for your altitude. Refer to Altitude versus Barometer Pressure. CHECKED

-Vacuum hoses for splits, kinks, and improper connections. CHECKED

-Insufficient fuel in the tank CHECKED

-Low fuel pressure (lowest it will go is 310psi)

-Ethanol concentration greater than 15 percent CHECKED

-Fuel contamination

-Malfunctioning fuel injectors

-Missing, loose, or leaking exhaust components from the HO2S forward

-Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold and throttle. CHECKED with starting fluid

-Vacuum leaks at the charge air bypass valve solenoid, the charge air bypass valve, and the charge air bypass valve vacuum tank CHECKED

-The air induction system and the air intake ducts for leaks or for a missing air filter element. CHECKED

-A cracked EVAP canister

-Evaporative pipes obstructed or leaking

-The crankcase ventilation system for leaks

-The HO2S for improper installation and for electrical wires or connectors that may have suffered corrosion, water intrusion, or contacted the exhaust system.

-Incorrect terminal tension at electrical connectors (what?)

-Loose, corroded or mislocated electrical ground connections

-The HO2S signal circuit open, shorted to ground, or shorted to the low reference circuit.

-Malfunctioning engine components.

 

Opened up both map sensor wiring harnesses and individually taped each connector to make sure they could not short out. I noticed the bottom charge pipe sensor has four wires utilized out of the total four in the plug, while the upper manifold map sensor only has three wires being utilized with a missing fourth stock wire and a fourth plug wire that is cut and unattached to anything. Is this normal?

Bottom

 

That's normal. The lower sensor is a TMAP (temp+manifold absolute pressure), the upper is just a MAP sensor since it doesn't utilize the temperature part of the sensor.

They wired it right, so that's good at least.

If you want to double check the upper wiring it should be: orange/black, empty, gray, light green. This is with the connector facing you with the clip on top, left to right.

 

Here is a log of 25-35mph driving over three miles of my AFR. The spikes were when I was coasting in neutral for a corner or speed bump. Does it look normal?

 

Double post...

 

See if you can find a flatter road and try to hold it dead on a certain speed for a consitant engine load, its hard to tell from afr's what the engine load is and how your ign advance is changing for the load demand

 

Would a scatter point graph of load versus AFR be of use? Or I can just use the cruise control tomorrow on the freeway.

 

That could be more helpful, can you log ign adv as well? The more data you can post up the better.

 

Alright. Ill log as many things as seem important. Could you list some that I should log and how? I.e. two axis or just over time, single speed or vairable, in boost or not etc. Ill try to get a couple done by tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

Same three miles tonight. Cruise controlled the flattest part and it couldn't choose between 30 and 35.

The spike at the end was me going down a steep hill and disengaging cruise control.



Then on the way back I did absolute load to timing. Up hill for the first part of the drive, then flat, then I did a quick 0-30 at the end of the drive.

 

Those graphs don't really mean anything without some other relevant information. You need to be using a scanner that can record more than one parameter at a time to get any value out of it.

 

This is the data I was talking about, have you found someone with hptuners near you?

 

Nope. It's a HP tuner wasteland here. I'm trying to do what I can with what I have...

 

It might be worth throwing up a wanted ad or checking ebay for a standard version of hptuners (assuming you have a laptop with at least an hour of battery life while running programs)

 

My plugs, crimper, maf, and O2 sensor got here yesterday. I'm going to start with the plugs then maf and then O2 if neither works before that.

That crimper tool looks so useful. Wish I woild have had one years ago.

 

solder them and then heat shrink them. Then cover the ends of the heat shrink tube with some weather proofing materiel. I use old school plasti-dip. the paint on kind that's made to insulate tool handles.

 

If you're going to do something like that, then you might as well use a self sealing heat shrink. Like I've said previously though, OEM style crimp connections are better for automotive use.

 

Put in the new plugs today. Took my time and quadruple checked everything before hooking them up. The crimper tool made doing it SOOO nice.

Reset the fuel trims by undoing my negative.

And more fail.

Right back to around 15. However they did not jump around as much since I put the new maf in.

Now i'm down to it being the O2 sensor or needing to replace the MAP sensors. Other than that I have no idea.

Or maybe I will boost leak test it ten more times...

 

Sorry, when I said plugs I meant new map sensor connectors. I did the OEM style crimp with a plug. NOT spark plugs haha.

 

any updates to this? Did the new O_2 sensor change the LTFTs?

 

I read the whole thread finally. I'm local just down in Renton. Have a hard copy of the 09 service books and the GM service manual program on my desktop for 05-09.

I can tell you I'm running stock except for a shortened snorkle and a catless DP, my LTFT holds around +6.5, and on a recent dyno I held 19.5psi (real hot day). Normally though I see 15psi, so if you're GMS1 there is certainly something wrong.

If you wanted to check your calibration I think you can visit https://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web, there you can check your ECU calibration number against what Torque is showing. Not sure if that will actually get you the right numbers though.

If you'd like another look shoot me a PM, been too long since I got my hands dirty under a car.

 

Have not installed it yet. Need to pick up an O2 sensor socket.

New map sensors were supposed to arrive today but have not. Also, I am waiting on a shipped package from a member here that has HPtuners so I can log the car.

 

I would LOVE some local help. Ill send you a pm sometime soon. I'm busy unpacking after taking 20, 12 year olds camping last night for the parks department...