Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

Water pump question

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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 12:18 PM
  #51  
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From: ga
Originally Posted by Sean Cummings
Dont do it to the one you delrilled holes in, do you have the old one still? How you do it is flip it over and cut the two side pieces that hold the spring and plunger to the main body. All you want is the top section so it looks like a big washer with out he guts. Cut the sides in this picture. And I drilled the hole on the outside silver ring not in the center
Have you tried this to see if this makes a diff?
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 08:40 PM
  #52  
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From: Cave City, Ar.
Originally Posted by ECaulk
Try removing the line that goes to the coolant tank, and putting vacuum there. On the LNF that ends up being the point where air comes out unless its trapped behind the T-stat.
That is the reason I drilled the hole in the t-stat to free up any trapped air.
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 08:44 PM
  #53  
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From: Cave City, Ar.
Originally Posted by Sean Cummings
Have you tried this to see if this makes a diff?
No, haven't tried that yet, can't see where that would help me yet, I was driving this morning to work and temp was around 221 running around 60-65 mph, went to 4th same speed, temp drops to 196, seems no or little coolant flow unless I am turning close to 3k rpm's.
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 10:42 PM
  #54  
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From: Cave City, Ar.
I have been reading that there may be a possible restrictor built in the lower coolant hose that forces coolant through the oil cooler, does anyone know anything about this, looks like there would have to be in order for coolant to flow through the oil cooler since both lines T into the lower coolant hose. And a restriction is what I think I have or maybe still air in system.
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 06:03 PM
  #55  
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From: ga
I don't know about that but hope you figure this out soon.
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 05:59 PM
  #56  
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From: Cave City, Ar.
Originally Posted by Sean Cummings
I don't know about that but hope you figure this out soon.
I didn't mean to hijack your thread
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 11:14 PM
  #57  
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From: ga
Not a issue bro, if you get the help you need that is what it is all about
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 05:57 PM
  #58  
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From: butler,pa
Did anyone ever resolve these issues? I'm having same problems 6 gear had. Cant get a reply to PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 08:22 AM
  #59  
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From: Kansas
You're temp is climbing to high and you think there might be air in the system? Let us know what you did prior to these conditions and what the symptoms are.
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 01:06 PM
  #60  
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From: butler,pa
Swapped in a new water pump ( seal failed and was leaking into oil ). Been chasing small leaks here and there. I think I got them all. Maybe a tiny seep at banjo fitting on turbo. I'm keeping an eye on it. Changed thermostat twice, and checked then old one and it was opening ok. Fans are running good, new temp sensor and proper concentration of Dexcool. System will hold pressure, at 15psi it might leak down a pound an hour, which could even be the equipment itself losing pressure, I'm not too worried about that. Used to be I ran a constant 185 temp, and the highest I would see was 195 on the hottest of days. Now its all over the place, 180 all the way up to 218. Seems like on hills is where the temp will creep up. Then as soon as it levels of right back down to 180 something. Heat blows hot, filled coolant thru the radiator hose, squeezed the hose, tried to push it thru the small overflow tube, all that. Interesting enough, lower rad hose is ice cold all the time. I'm thinking it can be either air locked ( Ive never had an issue with this before, swapping engines, rads, thermostats and all in this car ), obstructed radiator ( unlikely but possible) or maybe bad impeller on new water pump ( spinning on shaft maybe? ).
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 01:58 PM
  #61  
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From: Kansas
Bottom rad hose is cold even after extended driving periods? It sounds like you tried burping the air through the small overflow tube like I am displaying in this picture below?

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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 02:50 PM
  #62  
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From: butler,pa
...

At one point I did. I also tried to force air thru the other end of that hose, where it hook up to the overflow bottle thus pressurizing the system and allowing coolant to flow out the end of the hose you have the funnel in into a two liter pop bottle. Did not see any escaping air. Just seems odd if there is an airlocked bubble I never before encountered one until now?
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 03:51 PM
  #63  
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From: Kansas
You have access to a heat gun?
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 07:26 PM
  #64  
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From: butler,pa
Yes do. What are your thoughts? I'm thinking I may pull the water pump and confirm impeller isnt slipping on the shaft. Rare, but does happen
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 08:21 AM
  #65  
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From: Kansas
Originally Posted by cw383
Yes do. What are your thoughts? I'm thinking I may pull the water pump and confirm impeller isn't slipping on the shaft. Rare, but does happen
You an shoot it around and see how hot the block and radiator hoses are getting to see if water is flowing through it. Is your heater blowing strong hot air? If your water pump isn't working I'd assume your heater performance would drop off drastically as there shouldn't be much if any flow through the heater core either.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 09:20 AM
  #66  
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From: butler,pa
Thats an excellent point. A thermal thermometer then? I dont have one, but they are cheap enough. Might try that next. Heater works, but isnt stellar or anything.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 10:17 AM
  #67  
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From: Kansas
Originally Posted by cw383
Thats an excellent point. A thermal thermometer then? I dont have one, but they are cheap enough. Might try that next. Heater works, but isnt stellar or anything.
I'd turn the heater on MAX with outside air setting to test. Heater should blow hot. Of course you should have some idea of how well it worked prior to compare.
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