CCSS3 Tuned - Just got Dyno'd...
This is further complicated by some tunes maxing the boost early on and then the small factory turbo can't keep up in the upper rpm ranges and boost falls off. That is not what's happening in this dyno tho as boost throughout the tune is set to a level the turbo can maintain (22psi).
Zoom notice one thing. It's conservative and his end boost is 20lbs at 6500-6800. And steady boost is 21-22 with no spike. Considering i tuned it and i know what the **** im doing.... Itsca ko4 its gonna die out of breath. He running a peak timing that's 12*-13* lol ...
Last edited by Chevycobaltss3; Feb 10, 2012 at 04:08 PM.
Zoom notice one thing. It's conservative and his end boost is 20lbs at 6500-6800. And steady boost is 21-22 with no spike. Considering i tuned it and i know what the **** im doing.... Itsca ko4 its gonna die out of breath. He running a peak timing that's 12*-13* lol ...
Correcting mundo sir..... Look at what I just posted. In order to krep the power curve he needs to at least have a min of higher timing which he does not. Op also states he has a Catted downpipe. I don't give a rats Ass what any body says. Having any Catted downpipe gives you drawbacks.. he wanted it safe and reliable. And also wanted fuel economy so that is what i gave him..
The question I have is- Why don't most dyno shops plot a boost curve like we do? That would be helpful. Also, the AFR curve is always a tiny little area that you can hardly read. It's hard to tell very much from the data from most dyno shops.
Op stated this... ( I want a conserve reliable tune that has good power but is safe). So i uploaded me easy base file for slow ramp and low timing and tuned it in and he said it was perfect.. so as long as he is happy I am.
That dyno chart is a perfect example of what I am talking about. There is nothing but HP plotted. Where is the torque, or at least rpm so people can figure it out. Where is the afr? Where is the boost? The only thing shown is an STD corrected hp curve meant to show the highest hp number and nothing else. BTW, this isn't meant to say anything negative to you or about your car. It is the dyno shops that irritate me with their lack of ability to provide useful data.
Depends on car.. I can throw 26* on a e blend car if it takes it and I have been able to with this shorthand winter blend.. gasoline I've been able to get 18-19* but I honestly wouldnt recommend doing it.... Matt his Tq isn't there because the shop messed it up. The afr isn't either because I beleive he didn't want to pay extra to see the afr.
Basically everything ccss3 is saying is correct. For the time being I wanted a safe reliable tune as this is my dd that I drive year round everyday all over the place with me working in construction. But at the same time I still wanted decent power. Now I still had the stock bypass valve and factory chargepiping on the car at this point but this weekend I am replacing that with my injen chargepiping and forge bypass valve. I'll eventually be getting another tune looking for a bit more power out of the car. But like james said before, I am happy with where the car is at right now and I am totally confident in my car being completely reliable. Minus how much quicker I seem to have burnt through my tires. This is a very conservative tune.
And in response to the shop and the dyno...I had my friend dyno my car who works at that shop and lives in the apartment right above the shop and we just did it on the weekend after they were already closed. Only paid him 50 bucks for 2 pulls and I just said I wanted to see what kind of power my car was making on my new tune. Im sure that shop is much more in depth and will show what you are talking about on their dyno graphs zooomer. That dyno was done just trying to see the power the car is making with me and just a few friends just hanging out there in the shop. Its one of the best shops in the tri-state to go to (if you have a new camaro or mustang,lol)



