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prometh.com. they do awesome work and have alot of stuff places like devils own dont. And they actually care. The guy will straight up phone you and discuss your setup and exactly what your looking for and make it from there. They dont use metal line ends so no rusting, and they communicate till you are satisfied. Check em out.
Devils Own owns your wallet if you buy their "Brew", I tested it to be 8% methanol content after I found it slushing in cold weather.
Reference this thread https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/adva...46/index2.html, I was supposed to upload this video over last Christmas but got sidetracked because I purchased materials with different densities to invent a no-nonsense way to measure methanol content quickly, where the different materials will float or sink, that's the idea anyway.
A little catch can system update. Well its done but I still gotta do some testing under boost. I installed a boost gauge to crank case via the port on my old oil sperator dipstick oil drain back, and at idle instead of getting positive pressure I now get -1 vac. It holds stead and does not fluctuate. So solved that issue.
Are you using the factory PCV setup, I am just wondering how you can maintain crankcase vacuum. Or is this just at idle? My LE5 build has major blowby, haven't determined if that was the builders fault though (ehem). I custom built a large can, it catches excessive amounts of crap (I removed the factory baffling though), so I had to add a pre-baffle to help drain the crap back into the engine to be cooked again. I also welded a 5/8" barb to the valve cover in addition to using the factory port.
Are you using the factory PCV setup, I am just wondering how you can maintain crankcase vacuum. Or is this just at idle? My LE5 build has major blowby, haven't determined if that was the builders fault though (ehem). I custom built a large can, it catches excessive amounts of crap (I removed the factory baffling though), so I had to add a pre-baffle to help drain the crap back into the engine to be cooked again. I also welded a 5/8" barb to the valve cover in addition to using the factory port.
nope. I made a custom 2 can setup with external pcv valve . works like stock but is external and routed though catch can. It should be in previous pages of the thread. I have yet to twst under driving and boost. Next month when i register car for summer
Here it is on the car, intake mani is a little busy lol. line goes to the bracket with the solenoid, then down to flow meter, then filter and main line.
im a little scared 250psi will break the filter to flow sensor since they are plastic and it hits at 90 degrees. Gonna test it, i may need to support em.
Im also gonna try a set of one step colder plugs, iv been having random knock up top and its on and off depending on temps. See how she does. Different set then i tried on stock turbo. The right ones this time. Lol
The tank filter should be mandatory, but for the people who can't handle it at least all nozzles/jets have built in steel mesh screens. I recently changed out a jet with my Snow kit, there was some jelling funk starting to build up, so I recommend inspecting the jet filters more often than not, maybe even catch your pump starting to fail if it is disintegrating (if that is the failure mode).
Thats a pretty legit meth setup Tom. You must be pushing for some big numbers if your going through all of that. Should solve fueling issues.
472 on the **** dyno at speed factor. First they heat soak it with no fans then when you finally dont spin on the dyno and they use a fan its too late and ur pulling timing cause of intake temps lol . but ya getting it ready for e30 and 500 plus
little issue iv been having for a few years. at idle it will idle and then stumble once in a while and a/f will go lean a bit and trims as well. what you guys think? time to replace that 10 year old fuel pump in the tank or something else?
Ltft is fine. Stft hangs around 0 plus or minus. Then every 15 seconds or so it will half second stumble and trims will goto about 6.then back down. A/f goes to 16.5 to 17 then backback down to 14to 15.
Ltft is fine. Stft hangs around 0 plus or minus. Then every 15 seconds or so it will half second stumble and trims will goto about 6.then back down. A/f goes to 16.5 to 17 then backback down to 14to 15.
Log idle while turning on and off your rear defroster
If its spaced out it could be the additional load from the alternator engagement. I chased a similar event for a bit and then read a comment from cobaltssoverboosting about idle tuning and the need to log various loads (headlights, fog lights, stereo, defroster, AC, windows)
I used to have problems with idle quality of Trifecta tune. Many times it would idle better with AC compressor on. But I would have the same problem (though I know ECU's way different.) It would be sitting there idling fine then all the sudden it was like a flip of a switch and it would go lean (iirc) and stumble around and then recover into a rev-fest where the rpms would rev up and down. It was very annoying and embarrassing at stop lights.
