2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

LNF Rebuild

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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #101  
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From: Baltimore, MD
yeah didn't get as far as i wanted today did a lot of back and forth b/c its been a while since me and my buddies have seen the motor, praying we can get it up and running tomorrow have another person or two coming

ran into some glitches, one being timing and the other being people not understanding the difference between lb/ft & lb/ins

hopefully tomorrow its up in running, the head is bolted to the shortblock just need to time it and attach the accessories and bolt it in the car
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:50 PM
  #102  
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From: Baltimore, MD
Originally Posted by guitarenvy
Are you guys (that blow engines) aftermarket tuned?

I thought these engines were bulletproof to a certain point.
oh people have piston issues stock, the motor didn't blow, just a piston failed but i figured since i had it apart we not just replace everything, there were no signs of detonation really it just look like a piston got stressed
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #103  
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From: Wheh ah we? MA.
Originally Posted by JacBlackSS/TC
oh people have piston issues stock, the motor didn't blow, just a piston failed but i figured since i had it apart we not just replace everything, there were no signs of detonation really it just look like a piston got stressed
Same happened here. Just a bunch of factors that lead up to a failed piston.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:40 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Gremlin85
Same happened here. Just a bunch of factors that lead up to a failed piston.
yeah its the same thing that happens with subarus the pistons are the weak point so they fail eventually stupid cast pistons
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:27 AM
  #105  
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From: Wheh ah we? MA.
Originally Posted by JacBlackSS/TC
yeah its the same thing that happens with subarus the pistons are the weak point so they fail eventually stupid cast pistons
From what I understand, our stock pistons are supposed to be very rugged and are able to withstand a lot. I know that a series of unfortunate events happened to me one night at the track (which were 100% my fault) and it caused thermal overload to piston #3. I see this happening very often which makes me believe that the ruggedness of our pistons might be a little exagerated. They can withstand the excess heat and detonation but only so much - once they get too hot they fail rather quickly.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 07:10 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by Gremlin85
From what I understand, our stock pistons are supposed to be very rugged and are able to withstand a lot. I know that a series of unfortunate events happened to me one night at the track (which were 100% my fault) and it caused thermal overload to piston #3. I see this happening very often which makes me believe that the ruggedness of our pistons might be a little exagerated. They can withstand the excess heat and detonation but only so much - once they get too hot they fail rather quickly.
Exactly. Hypereutectic pistons ARE strong...but become brittle and crack when passed its limits.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:40 PM
  #107  
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From: Kathmandu
Don't hypers last longer than forged when we're talking high mileage, though? Obviously, high mileage isn't a concern for a 450hp 4 cylinder motor, but I thought I heard that somewhere.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:42 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by SSlobalt
Don't hypers last longer than forged when we're talking high mileage, though? Obviously, high mileage isn't a concern for a 450hp 4 cylinder motor, but I thought I heard that somewhere.
Correct, they last longer. Basically, they are a stronger metal than forged, hence the longevity for steet applications. At stock power levels they can hold up forever. Problem is when you start increasing power, raising heat levels, and then introducing KR on top of that. Thats why ppl use forged, cause of their KR resistance. Also, forged deforms, it doesnt crack or break like hypereutectic does....unless its a crazy amount of KR or spraying the juice on a bad tune, in which case, they just melt LOL
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 10:22 PM
  #109  
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From: Kathmandu
Originally Posted by cubaniche
Correct, they last longer. Basically, they are a stronger metal than forged, hence the longevity for steet applications. At stock power levels they can hold up forever. Problem is when you start increasing power, raising heat levels, and then introducing KR on top of that. Thats why ppl use forged, cause of their KR resistance. Also, forged deforms, it doesnt crack or break like hypereutectic does....unless its a crazy amount of KR or spraying the juice on a bad tune, in which case, they just melt LOL
Gotcha. So, the hypers are a harder material, meaning also more brittle.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 07:52 AM
  #110  
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Curious,

Did you notice if the timing chain tensioner was alittle warn out? or a broken guide?
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 08:06 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by CudaJoe
Curious,

Did you notice if the timing chain tensioner was alittle warn out? or a broken guide?
nope not at all, everything seemed to be in pretty decent condition to be honest
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #112  
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From: Wheh ah we? MA.
I was looking but didn't see, how many miles are on your balt?
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 12:58 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by SSlobalt
Gotcha. So, the hypers are a harder material, meaning also more brittle.
LOL EXACTLY

Oversimplification......not my stroung suit
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:11 AM
  #114  
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From: Baltimore, MD
UPDATE:

everything is in the car was up until 3 am but the car has no power and pressure in the clutch pedal urggh
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:14 AM
  #115  
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go back and double check everything. every wire. how did you bleed the clutch?
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:24 AM
  #116  
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From: Wheh ah we? MA.
Originally Posted by conerboner
go back and double check everything. every wire. how did you bleed the clutch?
This.

Make sure your battery is full charged, check all your grounds, check the wires at the starter and make sure you bled the clutch properly.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 01:25 PM
  #117  
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the battery was fully charged plugged it up to a box and it was reading 13 volts or so
going over to check the grounds
going to bleed to clutch as well but found it was a line not hooked up
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #118  
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**** THIS CAR

now i have only 50 psi on all four,
i can't win this **** is getting outta hand
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 06:33 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by JacBlackSS/TC
**** THIS CAR

now i have only 50 psi on all four,
i can't win this **** is getting outta hand
Check your timing.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 06:39 PM
  #120  
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Cylinder 1&4 should be at the tdc when both cams are lined up with the marks on the chain and are at equal inverse angles.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 06:42 PM
  #121  
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i swear it was timed right i will try to upload pics that i have on my phone
but i'm done with it just gonna let my friends dad shop just do it and pay money
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 06:48 PM
  #122  
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Any help or suggestions please
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #123  
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That looks correct unless it jumped time before you put the tensioner in. Theres always the possibility the rings werent gapped correctly or positioned correctly. Your cylinders were deglazed, right?
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 07:03 PM
  #124  
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i was hoping it was wrong to be honest
but yes i believe so the actual shortblock build was done by a local machine shop
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 07:08 PM
  #125  
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oh yeah this is important the car still does not even start it tries to crank over but doesn't actually start so idk
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