Wow, quite a difference in the port size there!

 

BTW nick thanks for giving me the inspiration to update my sig as well

 

Lol *** the old sig because my car looks different than that now. Getting a face lift as this is goin on haha

 

well mine looks the same, just added what is under the hood!

 

Glad you're happy man.
Good luck getting rid of the grin you'll have.
Btw as far as no wot on the new clutch.
No need to be that easy on it. I broke my Gmpp like this :
A few 2-4k rpm drive through town for a bit, gradually going higher. Heat cycles are moth important. Just don't bang gears. Rpm doesn't play as huge of part as many think.
Mixing up where you drive is best. But a couple days worth of different drives is perfect. Some people wait way to long. It's much like when you get new pads, of course you don't want to go out jamming on your brakes, due to glazing, but a few good stops and heat cycles, they work great.

 

i broke my gmpp like this. I didnt, go enjoy the car.

 

Broke it how?

 

Looks great Nick!!!

Guess who's head is next?

 

no I didnt break it, I meant I didnt break it in, I just went and enjoyed it. I am at 450 miles on my gmpp and fresh forged motor and did nothing to break it in. Just drove it to work, drove it to the dyno, dyno'd it, ran it down the highway to 160mph. Just drove it. I dont feel there was really any need to do a break in cycle.

 

I break in engines the same way, you still don't want to glaze the surface before the disc and pressure plate/ flywheel have a good "beding"

 

Lsjion, I heard from an ol great wise man that your break in period is about 5 miles. After that, wot, 1-4 pulls, redline every time
Hahaha I kid I kid, sorta

 

Think ill leave this here lol

 

That looks yummy. Mine isn't shinny like that

 

Just measured my exhaust ports 1.75 x1.0

When you buying 1000s?

 

He asked we order close to the same time with the coupon code. Waitin on you pimp

 

Maybe today gotta call supertech and figure out my opinions with my spring issue
If I need to buy new springs I'm 2 weeks back

 

Mini road block. Seems I have mixed up the cams lol. I kept the cam caps in order though. If anyone can tell me looking at it from the intake side, should cap #10 be in the bottom right? If so then I have them in the right spots.

 

hey nick, check out what made my car die. might be something to keep an eye out on your build... just so you know the symptoms were missfiring and the car was stumbling...

 

Number one starts on the exhaust side, nearest to the timing gears. 6-10 are intake side, starting at gears

 

Hell yeah thanks josh, I have them correct!

 

Any time. Btw if you've got the cams in, it's good to "pre time" them before you out the head on.
Don't forget the copper gasket! Haha
I can't wait to see it finished for ya

 

I got all the studs back on, rockers, cam and cam caps. I put the CPS back on and lined it up best I could, but it was hard to judge. I guess I'll find out if I did it right lol. Also got the stud holes cleaned out, made a MESS. I know I sound like a noob but what do you mean by "pre time"?

 

lay the cam gears on each cam with the head off and get the exhaust cam timing mark to 10 o clockish and the intake at 2 o clockish

that way you dont have to rotate the cams too much and risk a valve contacting the piston

 

Got it

 

Th ex cam will sit closer to 8-9 o clock in the relaxed position, until you pull it to 10 with the chain on