574's TVS mini build
i have replaced tty bolts some 3 times in 6 months. Dont reuse the bolts. This guy can tell you why.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...-bolts-285827/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...-bolts-285827/
it doesn't matter if it was made today, once you yield it, ie...take it to the * specified, thats when they say to replace them... always use new rod bolts, but I've literally never had a problem in the 10+ i've done this way
If you hear anything out of the norm after the build coming from the head park the car. I think you can survive a timing/valve train problem if you catch it in time. Get the revised tensioner while you are in there. I got mine on amazon for 30 bucks. Its such a nicer unit than the lsj one. And it quited my chain noise. The stock one allows slop. The revised one allows for more oil. Search for ecotec tensioner. Its made in Germany and billet.
It can't really be told, but I don't pull the timing cover, use the timing mark on the cover with the pulley, and fish the chain around until I have the right link, lol it's one of those "gotta see it" to understand it things
If you hear anything out of the norm after the build coming from the head park the car. I think you can survive a timing/valve train problem if you catch it in time. Get the revised tensioner while you are in there. I got mine on amazon for 30 bucks. Its such a nicer unit than the lsj one. And it quited my chain noise. The stock one allows slop. Search for ecotec tensioner. Its made in Germany and billet.


Do it right or dont do it all, I am sure you have said this before on the board somewhere.
I had a tty bolt break but when you can see its stretched, there was no wonder it failed, just not in the vavle train. Mine was on the cradle, luckily I went ahead and replaced all the crank cradle bolts before I went further with the build.
Apparently for some people failure is an option.
I had a tty bolt break but when you can see its stretched, there was no wonder it failed, just not in the vavle train. Mine was on the cradle, luckily I went ahead and replaced all the crank cradle bolts before I went further with the build.
Apparently for some people failure is an option.
what I find funny, is there are plenty of tty bolts that people never talk about.
I was once told the cam cap bolts, guide bolts need to be replaced after one time use.
What I find weird, the only place I've seen yield numbers on the cam gears is the build book.
All data and other places I've seen just specify a tq spec.
I was once told the cam cap bolts, guide bolts need to be replaced after one time use.
What I find weird, the only place I've seen yield numbers on the cam gears is the build book.
All data and other places I've seen just specify a tq spec.
what I find funny, is there are plenty of tty bolts that people never talk about.
I was once told the cam cap bolts, guide bolts need to be replaced after one time use.
What I find weird, the only place I've seen yield numbers on the cam gears is the build book.
All data and other places I've seen just specify a tq spec.
I was once told the cam cap bolts, guide bolts need to be replaced after one time use.
What I find weird, the only place I've seen yield numbers on the cam gears is the build book.
All data and other places I've seen just specify a tq spec.
Engine lower half cradle main cap bolts. (20) Outter bolts are NOT tty.
Crank pulley bolt
cam bolts
flywheel bolts (8)
rod cap bolts (8)
head bolts (replaced mine with arp head studs)
Thats it.


