2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

574's TVS mini build

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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:21 PM
  #726  
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i have replaced tty bolts some 3 times in 6 months. Dont reuse the bolts. This guy can tell you why.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...-bolts-285827/
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:22 PM
  #727  
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From: troy oh
I also impact the crank bolt back in, but thats me.
Never had a problem.
Have fun yieldings the crank bolt.
It'll wear you out
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:23 PM
  #728  
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I've read that thread. I see the importance however I think I'll take my chance with 65lbs and loctite because I JUST took it out of the package tonight
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:24 PM
  #729  
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only pussies buy new ones!
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:24 PM
  #730  
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From: troy oh
first and only times I've ever heard of that, makes me wonder.
Also that's an lnf.....
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:25 PM
  #731  
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The only time I have torqued a crank we heald a screw driver in the flywheel. Its gonna be a bitch either way. Josh tell me your timing secret!! lol
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:26 PM
  #732  
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From: troy oh
it doesn't matter if it was made today, once you yield it, ie...take it to the * specified, thats when they say to replace them... always use new rod bolts, but I've literally never had a problem in the 10+ i've done this way
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:26 PM
  #733  
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Nick, you want this all data information?
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:27 PM
  #734  
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If you hear anything out of the norm after the build coming from the head park the car. I think you can survive a timing/valve train problem if you catch it in time. Get the revised tensioner while you are in there. I got mine on amazon for 30 bucks. Its such a nicer unit than the lsj one. And it quited my chain noise. The stock one allows slop. The revised one allows for more oil. Search for ecotec tensioner. Its made in Germany and billet.

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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:28 PM
  #735  
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From: troy oh
It can't really be told, but I don't pull the timing cover, use the timing mark on the cover with the pulley, and fish the chain around until I have the right link, lol it's one of those "gotta see it" to understand it things
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:28 PM
  #736  
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Originally Posted by TStone
Nick, you want this all data information?
Hell yeah hook a brotha up!

And Josh I know once it is used TTY should be thrown away but just the fact I went throught the trouble of ordering new ones, I'm not ordering another just because I fucked up lol
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:29 PM
  #737  
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Originally Posted by c130aviator
If you hear anything out of the norm after the build coming from the head park the car. I think you can survive a timing/valve train problem if you catch it in time. Get the revised tensioner while you are in there. I got mine on amazon for 30 bucks. Its such a nicer unit than the lsj one. And it quited my chain noise. The stock one allows slop. Search for ecotec tensioner. Its made in Germany and billet.

I got a new one from zzp and it is AC DELCO
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:31 PM
  #738  
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That's the correct one nickolai
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:32 PM
  #739  
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From: troy oh
no worries, you need a build book.
Tyler, maybe some time, I could untime mine and do a write up with your picture taking
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #740  
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Originally Posted by TStone
only pussies buy new ones!
Do it right or dont do it all, I am sure you have said this before on the board somewhere.

I had a tty bolt break but when you can see its stretched, there was no wonder it failed, just not in the vavle train. Mine was on the cradle, luckily I went ahead and replaced all the crank cradle bolts before I went further with the build.

Apparently for some people failure is an option.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:34 PM
  #741  
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Originally Posted by 574
I got a new one from zzp and it is AC DELCO
saweet.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:35 PM
  #742  
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Originally Posted by lsjion
no worries, you need a build book.
Tyler, maybe some time, I could untime mine and do a write up with your picture taking
Let's do it on sunday
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:35 PM
  #743  
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From: troy oh
what I find funny, is there are plenty of tty bolts that people never talk about.
I was once told the cam cap bolts, guide bolts need to be replaced after one time use.
What I find weird, the only place I've seen yield numbers on the cam gears is the build book.
All data and other places I've seen just specify a tq spec.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:36 PM
  #744  
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i gotta find it but I got a free build book online somewhere.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:36 PM
  #745  
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Timing - Imgur

I got build book links too..
I got it all dog
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:37 PM
  #746  
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From: troy oh
Originally Posted by TStone
Let's do it on sunday
buy me a valve cover gasket! I need a new one anyway,
But sunday I'll be doing a head gasket for my friend
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:39 PM
  #747  
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Originally Posted by lsjion
what I find funny, is there are plenty of tty bolts that people never talk about.
I was once told the cam cap bolts, guide bolts need to be replaced after one time use.
What I find weird, the only place I've seen yield numbers on the cam gears is the build book.
All data and other places I've seen just specify a tq spec.
i just got done building my engine about a month or so ago. You are right there are too many bolts mislabeled. The ones I found were...

Engine lower half cradle main cap bolts. (20) Outter bolts are NOT tty.
Crank pulley bolt
cam bolts
flywheel bolts (8)
rod cap bolts (8)
head bolts (replaced mine with arp head studs)

Thats it.
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:39 PM
  #748  
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Originally Posted by lsjion
buy me a valve cover gasket! I need a new one anyway,
But sunday I'll be doing a head gasket for my friend
On what? && valve cover gaskets are ******* $50. I have a good spare at the house?
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:39 PM
  #749  
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I put a torque wrench on almost everything. Thats just me doing it out of habit. Cuz i build engines that cost over a million dollars. Lol
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:41 PM
  #750  
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