2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

GM Racing Exhaust Ported Cylinder Head

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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 01:35 PM
  #151  
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how many miles are on your car?
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 01:36 PM
  #152  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by riceburner
how many miles are on your car?
50k it will take me another 6+ years before I even reach 100k
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 01:36 PM
  #153  
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From: West Chicago, IL
oh wow jellysauce over here!
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 01:45 PM
  #154  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by riceburner
oh wow jellysauce over here!
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:11 PM
  #155  
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From: University Place, WA
summer car starting next summer mine will be as well. keep us updated staged
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:18 PM
  #156  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by ThexGovenor
summer car starting next summer mine will be as well. keep us updated staged
Will do buddy!
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:36 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
You are actually correct about this, but the chain is sold separately as well....

If the sprockets look good upon inspection, than it should be fine to just replace the chain. On a higher mileage engine, it's def good to replace everything for sure.

I'm still up in the air about touching my timing chain. The plastic guide is on it's way to my house though.

I will see where I stand with funds once I get building. Just picked up a new car for the wife. I'm not cheaping out, but I have some other things that need to be taken care of being a married man now, lol.
Not much is ever sold on a combo basis when it comes to buying OEM parts. I work at a power sports dealership and get people with motorcycles the odd time just requesting a chain or just sprockets. Typically I see them back in a few months with a trashed chain and sprockets. Not saying you absolutely have to if you chose to go that route, but if you do I would just spend the money on a CED kit and do it all.

It never ends I know lol. That's how I felt when I did my motor build.
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:38 PM
  #158  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Bluelightning
Not much is ever sold on a combo basis when it comes to buying OEM parts. I work at a power sports dealership and get people with motorcycles the odd time just requesting a chain or just sprockets. Typically I see them back in a few months with a trashed chain and sprockets. Not saying you absolutely have to if you chose to go that route, but if you do I would just spend the money on a CED kit and do it all.

It never ends I know lol. That's how I felt when I did my motor build.
I just purchased the timing kit. I said f it. I don't feel like messing with anything after the head install.
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:49 PM
  #159  
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Atta boy haha. Really, the $250 is a good piece of mind. Especially when its a weak point in our motors.
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:50 PM
  #160  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Bluelightning
Atta boy haha. Really, the $250 is a good piece of mind. Especially when its a weak point in our motors.
Agreed!
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 05:35 PM
  #161  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by InfraRedline
+1 on the channel locks and twist trick.
who needs channel locks???

Pulled that bitch right off with my bare hands
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 05:39 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
who needs channel locks???

Pulled that bitch right off with my bare hands
I did too for the upper coolant hose, but the heater core hoses wouldn't come off with the ol grandpa's grip Had to use the channel locks for those and the lower radiator hose. None of those besides the upper are relevant to this thread though lol
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 06:27 PM
  #163  
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From: Port Perry
for hoses use a radiator hose pick and some silicone. It wicks between the nipple and the hose and then it will all come of easily.

If you dont, and twist and yank on the heat core tubes you will be replacing the heater core and that is a seriously stupid job to do. Long and painful.
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 06:46 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
for hoses use a radiator hose pick and some silicone. It wicks between the nipple and the hose and then it will all come of easily.

If you dont, and twist and yank on the heat core tubes you will be replacing the heater core and that is a seriously stupid job to do. Long and painful.
Yeah when they get stuck on there like that, it's easier to cut the hose than risk damaging the heater core. I've split the ends on those hoses a couple times.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 07:12 AM
  #165  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Yeah when they get stuck on there like that, it's easier to cut the hose than risk damaging the heater core. I've split the ends on those hoses a couple times.
I was not messing with anything involving the heater core.

But good info from Powell for sure.

Originally Posted by InfraRedline
I did too for the upper coolant hose, but the heater core hoses wouldn't come off with the ol grandpa's grip Had to use the channel locks for those and the lower radiator hose. None of those besides the upper are relevant to this thread though lol
It was on there pretty good, but it came off nice and clean with a little elbow greese
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 07:56 AM
  #166  
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From: KY
I prefer in between the toes gease
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 08:03 AM
  #167  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
I prefer in between the toes gease
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 12:03 PM
  #168  
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Good info on the heater core lines. Luckily I didn't damage them on either car, but I'll keep that in mind for the future.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 02:26 PM
  #169  
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This has to be my favourite LSJ on here, it's just clean and very well thought out. I appreciate all the time and effort you have put into this car. I remember years back when you found the H62, and all the waiting for the GMR head. This is working out perfect. All the best to you man
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 02:31 PM
  #170  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Disposable-Hero
This has to be my favourite LSJ on here, it's just clean and very well thought out. I appreciate all the time and effort you have put into this car. I remember years back when you found the H62, and all the waiting for the GMR head. This is working out perfect. All the best to you man
Thank you for the kind words man.

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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:15 AM
  #171  
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From: NEPA
The head is off.

I will add some pictures of my progress later on today.

Interesting find:

My GMR head is stamped 04', my stock head is obviously stamped 07'..... there is a pretty noticeable difference in the castings of the rockers.

Wondering if I should retain my 07' rockers for the GMR head? I heard early rockers tend to have issues when using high perf valve springs & cams.

Thoughts?

Last edited by Staged07SS; Nov 21, 2013 at 07:29 AM.
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:26 AM
  #172  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Staged07SS
The head is off.

I will add some pictures of my progress later on today.

Interesting find:

My GMR head is stamped 04', my stock head is obviously stamped 07'..... there is a pretty noticeable difference in the castings of the rockers.

Wondering if I should retain my 07' rockers for the GMR head? I heard early rockers tend to have issues when using high perf valve springs & cams.

Thoughts?
thats an old production head. are the new heads rockers "stretched" around the pivot? cracked? change them. better get supertech 75's to have no issues with installation. good eye!

Last edited by Staged07SS; Nov 21, 2013 at 09:01 AM.
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 07:32 AM
  #173  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
thats an old production head. are the new heads rockers "stretched" around the pivot? cracked? change them. better get supertech 75's to have no issues with installation. good eye!
Yeah, they are stretched. My 07's are not. I'll post a pic later.

I have supertech 75# springs installed in my stock head. I'll be swaping them over to the GMR head, along with my 07' rockers.

Thanks John

Last edited by Staged07SS; Nov 21, 2013 at 09:00 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 02:33 PM
  #174  
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Should have some progress pics up tonight
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 02:38 PM
  #175  
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Yess, this place is dead
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