GM Racing Exhaust Ported Cylinder Head
11-25-2013, 12:59 PM
#201
I will say just from a visual comparison between the stock exhaust ports and the GMR exhaust ports, there is a very noticeable difference.
Compairing the two heads side by side really puts into perspective just how small the stock exhaust ports really are.
Compairing the two heads side by side really puts into perspective just how small the stock exhaust ports really are.
11-25-2013, 03:34 PM
#203
my panties are not in a wad but people think this head is the holy grail of unicorn sprinkles and it is if you want to build a time attack engine for your cobalt but in the real world of performance and hp vs dollar spent it is a poor choice but for a person wanting what jeff wants that's different
& staged post up some pics of the exhaust ports side by side
11-25-2013, 03:37 PM
#204
^that's why we all love mrb
"you can't just bore out a stock block you gotta ram the **** out of it with a hammer until the oil pan falls off its all been done a million times" --something mrb would say
soo how does one take the head off without taking the intake mani out
"you can't just bore out a stock block you gotta ram the **** out of it with a hammer until the oil pan falls off its all been done a million times" --something mrb would say
soo how does one take the head off without taking the intake mani out
11-26-2013, 07:11 AM
#208
Just an fyi to the guys swaping heads, this is a good time to check your t-stat.
My car's original t-stat gasket failed on me 2.5 years ago, so I decided to replace the t-stat again since it is so easy to access with the head off.
Well, wouldnt you know, the 2.5 year old t-stat with only 16k miles on it was starting to take a dump on me. Not so much the t-stat, but the craptastic rubber gasket that is known to tear.
Check your t-stat peeps.
My car's original t-stat gasket failed on me 2.5 years ago, so I decided to replace the t-stat again since it is so easy to access with the head off.
Well, wouldnt you know, the 2.5 year old t-stat with only 16k miles on it was starting to take a dump on me. Not so much the t-stat, but the craptastic rubber gasket that is known to tear.
Check your t-stat peeps.
Last edited by Staged07SS; 11-26-2013 at 07:53 AM.
11-26-2013, 09:25 AM
#211
Just an fyi to the guys swaping heads, this is a good time to check your t-stat.
My car's original t-stat gasket failed on me 2.5 years ago, so I decided to replace the t-stat again since it is so easy to access with the head off.
Well, wouldnt you know, the 2.5 year old t-stat with only 16k miles on it was starting to take a dump on me. Not so much the t-stat, but the craptastic rubber gasket that is known to tear.
Check your t-stat peeps.
My car's original t-stat gasket failed on me 2.5 years ago, so I decided to replace the t-stat again since it is so easy to access with the head off.
Well, wouldnt you know, the 2.5 year old t-stat with only 16k miles on it was starting to take a dump on me. Not so much the t-stat, but the craptastic rubber gasket that is known to tear.
Check your t-stat peeps.
11-26-2013, 09:37 AM
#215
you know I think its time for another rant. BUY A DARN WORKSHOP MANUAL!! Tom@CED has a site dedicated to that. It explains a lot. and provided detailed information.
It seems to me that folks who come on here (not saying its you btw) and say things like "where do i get a GM ported head I dont feel like reading through a kazillion posts on this thread" should be banned.
let the engine cool down, put a drain pan under the car, undo the reservoir cap carefully to release pressure, use a 10 mm wobble socket on a 1/4 drive extension, reach behind the head and undo the t stat bolts, remove t stat and replace.
it takes care; I have never had a t stat gasket go bad but then i make sure the gasket is properly placed, and if I was doing a head change like the OP I would assemble the t stat first.
It seems to me that folks who come on here (not saying its you btw) and say things like "where do i get a GM ported head I dont feel like reading through a kazillion posts on this thread" should be banned.
let the engine cool down, put a drain pan under the car, undo the reservoir cap carefully to release pressure, use a 10 mm wobble socket on a 1/4 drive extension, reach behind the head and undo the t stat bolts, remove t stat and replace.
it takes care; I have never had a t stat gasket go bad but then i make sure the gasket is properly placed, and if I was doing a head change like the OP I would assemble the t stat first.
11-26-2013, 09:49 AM
#216
you know I think its time for another rant. BUY A DARN WORKSHOP MANUAL!! Tom@CED has a site dedicated to that. It explains a lot. and provided detailed information.
It seems to me that folks who come on here (not saying its you btw) and say things like "where do i get a GM ported head I dont feel like reading through a kazillion posts on this thread" should be banned.
let the engine cool down, put a drain pan under the car, undo the reservoir cap carefully to release pressure, use a 10 mm wobble socket on a 1/4 drive extension, reach behind the head and undo the t stat bolts, remove t stat and replace.
it takes care; I have never had a t stat gasket go bad but then i make sure the gasket is properly placed, and if I was doing a head change like the OP I would assemble the t stat first.
It seems to me that folks who come on here (not saying its you btw) and say things like "where do i get a GM ported head I dont feel like reading through a kazillion posts on this thread" should be banned.
let the engine cool down, put a drain pan under the car, undo the reservoir cap carefully to release pressure, use a 10 mm wobble socket on a 1/4 drive extension, reach behind the head and undo the t stat bolts, remove t stat and replace.
it takes care; I have never had a t stat gasket go bad but then i make sure the gasket is properly placed, and if I was doing a head change like the OP I would assemble the t stat first.
Nothing you said applied to me, i just thought a 15 min. How-to from mrb would be helpful to the forum since he finds it easy to do. I dont need the how to b/c my t stat is fine so far(i think)
But thanks for the info if it does break
11-26-2013, 09:56 AM
#217
Well arent u a fancy pants 
If it's not leaking dont worry about it.
I just mentioned this for the guys installing a new head.
With the coolant drained, and the head off, it would be silly not to check/change it.
If it's not leaking dont worry about it.
I just mentioned this for the guys installing a new head.
With the coolant drained, and the head off, it would be silly not to check/change it.
11-26-2013, 06:59 PM
#222
It makes the filling/bleeding process super easy, and down here for me in warm sunny south FL, there's not really any chance of it affecting warm up or anything even if I left the t-stat out completely, so a negligible amount of bypass from a tiny hole certainly will not bother anything.
11-26-2013, 07:15 PM
#223
lol. the easiest way to fill an Ecotec cooling system is to do it by the GM book.
how is that? easy. Remove the top hose at the cylinder head andpour in coolant and fill the radiator. Then fill the reservoir. You can do it reservoir first then top hose if you want. This way the waterpump doesnt have to deal with trying to work without fluid. It cant pump if it doesnt have anything to circulate, and all the folks that cant fill an ecotec without massive air locks either dont have a workshop manual or cant read.
how is that? easy. Remove the top hose at the cylinder head andpour in coolant and fill the radiator. Then fill the reservoir. You can do it reservoir first then top hose if you want. This way the waterpump doesnt have to deal with trying to work without fluid. It cant pump if it doesnt have anything to circulate, and all the folks that cant fill an ecotec without massive air locks either dont have a workshop manual or cant read.
11-26-2013, 07:26 PM
#224
lol. the easiest way to fill an Ecotec cooling system is to do it by the GM book.
how is that? easy. Remove the top hose at the cylinder head andpour in coolant and fill the radiator. Then fill the reservoir. You can do it reservoir first then top hose if you want. This way the waterpump doesnt have to deal with trying to work without fluid. It cant pump if it doesnt have anything to circulate, and all the folks that cant fill an ecotec without massive air locks either dont have a workshop manual or cant read.
how is that? easy. Remove the top hose at the cylinder head andpour in coolant and fill the radiator. Then fill the reservoir. You can do it reservoir first then top hose if you want. This way the waterpump doesnt have to deal with trying to work without fluid. It cant pump if it doesnt have anything to circulate, and all the folks that cant fill an ecotec without massive air locks either dont have a workshop manual or cant read.
I've only had to change one T-stat so far, on Jonathan's car, when the engine was replaced. The J/Y engine had a stuck T-stat, so I swapped it for the one from the engine that decided to toss a rod out of the block. I've yet to have one leak on me though.
11-26-2013, 09:06 PM
#225
lol. the easiest way to fill an Ecotec cooling system is to do it by the GM book.
how is that? easy. Remove the top hose at the cylinder head andpour in coolant and fill the radiator. Then fill the reservoir. You can do it reservoir first then top hose if you want. This way the waterpump doesnt have to deal with trying to work without fluid. It cant pump if it doesnt have anything to circulate, and all the folks that cant fill an ecotec without massive air locks either dont have a workshop manual or cant read.
how is that? easy. Remove the top hose at the cylinder head andpour in coolant and fill the radiator. Then fill the reservoir. You can do it reservoir first then top hose if you want. This way the waterpump doesnt have to deal with trying to work without fluid. It cant pump if it doesnt have anything to circulate, and all the folks that cant fill an ecotec without massive air locks either dont have a workshop manual or cant read.
