GM Racing Exhaust Ported Cylinder Head
11-26-2013, 11:15 PM
#226
Air lift is wat i use.
Works perfict every time never have to add coolant after it dose its job.
Works on the IC system. One time bleeding.
Can't have air pockets if there isn't any air in the first place.
Works perfict every time never have to add coolant after it dose its job.
Works on the IC system. One time bleeding.
Can't have air pockets if there isn't any air in the first place.
11-26-2013, 11:19 PM
#227
lol. the easiest way to fill an Ecotec cooling system is to do it by the GM book.
how is that? easy. Remove the top hose at the cylinder head andpour in coolant and fill the radiator. Then fill the reservoir. You can do it reservoir first then top hose if you want. This way the waterpump doesnt have to deal with trying to work without fluid. It cant pump if it doesnt have anything to circulate, and all the folks that cant fill an ecotec without massive air locks either dont have a workshop manual or cant read.
how is that? easy. Remove the top hose at the cylinder head andpour in coolant and fill the radiator. Then fill the reservoir. You can do it reservoir first then top hose if you want. This way the waterpump doesnt have to deal with trying to work without fluid. It cant pump if it doesnt have anything to circulate, and all the folks that cant fill an ecotec without massive air locks either dont have a workshop manual or cant read.
11-26-2013, 11:42 PM
#228
The ic system stock on a cobalt does not have an air bleed like a conventional cooling system, unless its upgraded to option B. So for the stock lsj system there is no such thing as one time bleeding, the air entrainment from the pump in the system keeps it happening.
whatever
11-27-2013, 12:52 AM
#229
I use it on every Ecotec i work on and never had a problem. My ic system is always full. After using the air lift I've never had to coolant in the 2 years since i built the engine.
11-27-2013, 10:30 AM
#232
Just make sure that when you think the block and head surfaces are clean, clean them one more time lol.
When filling coolant I pretty much follow the same procedure Powell posted, but I like to take the bendy funnel and fill the port in the head where the upper radiator hose goes in as well. Makes it even that much quicker.
When filling coolant I pretty much follow the same procedure Powell posted, but I like to take the bendy funnel and fill the port in the head where the upper radiator hose goes in as well. Makes it even that much quicker.
11-27-2013, 10:36 AM
#233
Just make sure that when you think the block and head surfaces are clean, clean them one more time lol.
When filling coolant I pretty much follow the same procedure Powell posted, but I like to take the bendy funnel and fill the port in the head where the upper radiator hose goes in as well. Makes it even that much quicker.
When filling coolant I pretty much follow the same procedure Powell posted, but I like to take the bendy funnel and fill the port in the head where the upper radiator hose goes in as well. Makes it even that much quicker.
Just checked it again yesterday, and will prob check one more time before the head goes on, lol.
Thanks for the tips about filling the coolant.
11-27-2013, 10:49 AM
#234
After the scotch bright did you use something to clean the surface of the block to get rid of all the dust left behind from the pads? I wiped mine off a few times, then when I thought it was clean I took some brake clean and sprayed it into a clean rag and went over the surface. The rag was pretty dark after a few passes over the block surface. Also, make sure before you fill the oil to pull the drain plug again to let all the coolant out that probably seeped down into the pan when you pulled the head. Could use a quart or so of oil (or old still clean oil) to flush through the system to get any remaining coolant out.
11-27-2013, 10:55 AM
#235
After the scotch bright did you use something to clean the surface of the block to get rid of all the dust left behind from the pads? I wiped mine off a few times, then when I thought it was clean I took some brake clean and sprayed it into a clean rag and went over the surface. The rag was pretty dark after a few passes over the block surface. Also, make sure before you fill the oil to pull the drain plug again to let all the coolant out that probably seeped down into the pan when you pulled the head. Could use a quart or so of oil (or old still clean oil) to flush through the system to get any remaining coolant out.
I'm going to check the oil level (will drain some out like you mention), add to it, and once I get her timed start her to make sure all is ok.
Then I'll completely drain the oil and add new oil and a filter.
Last edited by Staged07SS; 11-27-2013 at 12:49 PM.
11-27-2013, 05:25 PM
#237
Yup, wiped it down with throttle body cleaner (multiple times). I'm very ****.
I'm going to check the oil level (will drain some out like you mention), add to it, and once I get her timed start her to make sure all is ok.
Then I'll completely drain the oil and add new oil and a filter.
I'm going to check the oil level (will drain some out like you mention), add to it, and once I get her timed start her to make sure all is ok.
Then I'll completely drain the oil and add new oil and a filter.
DRAIN ALL THE OIL ALL OF IT. ALL. OF. IT.
ITS GOT COOLANT IN IT.
got it?
ya.
good
11-29-2013, 04:37 PM
#243
12-02-2013, 09:51 PM
#249
I have a youtube account, but haven't been on it in years. I'll have to see if I can remember the password.
On a good note.... The car is all timed up. All that's left to do is change the oil, install the exhaust manifold & blower, and add coolant.
On a good note.... The car is all timed up. All that's left to do is change the oil, install the exhaust manifold & blower, and add coolant.
Last edited by Staged07SS; 12-03-2013 at 07:19 AM.
