Air lift is wat i use.
Works perfict every time never have to add coolant after it dose its job.
Works on the IC system. One time bleeding.

Can't have air pockets if there isn't any air in the first place.

 

That's the way I have always done it, and never had any problems trying to remove air pockets afterwards

 

AIRLIFT doesnt always work well with an ecotec. We use that very useful tool here a lot. But ecotec has an issue and its where the waterpump is located, and the capacity of the air lift tool. if there is not enough capacity in the air lift tool then its an issue as attempting to renew the vacuum with coolant in the system doesnt work.

The ic system stock on a cobalt does not have an air bleed like a conventional cooling system, unless its upgraded to option B. So for the stock lsj system there is no such thing as one time bleeding, the air entrainment from the pump in the system keeps it happening.

whatever

 

I use it on every Ecotec i work on and never had a problem. My ic system is always full. After using the air lift I've never had to coolant in the 2 years since i built the engine.

 

Getting out of work early today for the Holiday.

I will be using that free time to swap the cams and springs from my stock head to the GMR, and hopefully have her bolted on by today.

 

Yay!

 

Just make sure that when you think the block and head surfaces are clean, clean them one more time lol.

When filling coolant I pretty much follow the same procedure Powell posted, but I like to take the bendy funnel and fill the port in the head where the upper radiator hose goes in as well. Makes it even that much quicker.

 

I cleaned the hell out of the block. Went over it 5 times (scotch brite pads ftw). The head is brand new & spotless.

Just checked it again yesterday, and will prob check one more time before the head goes on, lol.

Thanks for the tips about filling the coolant.

 

After the scotch bright did you use something to clean the surface of the block to get rid of all the dust left behind from the pads? I wiped mine off a few times, then when I thought it was clean I took some brake clean and sprayed it into a clean rag and went over the surface. The rag was pretty dark after a few passes over the block surface. Also, make sure before you fill the oil to pull the drain plug again to let all the coolant out that probably seeped down into the pan when you pulled the head. Could use a quart or so of oil (or old still clean oil) to flush through the system to get any remaining coolant out.

 

Yup, wiped it down with throttle body cleaner (multiple times). I'm very ****.

I'm going to check the oil level (will drain some out like you mention), add to it, and once I get her timed start her to make sure all is ok.

Then I'll completely drain the oil and add new oil and a filter.

 

**** the level just drain it and be done

 

DRAIN ALL THE OIL ALL OF IT. ALL. OF. IT.

ITS GOT COOLANT IN IT.

got it?
ya.
good

 

watch out the master of all things has spoken lol

 

lmfao

 

Updates staged?

 

hes too busy looking at the final product and fapping. Hell I would...

 

If he faps too much he'll go blind and won't be able to finish the head swap

 

Or his hairy palms will prevent him from tightening the bolts to spec and possibly damaging the head. Damn we need to call in the local pd for a wellness check!

 

Head is on, bolted to spec. Cams, valve springs, and followers all installed. Fuel rail is bolted on, timing her today.

Calm yourself

 

yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

 

I expect that you can at least get us some idle videos of it this time around?

 

We shall see. I have videos of it, but they are only on FB.

 

Create youtube account, or photobucket

 

I have a youtube account, but haven't been on it in years. I'll have to see if I can remember the password.

On a good note.... The car is all timed up. All that's left to do is change the oil, install the exhaust manifold & blower, and add coolant.

 

So.... You done yet?