*hijacking thread*

That is starting to sound alot like ricer excuses.
The Geo didn't originally come with a four cyl did it ?(I'm not really sure), but my car will run on the same engine it came with. As for certain mods go, they were required simply to hold the power levels the LSJ will produce. I have/am doing many things simply out of necessity. If I chose to just do the race prepped auto transmission, that alone would have been more than the original cost of the car.
As for the car ever being completed, I have no arguement there.

*ending hijack*

 

I know he asked what car ran that time but besides that I think most of us dont care about ur stang.

I'd like to see ur mustang take a turn at high speed, run a road course, look good, get 30mpg, connect to an ipod, pretty much anything cept drive fast in a straight line and smoke tires.

you said you own a cobalt so talk about ur cobalt not ur stang.

 

someday man, hopefully soon it shall be done and smoking vipers.... btw I need vids

 

i wanna run down the 1/4 mile track and see wat times i pull off, then fall to the floor and die, oh ya, cobalts.......

 

Actually i think your right...it was on the factory 1.0L 3 cylinder from the storm rsi iirc

BTW gm 4t56hd-e built for the 1400hp cobalts is 5500 usd last time i checked. Part number is in the build book along with the motor mounts and adapter plated needed. Designed for 1400hp for a weekend. Also intense and zzp do builds for 800+hp. And gm sells all the adapters.

You COULD have kept it fwd...hell it would have been cheaper

 

also is 11.9 in mustang world pretty slow ?

 

Well ****, if were going to argue here and this thread has become usless, then fine. If I had a 347ci stroker motor and all the mods to boot, then I'm pretty damn sure my Cobalt would be faster. Unfortunately it only has 122ci which is almost a third of what you have. I have torn the nuts off a couple modded local Fox bodies and they were on 10.5 slicks too. By the way, what is your definition of fast? I mean seriously your comparing a damn drag car to a street car for the most part. Obviously my FWD without slicks isn't going to cut the same 60' time as your RWD car with slicks!

Now back to the pertinent info in this thread. I just did a quick datalog on my way to lunch. The normal IAT2's were at 126* and at ~7000rpms and 20-22psi it was only at 163*! This is without methanol injection too! Not bad on a 97 degree humid ass day if I do say so myself! Oh and just to let all the nay sayers on efficency know, the car is running 23* of timing without methanol injection and I get 0 knock! Let's see your M62 do that!

 

when will it be tuned?

 

thats dam impressive
im around those temps with my water injection lol

 

awsome

 

i did 27* without water injection on a 2.8.



a couple cars i have tuned have gotten away with 23* with zero knock.

it call comes down to the tuner.

 

My car has a full 10 pt roll cage, more suspenion parts than I'm going to list, sticky 255 40 R17's, it handles GREAT. Many would agree my car looks great, especially with my hood and exterior add ons. 30 mpg, LOL, not gonna happen. But no decent running cobalt is going to get that kinda mileage either. My cd player has an auxillary input, i can plug an ipod right in, thats not exactly a really high end feature there.

Check the 60' again, I don't smoke the tires. And my car is not a drag car, I drive it all the time, and I drive it to and from the track.

I will agree though, this isnt the place to talk about my mustang. My mustang thats faster than every car on this board, (bwahahahaha).

ok im done, seriously.

 

damn, must be nice.

so why are you here bragging about it, thers a reason why they call mustangs tampons

 

Master Shake, my Cobalt with the 2.6" pulley setup I just took off did 38mpg at 80mph last month on my drive to North Carolina.

Area47, I'm not trying to be an ass here, but you can away with a hell of a lot more when your only running 16-17psi.

 

handles good? ya maybe for a mustang And some ppl like the way a Pontiac Aztec looks.....anyways.

The point is to stay on topic and not start a mustang vs cobalt argument in the middle of the thread.

 

I just went to all 3 websites and could find none of what you mentioned in the bolded quote. If someone can't find these parts, even when searching, it is really hard to buy.

 

i think you just need to know all the part #s and then call gmpartsdirect

 

lol
i know man, im just givin ya ****, thats all

 

I looked there too.
The other important thing to remember, I don't/didn't want an auto transmission.

 

To find intense and zzp trannies u have to go under grand prix

2 minutes of searching:

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer...L61-Build-Book

Part numbers and ecotec to 4t65 adapter under the 4t65hd racing part...also has standalone tranny controller

For 4t65hd into an cobalt engine bay (gm special mounts) go to the Phase 5 cobalt section page 120 part numbers are there

See easy to find with part numbers and contact info. Also not nearly as hard to buy as parts that are custom made and don't exist

I know before you said RWD was because u couldnt find strong enough components...did you really look hard enough?

Now you decide to mention you wanted teh manual...quaife gearset + custom input/output shafts is still cheaper then backhalfing your car

 

this thread makes me hate mustangs even more than i do now. i see them all the time and don't understand why everyone is so ga-ga over them. i, for one, am extremely excited about the twinscrew and have been keeping a close eye on it. i really think the numbers are there, and when looking at price vs. tearing down the motor and completely building a race block and puting $k's into it, i like this setup even more.

 

Theres a member named GardellaRacing...his Cobalt might be a good run for you.

 

you guys just hate mustangs because they are usually faster than supercharged cobalts.

 

do not loop all of us into this "we hate mustangs" group that you think we all fall into.

 

I found one place to do the custom input/output shafts/ gears (Quaife was not out then and those gears are not meant for crazy hp) and they were $10,000US plus import fees/taxes etc. Add to those costs the cost of switching over to the complete Phase5 style suspension + traction mods and is it more?
In the cost of the conversion is also the NHRA approved chassis which would have still been needed with my intended power levels. You will see that by the time you add everything up my cost isn't really that much more.
I did a lot of home work before making the decision to go rwd. A decision that was not made lightly.

Touche`
Even my car won't come close to Gardella's.