mj rocking the white glove lol

 

Thanks.

From how i see it:

Take off flywheel
Take off oil pan
Undo crank cap bolts
take off crank caps
Take out crank?

Get keyway cut to end of shaft
Replace crank cap and flyweel bolts
Replace oil pan gasket

Do i need to check any clearances? Profit?

 

I would check the condition of your crank bearings and replace if necessary, they are only like $30 a set from CED

 

well the bearings are attached and then machined at the factory are they not? i will certainly inspect and clean my existing ones but will not replace unless i feel like sending the block to the machine shop - which i certainly do not!

anyway i talked to blkwdoss thanks. he sent me in the right direction.

i gotta pull the crank and its 70 at the machine shop to take the keyway to the end of the shaft. YOLO

 

you do not need to send the block to the machine shop for bearing removal they slide right out with no special tools needed just pay attention to the bearings as there is a top and bottom bearing and use plenty of assembly lube and look in the build book if your still clueless

 

Its only going to the machine shop for the keyway cut

But to remove it is all im curious about(build book not handy)

Im guessing the crank is held in the same way the cams are pretty much. Am i correct?

 

Got a new wideband kit from ott for his big sale. Thanks josh!

 

Used these AEM Digital gauges in my first SS and they were bad ass. Love the design!

 

nice! yeah this oughta work pretty nicely.

so i'm thinking i need rod and main cap bolts in order to get the crank back together right. and new flywheel bolts and an oil pan gasket.

 

Le Boom?

 

We do not have "main caps". We have the girdle/bedplate. There is 30 bolts holding it on. 20 in the middle, and 10 around the outside. Remove all of them, and then remove the girdle. Then you can remove the crank.

Please for your own insurance, get new main bearings and rod bearings.
Yes, definitely get new flywheel bolts, and pressure plate bolts.
We do not have an "oil pan gasket". The best thing to use is "The right stuff". It is a silicone and can be bought from any parts store (advance, pep boys, blah blah blah). You wanna lay a thin bead of it around the oil pan, going on the inside of the bolt holes, and also around the oil pump. You will also want to do the same thing on the "top" side of the girdle. The side that mounts to the block. Be careful to not get too close to the oil lines. And you do not want too fat of a bead of silicone.

Oh, you're also going to want a new rear main seal.

Honestly dude.. best bet.. Get all the materials you need, set aside a night that you're going to do it. Let MrB know. And talk to him on the phone while you do it and he will help you do everything step by step.

EDIT: Check out page 104 and 105 in the LSJ build book.


http://www.allbatterysalesandservice...dimg/29208.jpg

Edit #2: Here is the route you'll use for your silicone on the pan. I did a before and after picture before i used my awesome photoshop skills. Make sure the blue line around the oil pump supply is a rather thin bead.

 

Thank you much! Very helpful

So which bolts and bearings are one ones to replace? Trying to place an order with ced ahead of time

 

call tom @ C.E.D and tell what you need dingle berry

you need rod bearings and main bearings new rear main seal

 

Im talking to him already but id rather do one order than multiple

The bolts are torque to yield so i need new ones

 

they don't sell the bearings as a single unit they are as a set

or get all the part numbers from tom and order

 

Every damn bolt on our motors is tty according to GM. Personally I think 90% of them they just say that to cover their ass. When I talked to ZZP last year they reuse their main bolts all the time. Even in Ryan's 900whp set up. But that's your call. Just food for thought.

 

exactly

I know others have reused them also

 

I thought about re-using the main bolts too but I figure anything that requires me to pull the motor to replace isn't worth taking the chance lol

 

You don't need to pull the motor to replace them. But I get what you're saying.

 

we be picking up what you be putting down dawg

 

all this engine talk makes me wont to sell my Camaro an tear in to the balt.

 

do it do it!!

 

ok so after talking with all you pros...

an updated list

rod bearings
main bearings
rear crank seal
flywheel bolts
main bolts
front crank seal

 

don't forget rod bolts either

 

There are also 2 different sets of main bolts. There's a set of 20 and a set of 10. Make sure you get both.
108 and 107 in the picture you posted. If you click on each of the bolts on CED, they say "requires 10" or "requires 20".