Alright I need all you turbo guys opinion on a fuel setup/anything I missed for my build my build consists of:
diamond 9.5 compression
darton sleeves
k1 rods
cometic head gasket
supertech 78lb valve springs
stage 2 turbo cams
zzp 256et
3 inch vibrant exhaust
stage 4 spec clutch
spec flywheel
stage 1 zzp axels
255s on the front 235 rears

I think thats just about it I want a 500-550 hp mostly reliable street monster

 

I know of a tuner in PA but I'm done recommending that guy especially after I found out he didn't even have the scalars for my throttle body right. Only people ill recommend now is New England Performance and tune. Pm gremlin85 if you want a non-half assed tune.

 

Running 93 octane, 80s with brfps or rsfs
running e85, 98s(1000ccs) with brfps or rsfs

havent seen a lot of ppl with luck on the cometic head gasket. Im assuming you are using the zzp turbo kit. who is tuning you?

 

is there a better headgasket? and do I really need the 1000s? I already have 80s I dont really want to have to get new injectors again I didnt think I would max the 80s and bryan"area47" is tuning me

 

its all in the block and head prep and not many will do it correctly

 

I think my turbo might be going? It's just an ebay turbo, but I cant seem to build boost like I have been. The turbo has maybe 1000 miles on it. I used to hit full boost around 4100 rpm. But now it barely hits 15lbs by almost 5000 rmp! It also makes a sound like an eagle is on the attack lol. I never abused it and it was installed perfectly etc..I have no shaft play. Could it be the turbo is bad just cus of cheapness in quality and bad luck? I might be able to afford the bullseye 256 but not the extended tip. I know everyone recommends the extended tip, but is the normal one gonna disappoint?

 

I hope you have done a boost leak test before anything

 

how are you getting Bryan down to Ft. Hood? 80s will handle it if you stay on 93 but not if you are on e85

I know, we talked about this remember? lol all in how much machine work is done and who does it

what turbo do u have?

agreed!

 

I will try to. My go to guy can't see me for a month though. I don't have the expertise to do it myself.

 

Oh I am back in kc so he is only like 15 mins away and in what way does the machine work need to be done?

 

you wont be disappointed by his tuning ability

we should meet sometime.

 

he tuned me before I melted #4 when my pump went out and as soon as I get my car back up and on the road I am down

 

you need the head and block decked to be FLAT flat. a lot of ppl have attempted to use the cometic and didnt get their blocks flat, they dont seal and bam blame the headgasket. also pay attention to the correct torque pattern.

 

so should I just run the stock head gasket?

 

Im going to run a stock one on my new motor going in, but when I do an actual full build Ill be putting in an MLS headgasket

 

i got the cometic for my build. im doing the backyard build so my block wont be getting shaved.. hope i have no problems?

 

So I was driving home tonight keep in mind yes it was a cold night in PA 35 degrees and i noticed my coolant was only like 120ish to 130ish I can't remember what it usually is at in the cold weather. I look down and i notice my check engine light on so I check the interceptor gauge and the three codes are. P0128, P0507, P0621. I seen the P0128 codes when it was supercharged but never saw the other two codes. Does anyone have any incite or info or come across these codes car was still running didn't notice anything

 

Stock is MLS, just FYI.

 

Coolant temp below regulating spec, IAC idle too high, and generator circut. Sounds like you had a ground wire jump off somewhere.

 

I've been getting p0621 even since I installed zzp's turbo swap. Doesn't happen all the time just occasionally, even less frequently since i installed a new battery. I think the alternator that comes with the zzp kit takes a little longer to start charging the system compared to the lsj alternator.

P0128 and p0507 - what does your coolant temp read on the dic? Edit nm i see its only 120. you sir have a thermostat thats stuck open. How many miles on your thermostat mine went out around 55K? P0507 is a high idle code, which I could see being set if the computer thinks the coolant is cold as **** by the time it should already be fully warmed up. Don't buy another oem pos thermostat. I went to autozone and got a duralast one. Side by side comparison the duralast one looked higher quality and a better design, weird right. Haven't had any problems with it in the past 20k miles and I'm sure it'll outlast the oem one.

 

my coolant was reading like 130 and lil less. I was think the thermostat and im just at 49k miles on the car, also yeah sometimes when i start the car the battery light comes on but all i do is tap the gas a little and it goes right out. never had a code pop up for it. and the p0128 i seen before but i forget what it was basically a bs code

 

If a ground fell off somewhere I think the car would of ran like crap or something else it seemed to be driving fine. I honestly might think the thermostat took a crap

 

Same thing happens with my car with the battery light. Since I changed my battery it happens less frequently but it still occurs. Definitely the alternator that zzp gives with the kit. The second the battery light comes on it sets the p0621 code but doesn't illuminate a cel on the dash.

 

Yeah that don't bug me, but now it sounds like i need a thermostat. That's probably another $100. I also put coilovers on recently and now when i turn the wheels I hear a damn clunk noise like something is hitting but the tire clears fine so i have no idea what that issue is.

 

Thermostat from autozone was like $30 maybe. I was getting a clunking noise when turning too. Turned out to be my sway bar bushings. Take a close look where the swaybar and control arm get very close, you might see a little scuff mark on the control arm if this is the case. Also went with duralast swaybar bushings too. They have been holding up great and no more clunking. Remove the endlinks to take the load off the sway bar and go for a drive to confirm that the noise goes away.

Just a heads up. Remove the fuse box when you change out the thermostat. Getting to one of the three bolts was a pain in the ass. Removing the fuse box allowed me to adjust a stupid hose clamp that was in the way and get at the bolt from a different angle.