I know. Im no longer needing the EVAP, SCIP, or bypass solenoid and will have my tuner delete codes accordingly.

 

Josh's car is getting a little silly, it doesn't even hesitate to light up 3rd anymore...

He's gonna be doing 100mph rolls from now on aparrently

 

Lighting up third with 235 wide tires and pavement temp above 100*, not like these northerners breaking loose on 50* pavement

 

That, and ambient temps over 100. Nothing like putting down 450whp in 100 degree weather.

These guys in cold climates, it's like cheating. I could go out in the rain and light up 3rd, but what does that prove?

Same with drag times, i'd love to see any of these clowns go to PBIR and run the times they pull everywhere else. You haven't fought the air until you race in the swamp in the summer

 

PD,

idk if you're looking to spend that much money though...

All | Engine Components | Electric Vacuum Pump Kit

 

Hey guys it's been a long time since I've been on here lol, anyways after 2 yrs of only putting 1k miles on my car total, and done being pissed off at it I've finally started to play with it again. I've come upon a few things that are throwing me through a loop..

1 being I'm running the stock hahn tune and I'm getting a couple codes like p2226 and misfire codes
2 being I've got a horrible freaking idle, to the point where it won't stay running it will randomly drop off and stall, but sometimes its perfectly fine and sit and idle all day long

Now I've. Replaced the plugs, checked. All my vaccum lines and all that jazz still doing all this garbage

Any thoughts orinputs would be awesome

Sorry for shitty typing I'm doing this on my slow ass droid lol

 

can I get one that runs off craftsman batteries instead of dewalt? all of my tools are craftsman, crap. That is a bad ass idea, just not sure about the batteries vs. hardwire. Im looking at this setup:

COMP Cams 5500 - COMP Cams Electric Vacuum Pump Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

thanx for keeping an eye out, right now I just want it to run again.

p2226 has to do with your BARO sensor, start there, it probably needs to be replaced if its been sitting for an extended period. The misfire codes can be several things, take your crank position sensor out and clean it, see if the problem persists.

Do all of the basic maintenance if the car has been sitting, new fuel filter, plugs, fluids, cracks in any lines, gaskets, check over to make sure all of the manifolds and stuff are still torqued properly and check your o2 sensor

hope this gets you started and on the way to running again.

 

Never thought about checking the sensors.. herp derp moment lol... anyways thanks if I remember it always had a bad idle but would go away when I turned the a/c on.. not sure what that entales but?

 

ive always had issues with my car, stock or otherwise, idling pretty rough with the AC on, maybe someone can pop in with a good reason as to why/how to fix it

 

Here's hoping, any one having any oil leak troubles? Even before I parked my car to get married / house, I knoticed I get a nice coating of mobil1 on the passenger side of the car. I cleaned it all up the other day drove it in to work yesturday looked at it after dinner and still had a film but I can't find where its coming from. I thought it might be the elbow on the backfeed? Line where the turbo drains to the oilpan but the second line going up the the block... but it was clean... any thoughts?

 

alright also to bump this up, i got 2 codes P0033 (SC Bypass Control Circuit) and P2229 (Baro Sensor) already "Cleaned" the baro sensor going to see if it makes a difference, and anyone know why im getting the Bypass Valve code??

 

The oil line that goes into the turbo is pretty good at hidding leaks because the heat burns the oil right off.

 

I had issues with this as well for some time.

What finally fixed it for me:

Back to the stock oil cap
Rear valve cover vent went to the turbo inlet
Adjust Idle scaler to bring idle timing to what I'm commanding (4,000 - 5,000 ballpark?)

At one point I had the PCV valve disabled as I felt it was letting in unmetered air that was being pulled from rear valve cover vent, which on a stock car was routed after the MAF. Didn't help much but made the car idle like **** once I flipped on the AC. Seems like trying to emulate a stock setup had the best results for me.

 

turn off the bypass valve code, you arent using that part anymore

agreed, mine was there for a while check everything in the turbo area

k Ill take a look, but mine done it even when it was SC, ill mess with the idle timing and see what happens

 

A little easier said then done I'm afraid, I don't have hpt nor do I know of anyone in a 25 mile radius who does lol... is it affecting performance? Or can it just be left alone? See this is the stock hahn tune and imho I don't think its right and by right meaning half assed some how for my application...

 

did you get the file from hahn and how was it flashed to your car? Ive used a lot of files that were written to the pcm as a "copy over differences" style of flash and I rarely see the DTCs get changed over when that occurs.

If whomever setup your car did this style then it isnt Hahn's fault, would be the tuners fault.

If you were in Texas I could help you out... lol I know that doesnt help just saying.

 

Idle Scaler, raise it if it's pulling a ton of timing when your at idle, I try to keep mine around 10-15.

 

gotcha, now I just gotta get the car running to do that lol

 

I sent my pcm to hahn while waiting for my kit... so whatever that entales? Not to knock on the quality but their customer service is a joke at best. I've emailed and called and finally just gave up. Had one guy even tell me that it doesn't matter? Well I'm sure it doesn't but its kind of annoying jumping in and seeing the CEL all the time hey? Just my opinion don't anyone go all crazy for me expressing it LOL

 

Ive never had any problem with Hahn, they usually go out of their way to help, but its been a while since Ive dealt with them and they may have had some personnel changes.

With that I would say the best thing to do is to find someone to turn the codes off or reinstall the SCIP sensor. I believe there is a space in the manifold for that sensor and that may be why they didnt turn it off.

 

It's okay... their quality sucks too.

 

Lets not turn this into a hahn bashing thread, your comments help none of the questions on this page and the quality of my turbo kit is far from "sucking." I have also had great customer service from them, faster than zzp as well.

 

He's driven a turbo lsj a lot longer then you, so in my book his opinions matter, no offense. It's just an opinion and let his be heard. Being on this forum for awhile, its easy to come to the conclusion that Hahn is nonexistent. And the reason is what? Usually vendors disappear for a reason. If Hahn was so great that kit would be flying off the shelf. Zzp's kit is by far higher quality and more researched. Just look at the ic piping. Looks like Hahn bought a bunch of universal ic piping kits until they found what works, then repainted it and sell it for more. Zzp actually took the time to make a kit with less couplers and spots for boost leaks. Haha and what about Hahns no tapping the oil pan "oil return" solution, didn't people have a problem with that constantly leaking?

 

Hahn mild steel charge piping that weighs like 97 pounds cheap worm drive clamps, brittle couplers and forget that no tap oil return system, what a POS that is

 

Guess i really dont have to say a word! LMAO! what you guys said sums everything up in a nutshell! The oil "solution" is a joke! mine leaks like a $2 wh*re after... well nevermind i'll keep it clean... Anyways, anyone wanna buy a car? LOL

Anyone know of any Tuners around NW-PA who's dealt with turbo cobalts?