Unlike your rods

 

My recommendation is to lose the breathers ASAP. They're going to start blowing an oily vapor all over your engine bay real soon, and before you know it, everything in the engine bay will be coating in a light film of oil. It's not pleasant, trust me.

 

yup the system should still be closed

 

oil prevents rust... maybe he lives in an area where his vehicle would be rust prone... lol

 

Judging by that picture, he'd rather keep his engine bay clean.

 

Lol I will be getting a closed system in the future, those were just band aids

 

My advice is to act fast. It's not a good band-aid... and the longer you put it off, the more chance that it's never going to happen.

 

best route for a catch can on my s/c car? i can have 2 hoses off the v/c

 

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...53760139,d.b2I

 

Well guys I'm moving on to turbo. Just ordered my kit from zzp and sold my TVS. Coming over to the dark side.

 

Good to hear. Where in IL are you?

 

just need to order parts. thanks

 

I did around the time of the thread and still haven't got around to putting it together lol

 

I'm just outside of STL

 

yeah i havent had one on since i went s/c some 40k miles ago. but this is a newer built motor and done want issues. besides my hood looks like crap underneath with it just venting

 

hey guys, I'm going to hopefully be able to snag full zzp turbo kit with 256 turbo this black friday and plan to make around 400-430 with rods, pistons, and valve springs. My question is, do I need to purchase the zzp Boost reference fuel pressure system if I plan on making that kind of power or am I ok without getting it? I plan on getting 80's injectors and will most likely DD car with around 375whp. thanks.

 

No

 

ok so the fuel pressure standalone management system is not needed to run that type of power and help my car idle smoothly? Ok can save some money then not buying it haha. I guess I'm kind of confused because I thought I read somewhere that you need that fuel system if your running higher injectors to help accommodate the more fuel and help idle the car more smoothly? Probably wrong but thanks in advance.

 

i run 1000cc with no problems. its all about a good tuner though

 

You also don't need rods and pistons for that type of power.

 

yup
we;ve run @500whp on completely stock bottom ends for years....

 

I dunno mine lasted 3 years before breaking from 25-29 psi.... intake backfire split it though. Reinforced now though.... hopefully it holds 40 lol.

 

Damm you guys r making me rethink this entire build with these statements, haha. I've always been told the opposite for into the 400whp range. I guess I like to be cautious since it's going to be my DD. maybe I'll just do pistons and valve springs, just want to build right the first time. thanks for info guys.

 

A 256 is still half asleep at 400

And I strongly advise against changing pistons unless they're going in a fresh hole.

If you were on a Tvs pushing 400; hell yeah that motor is not overly pleased with you. But le turbo? She is much nicer to you.

 

So that means mine is still hibernating at 9 psi? Haha she's not even sweating