2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!

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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 08:58 AM
  #6801  
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From: Indiana
Originally Posted by Jeff876
Alright sorry to jump into this thread again in the middle of a bunch of discussions i barely comprehend lol.
Just have a couple questions .

1) How much would the turbo kit go down/what would be my chances of getting one with the discount or whatever? It won't be this black friday, but if I waited until say next black friday, would it be best to wait (buying the full ZZP kit) or would I just be pissed b/c I didn't get the sale and wasted a bunch of time?
I think I have seen as low as 50% off before. However the likelyhood you will be able to snag it... slim.

2) If I go turbo, what would be better catback wise? ZZP 3" Resonated/catted, or catless/no resonator?
Catless for sure. I run an exhaust cut out personally. I'd get the res too.
3) (not turbo related really) Are there any good coilovers for our cars? I know of the variant 2's , but are they really almost 2 grand? Are they "worth it" in terms of a smooth ride + the low?
In my view you can only afford a race car or a show car. Coils or turbo swap. If you get both, you are just a big baller and seeing figure "1)" I'm going to guess you aren't. So no they aren't worth it, buy the turbo kit.

all i can think of for now
glad I could help
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 10:15 AM
  #6802  
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Last year they had $1,000 off turbo kits for the first buyer, $800 for the 2nd, $600 for the 3rd, and $400 off all day I believe.

And yes, cobalts have many coilover options. You can get a few of them for about $1,000-1,000. I wish the redline had options. I wanted the pedders but they were discontinued I guess, looking for B&G, but lots of places say they don't have them. I'll look into it more this winter. It sucks when you can't find the parts you want lol. If I find em maybe I should just order a set for both cars right away.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 11:34 AM
  #6803  
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From: Howell, MI
Originally Posted by InfraRedline
Last year they had $1,000 off turbo kits for the first buyer, $800 for the 2nd, $600 for the 3rd, and $400 off all day I believe.

And yes, cobalts have many coilover options. You can get a few of them for about $1,000-1,000. I wish the redline had options. I wanted the pedders but they were discontinued I guess, looking for B&G, but lots of places say they don't have them. I'll look into it more this winter. It sucks when you can't find the parts you want lol. If I find em maybe I should just order a set for both cars right away.
the ones with the adjustable endlink mount?
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #6804  
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Originally Posted by bmxracerchamp12
the ones with the adjustable endlink mount?
I'm not even sure to be honest. I have heard of people breaking the end link mounts off of the B&G's so I'd probably just weld and reinforce it.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #6805  
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From: Ann Arbor
I am looking at purchasing an STS turbo. I've been trying to collect what information I can and what I've gathered is: STS turbo t3/t4 38 T4b Stage 3 JAB (s-trim) sts t-31( turbine housing .36 AR and compressor housing .60 AR). I've read a few things, not specific to this turbo, that the .36 turbine could be to small.

I am a newb and still doing what research I can but I am wondering if this turbo is suitable to make my goal power 375-385. Any insight on this is greatly appreciated.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 12:42 PM
  #6806  
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From: Howell, MI
Originally Posted by InfraRedline
I'm not even sure to be honest. I have heard of people breaking the end link mounts off of the B&G's so I'd probably just weld and reinforce it.
those are the ones. why not some kw2's? those were going to be my option if i did decide to
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #6807  
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I'm not a fan of sts type setups for out cars. No good pipe routing path and they need that small ar to keep from being too laggy.
A normal setup still has tons of options to suit your desired characteristics.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 12:55 PM
  #6808  
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Originally Posted by bmxracerchamp12
those are the ones. why not some kw2's? those were going to be my option if i did decide to
You have a sedan, different suspension than coupes.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #6809  
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From: Indiana
Poppin mollys

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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 01:36 PM
  #6810  
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You need an intake son
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 01:42 PM
  #6811  
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From: Indiana
Lol I have one, its just out of sight
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 02:07 PM
  #6812  
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From: Howell, MI
Originally Posted by InfraRedline
You have a sedan, different suspension than coupes.
same mounting and all though. i have run fe3 and am on fe5 now
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 02:08 PM
  #6813  
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From: KY
you need to rotate your pcm
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 02:09 PM
  #6814  
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Originally Posted by 574
Lol I have one, its just out of sight
The clamping flange does not count as an intake lol
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 02:10 PM
  #6815  
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Good eye john.

Nick, When that Hahn cracks once we hit 30psi ill buy it from you for double scrap price
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 03:24 PM
  #6816  
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From: Ann Arbor
Originally Posted by armcclure
I'm not a fan of sts type setups for out cars. No good pipe routing path and they need that small ar to keep from being too laggy.
A normal setup still has tons of options to suit your desired characteristics.
When you say a normal set-up I assume you mean like the bw s252?
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #6817  
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No I meant a typical log style, turbo mounted right behind the motor.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 06:51 PM
  #6818  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by InfraRedline
I'm not even sure to be honest. I have heard of people breaking the end link mounts off of the B&G's so I'd probably just weld and reinforce it.
they will still break. the coil overs that break the end link mount are just demonstrating the el cheapo characteristics; a Torrington bearing on the top of the spring under the top spring plate will help. Its ridiculous to have shim as a bearing on a coil over at the front.

this is a huge thread jack btw.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #6819  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by InfraRedline
You have a sedan, different suspension than coupes.
how is it different other than spring rates and bushing durometer? wondering.
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 09:37 AM
  #6820  
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
they will still break. the coil overs that break the end link mount are just demonstrating the el cheapo characteristics; a Torrington bearing on the top of the spring under the top spring plate will help. Its ridiculous to have shim as a bearing on a coil over at the front.

this is a huge thread jack btw.
It's ok, I approve of the thread jack lol. I have put an email in to Pedders just to see if there is any way I can still get the parts to make their coilovers redline compatible. I really haven't looked into any alternative options other than the solution they offer yet. The B&G's just make me hesitant, and it seems like I am for good reason.

Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
how is it different other than spring rates and bushing durometer? wondering.
Again, haven't looked into it much. That is the only difference? I really don't know much at all about sedans.
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 10:17 AM
  #6821  
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From: Howell, MI
Originally Posted by InfraRedline
It's ok, I approve of the thread jack lol. I have put an email in to Pedders just to see if there is any way I can still get the parts to make their coilovers redline compatible. I really haven't looked into any alternative options other than the solution they offer yet. The B&G's just make me hesitant, and it seems like I am for good reason.



Again, haven't looked into it much. That is the only difference? I really don't know much at all about sedans.

they still offer the conversion and will assist you if you call. kw2's will work but the back has a terrible drop.

that is the only difference between them. most of the stuff will bolt from one to another.
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 10:26 AM
  #6822  
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From: Alpharetta, GA
You and Powell just made my day!!
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #6823  
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From: LR, AR
Originally Posted by armcclure
Good eye john.

Nick, When that Hahn cracks once we hit 30psi ill buy it from you for double scrap price
That Hahn will hold for about two weeks over 20 psi then it will start to separate on the front lower and rear lower welds.
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 11:15 AM
  #6824  
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I just need a flange and most of the ones I find don't have the proper pcv hole for lsj.
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 03:39 PM
  #6825  
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From: newportnews va
oh HAI this forum still lives eh?
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