Yeah my 5531 was awesome and the spool time was amazing, just want more power now. I'm selling my 5531 too.

I really want the 6262 because of future goals and power but I wonder how the spool time is compared between the 2.

 

You do not need to buy zzp pipe for the Saab intake Mani... but it will save you some time. I made mine custom using a kit of 2.5" pipe and various bends. Not the easiest route but cheaper.

On the subject of putting a turbo kit together yourself, its rough. Since I'm still in school, its taken me a good 6 months to finally put down some good power. Was a 2 week build and a few months of adjusting and tinkering. Turns out, used parts are junk!

 

I installed a boost gauge a few weeks ago. Seemed to work fine. After turbo rebuild, new custom downpipe with resonator delete, the gauge wouldn't read over 15 psi.
So I was running 30+, maxing my maf and map sensors :x
I thought it felt way too fast for 15 psi...

But now its all tuned and ready to go at about 19 psi. Finally... still loses some traction in 3rd! None in 2nd

 

Yep my install took a full month with all the adjustments that had to be made since nothing fit together

Gonna have to get you up to breaking those tires loose in 4th

 

They break well in second and a little in 3rd if I really hammer it
And this is only 18-19 psi range.
When I was boosting too much on accident due to glow shift not reading right, tires would break free at 80 in 3rd.
But much safer for my engine now


Couldn't go too fast with all the traffic

 

I am still having an annoying problem..
Car will go rich sometimes, around 12.8-13 idling. Then it will jump back up to normal 14.7 this happends low throttle cruising too.
Other times it till run lean at 17s while low throttle or idle.

It kind of bounces around a little.other times its fine. Does not do it all the time. But it makes me throw a lean code sometimes.

New o2 sensor BTW, thought it would clear the issue up

 

Wideband calibrated recently? My brother had a similar issue until he calibrated it.

 

my aem one jumps a lot and i had an issue where it quit reading after i pulled my motor. got it fixed but it doesnt seem right. havent started the car in 6 months so i will deal with it when the time comes

 

Do you have a cat and/or rear o2

 

Its an aem gauge that doesn't require calibration. I can also feel the idle get a little rough when it goes lean.

I am cat less with the rear o2 deleted, taken out thru hp

 

Re enable rear o2 codes. Just set to "no mil" option.

 

When you remove the rear o2 and disable all codes, the PCM still knows something isn't right and runs a high/low test when you're coming back to idle. Having a rear o2 code on but hidden stops the test from running.

 

Won't it throw sensor 2 o2 code? Or there's a way to shut the DTC off? Being new to tuning, feel free to spread some detail on me lol

 

It will throw the code but won't illuminate the check engine light. You'll only see it if you scan it.
Your other option is putting the rear o2 back in.

 

Oh nevermind! tuner said he did make it hidden....So while we tuned last weekend, was fine. Did not throw any codes during the 3 hours of pulls and cruising... so i dont know.

I couldnt find any leaks, exhaust sounds tight. Intercooler or exhaust.

I do have a broken ac harness connector near my charge piping. I think its pressure switch or something.

 

An easy way to explain it is when you disconnect the rear o2 and delete codes, the PCM sees that everything is supposed to be ok but the rear o2 isn't working. So it commands rich and lean to try to get a voltage change out of it. The only 2 ways to stop this are either allowing it to throw a hidden code (test can only run with no codes present) or to put the rear o2 back in the pipe so that the PCM sees it's actually doing something.

 

i never knew the rear o2 would cause that

 

could i just reconnect it and hang it up out of the way? with it still being hidden thru hp?

 

You only need to do one or the other. But even then, no, it would have to actually be in the pipe.
And to clarify, by hidden I mean it will still throw the code. If you look with a scan tool it will be there. It just won't illuminate the CEL. You cannot have it completely disabled.

 

okay thanks! good information to know

 

i have another brain buster for you guys lol. my glow shift gauge doesnt read over 15(30psi max)? accurate readings up to there (compared to electronic lsj gauge) then it stops at 15 every time.

Why would it be doing this? it worked correctly when i first bought it, went up to 20+. Possible that its like blown out?

 

because glowshift gauges are terrible. is it a digital or mechanical one?

 

My glow shift read high just fine when I was running my 2.6/tvs...

 

No problem with my glowshift gauges either.

 

Nor I. Does it flutter around there or just dead stop?