Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
car is finally fixed!!! after taking it to get tuned for the new turbo he was making tons of changes to the fuel system to lean it out but it wasnt working so we started checking every sensor after disconnecting the map sensor i cut my finger on the bottom of the intake mani and reached under to see what was sharp and turns out my manifold cracked the whole bottom weld accross the manifold this is the 4th time this mani has crack all in dif places. so i got my buddy who works for a fab shop to weld it tonight and what do u know the car runs like a champ!! the tune is still very rich but atleast its boosting right now and not cutting out at 8psi
I am getting ready to install my fuel return line from ottp. I had a couple questions before I started.
1. I know how to connect the reg and run the lines to the tank. My fear/question is how much of a hassle is it to replace the pump and get it to fit?
2. I read at idle you should be running around 51psi. That is from the how to. Is this correct? Running 80s with the DW200 pump.
3. Will I need a tune to be able to drive to and from work. (Already have a tune allowing me to drive it) Like 5 miles. No boosting just getting around. I have a dyno setup for friday.
1. I know how to connect the reg and run the lines to the tank. My fear/question is how much of a hassle is it to replace the pump and get it to fit?
2. I read at idle you should be running around 51psi. That is from the how to. Is this correct? Running 80s with the DW200 pump.
3. Will I need a tune to be able to drive to and from work. (Already have a tune allowing me to drive it) Like 5 miles. No boosting just getting around. I have a dyno setup for friday.
51psi is a little on the higher side but you can do it no problem. car should drive around fine. the pump isn't hard at all. you just have to dremel off some little tabs to let the pump sit correctly
the turbos that come with the zzp kit are ball bearing right? i have a 256et and inbetween shifts it like takes a little bit for the turbo to spool back up. is this normal or should i check something?
No. It's Journal Bearing. When you shift... your BOV dumps all the pressure/air out of your piping... so it takes a little bit of time to re-pressurize the system. The way to beat that is to NLS.
I need to find a ball bearing that would help a little bit and its a big delay. Or would a 50/50 bov help?
sounds like tuning maybe, hard to say without actually being in the car seeing what is happening. mine doesn't hold boost through the shift but it's a split second before it's back.
lol. like i said theres way too many factors that can affect it, tune being one. timing, afr's, etc all play into the turbos actions to an extent. I wonder what role dfco would play into it out of curiosity. I don't claim to know everything or be a tuner by a long shot but I have a handle on how most things work with it lol.
the extended tip spools up similarly to a ball bearing unit. there are tons of factors that could cause a slow spool back up, but really
where are you shifting at?
are you WOT?
are you NLS?
how long is the delay?
have you boost leak tested?
Is your BOV opening completely?
Is your WG opening completely?
are either of these closing completely?
what boost controller?
how much boost?
where do you normally get full spool?
what tune?
where are you shifting at?
are you WOT?
are you NLS?
how long is the delay?
have you boost leak tested?
Is your BOV opening completely?
Is your WG opening completely?
are either of these closing completely?
what boost controller?
how much boost?
where do you normally get full spool?
what tune?
ugh this is going to be a headache lol I'll try to get a video of what its doing. I shift at like 6500 to 7000rpm, and i can't tell if the bov or wastegate are opening fully or closing lol its hard to tell while driving the tune is a tune zzp gave me and everything and my buddy finished up so tweaks with added boost on the dyno to get rid of slight knock and adding and cutting fuel and timing and sorts
ugh this is going to be a headache lol I'll try to get a video of what its doing. I shift at like 6500 to 7000rpm, and i can't tell if the bov or wastegate are opening fully or closing lol its hard to tell while driving the tune is a tune zzp gave me and everything and my buddy finished up so tweaks with added boost on the dyno to get rid of slight knock and adding and cutting fuel and timing and sorts
If you shifted like Ricky Bobby... you wouldn't lose boost at all in-between shifts. 
Even when I was on the journal bearing PTE SC5031E, I didn't have slow spool problems after shifting.
More than likely, your problem is a combination of slow shifting and using a base tune. Probably a little bit of shifting too soon, as well. Shifting at 6500 is for fgts. Shifting before 7000 is also for fgts. 7000 to 7200 is optimal. I shifted at 7400 on a stock long block for over 60,000 miles. Also, the tune ZZP provides is a base tune. Too many people get into the thinking that this should be a top notch tune. It's not. It's a base tune. It's designed to be safe and to get the car running so that it can make its way to a dyno for proper tuning.
Even when I was on the journal bearing PTE SC5031E, I didn't have slow spool problems after shifting.
More than likely, your problem is a combination of slow shifting and using a base tune. Probably a little bit of shifting too soon, as well. Shifting at 6500 is for fgts. Shifting before 7000 is also for fgts. 7000 to 7200 is optimal. I shifted at 7400 on a stock long block for over 60,000 miles. Also, the tune ZZP provides is a base tune. Too many people get into the thinking that this should be a top notch tune. It's not. It's a base tune. It's designed to be safe and to get the car running so that it can make its way to a dyno for proper tuning.