2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Official TVS Thread!!!

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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 09:23 AM
  #9876  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by riceburner
i know what you mean but hey if its really low or high that could be indicative of a clogged cat or major boost leak; it should be relatively close to 20 depending on his altitude and if his AFR is funky thats also indicative of an issue
My car makes 14lbs of boost.... Normally, 14lbs of boost is stage 2 territory and 230whp... I have 299whp. See what im getting at?

Sure if it was redic high than possibly a clogged cat, but i feel it is more or less his timing tables and and tune parameters that need work.

Also, he did not specify what kind of dyno, since all can read different.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 09:38 AM
  #9877  
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I think its time for a new tuner.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 09:39 AM
  #9878  
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Originally Posted by Haven07
Was on a dynapack chassis dynamometer I can try and see of I can post the paper work up when I get home
Originally Posted by Staged07SS
My car makes 14lbs of boost.... Normally, 14lbs of boost is stage 2 territory and 230whp... I have 299whp. See what im getting at?

Sure if it was redic high than possibly a clogged cat, but i feel it is more or less his timing tables and and tune parameters that need work.

Also, he did not specify what kind of dyno, since all can read different.
*cough cough*


We used a dynapack hub dyno at the meet this weekend. Stage 3 pump gas cars (typical 260-270 range) were barely breaking 200. It was a sweet dyno setup, but holy heartbreaker.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 09:49 AM
  #9879  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by armcclure
*cough cough*


We used a dynapack hub dyno at the meet this weekend. Stage 3 pump gas cars (typical 260-270 range) were barely breaking 200. It was a sweet dyno setup, but holy heartbreaker.
and there we have it!!!
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 10:03 AM
  #9880  
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well there ya go then! a 1.3 multiplier means you should be more at 347 whp lol.

still sounds like you have some issues though
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 11:14 AM
  #9881  
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From: MD
Originally Posted by armcclure
*cough cough*


We used a dynapack hub dyno at the meet this weekend. Stage 3 pump gas cars (typical 260-270 range) were barely breaking 200. It was a sweet dyno setup, but holy heartbreaker.
Thank you!!!! I think I still need the tune cleaned up but holy hell that puts my mind at ease, I was worried I might have a seriously weak motor lol

Originally Posted by riceburner
well there ya go then! a 1.3 multiplier means you should be more at 347 whp lol.

still sounds like you have some issues though
Lmao if that was the case I'd have to break some sorta record considering she's still on pump lol
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 11:54 AM
  #9882  
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Was the vehicle dynoed stock at this location?
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 11:57 AM
  #9883  
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No, never had it dyno'ed stock. What happens was my car shot a spark plug and stripped the threads, so I kinda said "f" it and grabbed a ported head. I had all the other mods already just no time to install them until my car went down

Only thing I had on my car last year was the exhaust.
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 11:52 AM
  #9884  
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Hey, can anyone provide me some clarification on installing return style fuel setup?

Trying to have my t's dotted and i's crossed before attempting install, as i will have a very short window to do it on friday.

1) Pump install: drop tank, remove canister, undo clip and pull out in tank regulator. Pump goes into tank seperately, i can remove old pump and pretty much drop this in a secure... somehow? Its the aem320 e85 pump.. any info on how this mounts? pics?

2) filter is outside of tank, i remove that and replace with one included in kit, no new lines from this i believe, and the return to tank line that WAS going to the filter now gets connected to the new return line from the in-engine bay regulator? Or do i remove the return to tank from filter line entirely and replace with the new one?

3) How, in rough words, do i attach the regulator to the fuel rail? or how do i attach the line from regulator to rail, and leave the regulator out of the way (tucked by the brake resoviour)?

4) What line to i referance for vacuum to the regulator? Is it a 'T' fitting that i cut and install into the proposed vac line and run a new on to the regulator?

5) Wiring kit: Do i need to drill a hole in my trunk and run a grommet to run the wiring kit to the fuel pump?

Thanks for any and all help!
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 01:18 PM
  #9885  
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Rice did you look at the saturn forums that in in my how to thread ? It shows you pretty well how its all routed as the lines go.
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:12 PM
  #9886  
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Rice I will take a stab at your questions. It has been a little while since I did mine tho.

1)For that pump you will need to use the piece of rubber line that comes with it in order for it to fit in the canister. It's hard to explain. I'll try to find pictures. Maybe someone else can help.

2) The line coming from the engine bay goes to the return on the tank.

3)There is a little silver adapter that goes into your fuel rail the same way the damper is on it now. Held on by an o-ring and 2 little screws. Mine was a pain to get into the rail the o-ring kept jamming. AN fittings screw into it. You can either mount the regulator right there or if you have line run it up onto the firewall.

4) I put a T fitting in the same line my meth kit is tapped into and ran that to the regulator.

5) What wiring do you mean? Fuel pump rewire kit from ZZP or OTTP. For those you cut the wires under the rear seat and splice into then run them inside the car into the trunk.
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:29 PM
  #9887  
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Rice im going to be doing my pump install (450) in the canister tonight with Advise ... ill take pics for you and post them up and text them to ya as well.
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:35 PM
  #9888  
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Slobodan Milošević
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I'm going to be doing this very soon as well
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 07:27 AM
  #9889  
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For the aem green, there is a little nub on the bottom that is meant to hold the supplied filter stock. Snip that off with a pair of side cuts. MAKE SURE the pump is fully seated into the stock pickup or you will starve the pump under 1/2 tank.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 07:39 AM
  #9890  
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Gentlemen;

Thank you very much for the clarification.i now feel quite a bit more comfortable doing this.

Regards
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 09:12 AM
  #9891  
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from what i saw last night .... the 450 is a huge PIA. Im told the 320 is a cake walk, i didnt get any pics cuz i was out logging another car while my pump was being hacked up by Advise.

Does anyone have any specific hints or strategies on getting the 450 in ? We dremmeld the hell out of it. It looks like the gray pieces with the rubber grommet in it is hitting the white part of the pump but we cant really take any more off of it.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 08:30 PM
  #9892  
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I hope your not using a fuel pump rewire kit from Zzp or Ottp. Those will burn out quick.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 10:15 PM
  #9893  
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I heard multiple opinions about needing a relay/rewire at all with a larger pump. Anyone care to discuss?
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 11:02 PM
  #9894  
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Its definitely a highly recommend I'd personally say a must with larger pumps. I have a really big pump on the black car and it was absolutely needed to run it. Pump flow it directly related with voltage supply so a drop in voltage or not enough or inconsistent and you won't get the same advertised flow.

The problem with what is out there is the wire gauge is WAY to small. I ended up making my own.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 11:06 PM
  #9895  
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i am running the wolly 450 with out it and wagon should be running the hot wire for his pump off of the alternator
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 06:03 AM
  #9896  
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Its fine if you wire it the correct way
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 07:09 AM
  #9897  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by SSfamilywagon
I hope your not using a fuel pump rewire kit from Zzp or Ottp. Those will burn out quick.
I have the ZZP re wire, and it is fine.

They updated the kit with a better relay (bosch) and fuse (delphi). Spoke to Turbo Tim about it.

I actually gained a little over 1ms pw throughout the upper rpm range with it. AFR is around 11.6 now vs 11.9 before the install. Going to re-dyno in the fall, and let her eat this time.

Last edited by Staged07SS; Jul 24, 2015 at 09:58 AM.
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 09:44 AM
  #9898  
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i have the the ottp rewire kit to go along with my kit.

I cant not for the life of me get the 450 to fit ... so i ordered an aem E85 320.
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 10:42 AM
  #9899  
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Nice lol

So got to drive my car for a few yesterday... beyond the base tune not working well it would only drive somewhat normal under >1/3 throttle. I could hear the TVS whining even over the drone of my catless exhaust and pops and gutted trunk!

cannot WAIT to set this S.O.B. on kill!!! It's gonna be such a blast.
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 01:51 PM
  #9900  
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^^ go fix it
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