hey if you wanna speed things up just click the link in my sig and buy about 30 of everything lol

no but really I can't wait to get this thing done. at first I was definitely half-assing it but now I'm ready to drive it again

 

nice man just keep up the work my biggest problem is gunna b that im an 07 so i gotta find the right donnor motor to use :/

 

you have more options though

 

cheapest to just build the one you have

if you're trying to avoid downtime by building a 2nd block then just keep an eye on places like eBay. I bought mine from some junkyard in CO for fairly cheap

 

I ordered the overbore pistons since the machine shop won't guarantee their work with stock bore pistons. I have a Gen 2 block though so I think the sleeves are thicker.

Just tore my new motor down last week. These Ecotecs don't take long to disassemble do they? haha

 

I'd put some Mr.B sleeves if you want to not have to worry and put down some real power.

 

The gen1&2 sleeves are identical. I'd follow andrew's advice. The sleeves come in undersize so that they can be properly machined for correct cyl wall clearance with stock bore pistons.

 

hey IonNinja wht did u use to know all the specs for building the engine gunna be starting my build soon

 

Haynes or Chilton repair manual will have all specs and clearances in it

 

sorry for this noob question where can i get and how much?

 

If you are talking about the repair manuals, any auto parts store will have them.

 

Anyone got a website with a good valve spring tool for our cars?

 

ionninja, its good that you deglazed the cylinders but there needs to be a 45* degree crosshatch when you hone at home. Sometimes its difficult to maintain that evenly across all 4 cylinders but its very important to the ring seating process and oil control. Engine Hone, Flex Hones, Cylinder Hones

The residue build up on the domes of those pistons is clear evidence that you were burning a **** ton of oil in the cylinder. I dont think you necessarily have to replace the piston depending on how deep that valve depression is on that one piston, however you clearly have to inspect the valves.

Do you have any pictures of the bearings you removed?

 

Hows the build coming?

 

I used a Euroexport 4G63 valve spring compressor with custom brackets to fit our head Mitsubishi 4G63 Valve Spring Compressor

You're probably better off just trying to find the Kent Moore valve spring compressor though. You can usually get them on eBay. From a quick search on the forum I believe the p/n you need is J-43649

There is a 45 degree crosshatch on the cylinders, it's just hard to pick up on camera with the lighting and such.

I'm definitely going to replace the piston just for piece of mind. I've switched back to my original cylinder head so the valves in there are fine.

Unfortunately no, the old bearings are long gone. In the problem cylinder there was no rod bearing to be recovered anyway

Just got my LNF outter main bolts yesterday. Replacement piston still needs to be ordered but I think I'll start putting everything back together minus the one cylinder

 

So just a very small update...I've been prepping my 3 pistons to start putting my block back together and man, getting all that carbon off the top of the pistons has been a bitch! That stuff was really caked on thick

I bought some Berryman Chem-dip to get everything off but its taken about a week of soaking periodically to get them to this point. The piston ring grooves cleaned up nicely but the top of the pistons are being a pain.



I'm ready to just say eff it, leave em as is and run some Seafoam through it once everything is back together

 

lol flat top pistons, you would think this motor was built in the 30s

 

So I went ahead and installed my old pistons. Cleaned the carbon off the top the best I could but you can still see there's just a little left over. The 4th one is the worst but the other two barely have any remaining.





I just ordered my replacement piston tonight so that should be on the way and I can finally button up this bottom end.

 

FINALLY got my replacement piston. It was backordered so I had to wait a couple weeks for it to come in. But now the progress should finally start lol

 

you don't use stock piston to cylinder wall clearances for after market pistons


go to the mopar dealer and get a can of combustion chamber cleaner it will eat the carbon off pretty quick

 

I've read about that stuff on the SRT4 forums. Can you use it with the pistons in the engine though?

After a small struggle with the circlips, I finally got my new piston and rod installed.

 

u can just spray it on a rag or paper towel and let it soak in that way

 

So update, I've been working on the car here and there over the last couple of weeks

Next step was throwing on the headgasket and my ARP head studs.


Then I threw my head on, thankfully I had installed my ZZP valve springs way back when so it was fairly straight forward.


After that I got the motor timed. And yes I did turn it over before taking this pic lol.

Also I think the keyway on my old crank was junk. I couldn't get the crank sprockets off to save my life and it would explain why I had a hell of a time getting my crank pulley off a while back. Ended up buying new sprockets and I'm probably gonna grab another crank pulley too.


And finally put the oil pan and valve cover on last night. I was waiting on putting the oil pan back on so I could have an oil drain bung welded in for a future turbo build but it's not in the budget at the moment




At this point all I need to do is have my flywheel resurfaced and then I can install that and my KY clutch. Once that's done it's time to put this baby back in it's shell

 

looks good

 

about time! what head gasket is that?