Wow so much crap, ur taking the pan down either way, tap the damn pan

 

ummm...i used NPT for both my fittings and the taps

 

NC = National Course, which is a bolt thread. 1/2" wide exactly. 13 threads per inch. So it lists it as 1/2"-13

Then you can get other threads like NF = National Fine and would be something more like 1/2"-20 (20 threads per inch, a fine thread)

NPT = National Pipe Thread, which is a... well a pipe thread. However the numbers are a little different, i believe it then a 1/2" inside diameter for the pipe. Thats why the NPT ends up being so much larger in size. They dont have different thread pitches or threads per in. Also an NPT is a tapered thread, they taper down 3/4" in 12". The threads are only about an inch so you dont really see a huge amount taper. They do this so when your tightening it down, the threads get tighter and provide a seal. Using a sealing goop should be used as well.

For the 1/2"NPT you need to drill a 3/4" Hole, then tap with a 1/2NPT tap which can be found at home depot or ace hardware or lowes. Whatever you have down by you.

 

Cool, that's what I needed to know! Hopefully sears will have individual sizes. Still having trouble getting the oil pan off though. I took out all the bolts according to the haynes manual, but the dang thing won't come down. I tried hitting it with a hammer, and prying at it but it won't budge. Hopefully I'll figure it out when I get home. Other than that though, I'm ready to go! Gotta tow it to the exhaust shop tomorrow.

 

i believe...man, how do u do it, u pry it off, no wait dont, you'll warp it...**** i forgot...try putting a chizel between the...no...you might warp the block/pan...damn aluminum blocks...hahahahaah...umm...****, u remove the alternator bolt too?

 

I didn't see an alternator bolt....wtf? I saw two AC compressor bolts, I'll have to check on that alternator bolt tomorrow I guess. ANYWAYS! Picture time!!!








And yes, I do realize everything looks like ****. I can't get a decent lighting to save my ass, and the car looks filthy because it's been in a dirty garage for the past 2 weeks almost. Whenever this thing gets done, valve cover is getting repainted and everything is getting polished.

 

this is looking great....

as far as getting the pan off you need a pry bar...there are some notches in between the block and the pan....its actually easier to get it off from the passenger side....take off the wheel and right in front of the block and behind the a/c compresser you will stick your pry bar and it should pop right off...make sure you actually stick it in the notch or you will **** up the seal....

but you shouldnt have a problem....i dont have picture of this but this is the way i have done it the 3 times that i have taken it off...its the easiest way....

and when you pry it off it wont fall on the ground so dont trip...it will just land on the frame then you need to actually pull it out...good luck

 

Well, it would be my luck that the thing would fall and crack the cast aluminum.

As far as the tap, I went to sears and they did not have individual taps, and even the big sets did not have npt taps. I was mad, not even the auto stores had a good selection of anything. Autozone and O'Reilleys were out of 10x1.5 bolts, so there's another setback. Still need 2 more of those for my oil return flange. I'm thinking about doing something crazy for the oil return line anyways, we will see if my hardware store has the right pieces.

 

looking awesome man almost there.. what about using a 75* bend though from the part after the 90* from the turbo to the fender wall? smoother bends will promote better air flow

 

Yeah, I actually think I might have a long 75 left. Either way, I gotta do something. It's sticking up way too high as you might have noticed. My brother tried to shut my hood the other day, and when he did it slammed against the studs on the coupler clamps and put a dent in my hood. Nothing really noticeable, just another incentive to get CF one day. So ready for this thing to be driveable, going on two weeks down.

 

yeah ignore the alternator haha it was the ac compressor I mean sorry...WTF was I thinking

 

Do you have any ace hardwares by you? i always go there, they carry EVERYTHING.

 

Not sure, I've heard of them though. While I'm in the city I'll go to lowes or home depot and check.

Btw, I don't know what I'm going to do for the crank case hose though. I've got a breather filter but I hate the thought of unmetered air getting in anywhere. I was going to just tap into the intake pipe, but that's not going to matter because that's before the MAF. It's gotta be after the MAF and it's right by the TB. I might end up using a filter after all.

 

But a greater on it. We did that on my buddies 2.2sc no issues at all, you tap the intake fir it too but put a catch can, remember oil comes out there

 

What's a greater?

 

Sorry iPhone spell checker,ment breather

 

i think he meant breather

 

Yeah hahaha breather...stupid iPhone spell checker :p

 

Not much to report today, I stopped at Lowe's and picked up some fittings for my oil return line. Wouldn't you know it, they didn't have M8 10x1.5 bolts. So, I'm like wtf is up with this size. I'll try autozone and see if they have any more in stock. I'm doing something weird for me return line. You guys will just have to wait and see. :P

 

wait what? M8 10x1.5?

It should just be M10 x 1.5

m10x1.5 is basically the most common M10 size available. if you see bolts or studs that just say M10, its a 99% chance they are a 1.5 pitch. Either that or contact me i might be able to get some M10 studs drop shipped to you crazy fast.

 

For the oil outlet flange bolts? Maybe that's why I've had such a hard time getting a good fit.

Well that should make it a lot easier. I wish I could take off work tomorrow and finish the damn thing. Honestly the only thing I'm missing is 2 bolts and I'll be done.

 

Finally :p than pressure wash ur engine bay and u can start a photoshoot :p

Also when I worked at vatozone there were m8x1.5 up the ass, should be in the revolving rack were they keep the other bolts and nuts

 

thats where i got a a few bolts and nuts since i only had 2 studs for my turbo

 

oooo for the turbo oil outlet, i think there actually standard thread like 3/8" NC. Im 99% sure there not metric for some odd reason.

 

I tried a M10 x 1.5 and it doesn't thread right. Maybe it's a M10 x 1.25?