alright thats good i wasnt sure if it was weldable, it doesnt seem thick enough, but when i get the mani i will see what direction i have to weld it at to make it work...

well just bought a boost controller, went with a manual one, not a brand name or nothin but not one of the ones you see on ebay all the time, it looks more like the homemade ones...uummm nsxmotorsports i belive is what brand it is

also just bought the stainless steel braided oil feed line with with a 1/8 male fitting for the turbo, and a female 1/8 to go tp the oil gallery plug adapter

just bought the cobalt addiction steering column gauge pod for my boost gauge, when it gets here i will go ahead and install the gauge, do all the wiring and routing, it can be installed even w/out the turbo, all it will do is let me know how much my car sucks, lol, literally
also i will gett o play with the colors and see how i wanna make it, red during the day and white at night, or white in the day and red during the night, hmm, i will see which on works best, i hope CA isnt slow with their shipping, i hate it when you buy something, and than it dont get shipped out till waaaay later, hell i payd you right than and there, shouldnt u get it sent as sooon as they accept the payment? anyway yeah, so...now im done buying **** for the next couple weeks, until my stimulus check gets here, when it does, consider my build done

 

you couldve got thath pillar alot cheeper off ebay...i got a tripple pillar for 50 and its awesome...looks just like the ca pillar

 

i didnt get the a pillar one, i got the one that sits behind the steering wheel\

 

jesus how many gauges do you need

 

thats not my pic, took it from cobalt-addictions website, im only getting the gauge pod on the steering wheel

 

Fresh off the press! Hey just to give you an idea as to what EVO III 16g is capable of on my Integra, check out the linkage.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...43#post2378543

 

Trust me, I'm reading everything in here. There may not be a lot I keep my eye on around here, but your car has caught mine. I'm interested in seeing how things work out for you

 

well i finished with the MAF pipe, i previously started a interest thread on piping with a MAF bung already on it, so the MAF can be bolted back on like stock, ment for those wanting to make a custom intake, or having a custom turbo kit, no one showed interest, so TTR wont do it...so i went and cut the stock air box up, i started by cutting off the pipe from the box with a cutting wheel, than went back in with a porting bit and just grinded it all the edges down the best i could, and ended up with this thing...not the prettiest bastard, but it will do the job...

 

buy a cheap ebay intake and do the same thing, you won't have to deal with plastic then. and it's allready 3 inch piping

 

that'll do pig lol kinda makes me want to do it but meh 65 $ intake will do lol

 

Rebel Auto Worxs has the MAF bungs for $45! Just call them people!

 

they have the bungs.. not them welded on the piping and all ready to go... i've found a few places that have the bungs.. as jn2 and mike25 know.. but that doesn't help you all that much unless you're gonna custom fab up your own section

 

my pipe will work just as fine, im not in the mood to weld my own maf bung in, the ebay intake is only 3" from the MAF to the filter, before that its 2.75

 

In this case he has the ability to weld, so thus I recommended it. I can see the concern otherwise though and hacking an intake is a solution. However the problem that arrises is that it has no lips or way to prevent the couplers from slipping off under boost. Clamps do great things, but under boost the added lip really helps out. Trust me my buddy kept blowing his couplers off under boost until we welded a lip around all his pipes. Yes, he was using T-bolt clamps as well.

 

you could always abs in a little lip

 

well i did another fitting on the piping and Ic, came out alot better than ladt time, w/alot of pipes left over , lemme upload the pics to my gallery than ill post them







there they are, sorry for the quality, i used my phone, i couldnt find my camera at the time, as you can see in the last pic, the IC sits pretty far back, it sits 1"lower than the bumper, whcih i can fix easy, cuz i have enough room to move it up 2", so yeah, that is a easy fix, besides that, thats what it will look like, the piping will be painted all black, all of it, except for the flex pipe

also, the 90* bend of piping at the throttle body will be replaced with a 90 degree coupler, the little lower end opening with all the factory mesh whatever bullshit thing, yeah, im cutting that **** off and putting mesh there, will make the IC a bit more visible...black mesh, not chrome, i hate chrome mesh

 

whats with the bendy straw things? why not use the leftover piping?

 

none of the bends i have left over have the angle i need, they will add even more sharp corners, these wont, they let it keep a smooth flow with out corners

 

you used your straight and J bends?

i'm just figuring that might disrupt the flow thats all

 

the j pipe wont work, even if cut, it will leave to little room for the clamp to grab

 

J bend+ straight+weld = ZOMG jfwy man well i might have some extra piping in a few weeks depending on how things go.. if you want it let me know

 

yeah, but im not going to weld these, i havent tried welding aluminum before, always welded either SS or mild steel...i wonder...i might try it with the spares i have letf

 

whats' it hurt? right?worst thing that happens is you loose pipes you didn't need to begin with

and if it works you'll have a much more professional looking setup

 

I don't think that flex pipe is going to do the trick on the passenger side. I'd be willing to bet it will leak easily under boost and they rust really easy. That stuff works great for mock-ups though as it hold the shape you put it in to copy for welding pipes. Instead of using aluminum pipes I used 2.5" Dynomax exhaust J-bends for my intercooler piping. They are fairly cheap and then you can make the pipe anyway you want by cutting and welding them. At most I could see you using 3 or 4 j-bends, plus it would make the routing a lot smoother and leak free. Just a suggestion though. Keep up the good progress man.

Did you receive the manifold yet? If so, can you show me pic of the turbo mounted? I might have a better and easier idea for your charge piping which will reduce the amount even further.

 

like i said i might have some piping you can use in a month or so