THE COBALT SS/SC: GOT BOOST? (Part II)
08-18-2006, 12:01 AM
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THE COBALT SS/SC: GOT BOOST? (Part II)
THE COBALT SS/SC: GOT BOOST? (Part II)
By: Denny Medeiros, Cobaltss.net
Introduction:
After only a few weeks of running the 3 inch pulley, it’s now time for me to join in on the ranks of the speed demons. I swear this stuff is more addictive then any drug known to man. It’s very hard to stop modifying your car, when oil and gas have been running through your veins for over 15 years now. From boosted Acura’s to 400HP Turbo Eclipse’s and now the Cobalt SS/SC. Needless to say, I am addicted and loving every minute of it.
The Recipe:
First let me introduce the products in question:
1) ZZP 2.6 inch pulley
2) ZZP adjustable tensioner
3) 42# Lucas Injectors and Casper Injector Harness
4) MAFT
5) NGK BKR7E 1 step colder gapped at 0.35
6) Aeroforce Interceptor
7) ZZP SSC lowering springs
8) Voodoo Boost controller
Brief description of these products:
1) The 2.6 Inch ZZP pulley: Since I am planning on keeping the stock 6500rpm redline, the 2.6 inch pulley won’t be over spinning the M-62 GEN5 supercharger. I also wanted to open up my boost range so I could control it with my Boost controller (more on this later). Just like ZZP claimed, the ZZP 2.6 inch pulley doesn’t require machining of the supercharger’s nozzle. If your supercharger nozzle is not perfectly round then you may have to grind a little bit of material to clear the pulley.
2) The ZZP adjustable tensioner: It is well known that smaller pulleys have fewer surfaces contacting the belt. This mandates a higher tension to prevent belt slip. The ZZP adjustable tensioner solves this problem by giving you full adjustability. It is mandatory for maximizing your engine’s potential when running smaller pulleys. It comes anodized in black. The pivot center is CNC machined from 303 stainless steel and uses the same type of Teflon coated bearings as the factory tensioner. It is O-ring sealed at both ends and is 1/2 the weight of the stock tensioner further improving performance. With the ZZP adjustable tensioner, a force much higher than stock can be achieved. This eliminates belt slip and maximizes boost!
3) The 42# Lucas Injectors and the Casper Injector Harness: According to the research done so far, these injectors can pump out enough fuel for a maximum output of 270HP-280HP. For your Information these injectors matched to our stock fuel pressure of 60PSI, makes these 42# Lucas injectors, act more like 50# injectors.
4) The MAFT: It may not be an accurate tuning tool like HPtuners, but for now till the end of September it will do. I am planning a visit to Rochester, New York. I am going to visit Mike, owner of New Era Performance and a supporting vendor on this site, for a custom tune for my car. I am very excited about this. Look for a full write up by the end of September about the whole experience. I was using my MAFT with the most popular settings switch: (on, off, off, off) and BASE: C and WOT: 1, but I was experiencing 3-5 degrees of knock from 4K to Redline. After much research and testing I now set it at BASE: E and WOT: 3 and I am not experiencing anymore knock.
5) The NGK BKR7E: We have seen a great deal of debates over the past few weeks in this forum. What kind of plugs to run? What gap? Should it be 1 step colder or 2 Step colder? Well, I concluded that the NGK BKR7E (1 step colder) with a gap of 0.35 was the best combo for the LSJ, with my specific upgrades. That’s just my personal opinion. The more boost the smaller the gap.
6) The Aeroforce Interceptor gauge: What a great tool. It’s an absolute must to monitor engine functions when upping the power on your engine. Here is a description of the gauge taken from the Aeroforce web page.
“The Interceptor is a powerful 2 1/16" gauge that reads, displays, and records
any two of up to 28* important engine operating parameters, as well as
functions as a highly accurate shift light and performance timer. These
parameters are accessed via the vehicle's OBD2 port (diagnostic port located
under the dash). This is critical data necessary for performance tuning and
problem diagnosis. The Interceptor also reads and clears DTC's (Diagnostic
Trouble Codes) and now has two user configurable analog inputs. Click on
the appropriate application to the left for more in depth descriptions. This
gauge has several patented features that will not be found on any other gauge.”
Some examples of available parameters are:
• RPM
• MPH
• Intake Air Temperature pre intercooler
• Intake Air Temperature post Intercooler *
• Mass Air Flow Sensor Frequency *
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (lb/min.)
• Engine Coolant Temperature
• Injector Pulse Width
• Long Term Fuel Trim
• Short Term Fuel Trim
• O2 Sensor Voltage
• Manifold Pressure in PSI (Boost pressure)
• Supercharger Inlet Pressure *
• Ignition Advance
• Knock Retard *
• Engine Run Time
• Battery Voltage
• Throttle Position Percentage
• Engine Load
• Instantaneous fuel economy
• Horsepower
• Analog input #1
• Analog input #2
7) The SSC lowering springs: Being a very strong believer in using only Eibach springs for all my previous cars. It was hard to convince me into getting anything else, but after exchanging e-mails with ZZP and inquiring about the SSC springs that they carry, I was convinced. I took the chance and ordered them. I am really impressed by the price, quality, ride and the drop rate that these springs have given me. No more 4x4 cobalt. My car sits equal stance from front to back now. The ride is very similar to stock (comfort wise) and the handling is nothing short of amazing.
In this picture you can clearly see my lowered Cobalt (right) compared to a stock one.
8) The VOODOO boost controller: This thought was brought to us by member “JMC007”. Why use a boost controller that was built for turbo cars? Well in a supercharged application like ours, it works in controlling the amount of boost and not increasing it. Let me explain further: By changing to a smaller pulley you increase the range of boost from 11 PSI to 20+ PSI. Example: With a 2.6 inch pulley, I can boost to 20 PSI + on a cold day, which is too much for my supporting mods right now. I still want to keep all that low end torque that comes in very early with the 2.6 inch pulley. So that is when the boost controller comes in handy, and limits the boost at the level you want. I set it to a safe 17 PSI. Why? Because, I am only running 42# Injectors right now. If I want to increase boost and stay on the safe side, I am going to need more fuel.
How to install:
I did not write any “how to install” this time around. They have already been done by members here on cobaltss.net:
Click on the links to view these “How to Install”:
1. Injectors
2. Aeroforce Gauge
3. Front Lowering springs
4. Back Lowering springs
5. Modular pulley Install
6. Boost controller
Dyno Runs:
To view the results of the Dyno sheets, please click on the following links:
(Dyno done on June 22, 2006)
Baseline: Dyno run 2005 Cobalt SS/SC , 30 C˚ outside temp, 78% humidity, 90-106 C˚ coolant temp, 91 Octane Pump Gas.
194 HP / 183 ft-torque@5891RPM - Mustang DYNO
Corrected: 223 HP / 210Ft-Torque@5891RPM
BASELINE:
(Dyno done on June 22, 2006)
Sheet 1: Dyno run 2005 Cobalt SS/SC with AEM intake, 30 C˚ outside temp, 78% humidity, 90-106 C˚ coolant temp, 91 Octane Pump Gas.
202 HP / 189 ft-torque@5891RPM - Mustang DYNO
Corrected: 232 HP / 217Ft-Torque@5891RPM
SHEET 1:
(Dyno done on July 11, 2006)
Sheet 2: Dyno run#1 2005 Cobalt SS/SC, AEM intake, 3” ZZP pulley, 36 C˚ outside temp, 90% humidity, 90-106 C˚ coolant temp, 94 Octane Pump Gas.
201 HP / 204 ft-torque@5200RPM - Mustang DYNO
Corrected: 231 HP / 234Ft-Torque@5200RPM
SHEET 2:
(Dyno done on August 16, 2006)
Sheet 3: Dyno run#1 2005 Cobalt SS/SC, AEM intake, 2.6” ZZP Pulley, 42# Lucas Injectors,
MAFT (E3 setting), 1 step colder NGK plugs (0.35 gap), Boost controller (17 PSI),
24 C˚ outside temp, 50% humidity, 90-106 C˚ coolant temp, 94 Octane Pump Gas.
242HP / 236ft-torque@6300RPM - Mustang DYNO
Corrected: 278 HP / 271Ft-Torque@6300RPM
SHEET 3:
*Waiting for Dyno sheet, printer at the Dyno shop broke.
Some AEROFORCE INTERCEPTOR OBD2 readings:
Here are a few of the readings I saw with my Interceptor gauge:
• Knock Retard : I used to get 3-5 degree of knock, all from 4000 to 6500 RPM and only slight knock of 0.3-0.7 degrees when changing gears. I finally cured the knock, after days and days of research and feedback from members. I adjusted the MAFT to settings Base = E (10% leaner) and WOT = 3 (6% richer). Why was it knocking before? I think it’s because the settings that Intense-Racing used (Base= C (25% leaner) and WOT =1 (2% richer) were tested on a stock OEM Intake and not a High flow intake like: AEM, K&N, INJEN.
• Air Intake Temp 1 : Average 80-110 degree’s, all depends on outside temps
• Air Intake Temp 2 : Average 130 degree’s and 150 degree’s when boosting to redline
• O2 Sensor : At full boost of 17 PSI, I got 850-880 MV
• Boost Pressure : I got 14 PSI as early as 4000 RPM and 17 PSI to redline (locked with Boost controller)
• Timing Advance : I got 12 Degrees of timing when boosting to redline
• Injector Pulse Width : I got 18.9MS at around 6000rpm
Street racing:
The added performance of the 2.6 inch pulley really shines on the street, boost is instantaneous, reaching 15 PSI before even hitting 3000rpm on a hot humid day. This time I got lucky and got 2 challengers on my way home.
Victim number one
As soon as I leave the Dyno shop, a white lowered Honda civic starts to follow me really close. I look at my rear view mirror and I see an intercooler in his front bumper. Right there and then, I knew, I was going to have fun. I get to the light to turn left, he gets right beside me, he looks at me and gives me a smile and I nod back at him: “I am ready when you are” light turns green, we both turn left. On first gear we turn, then I shift in second gear and we are now side by side, then right away we both punch it. I gain immediately 1 full car length on him and the road ahead is clear. He is trying to get closer but at this point I already have 2 car lengths on him. Accepting defeat he then turns right at the next stop sign and doesn’t even look back at me. What kind of engine did he have? I don’t know, but by the look of his front mount Intercooler setup and sound of the Blow off valve releasing boost when he shifted, there is no mistaking, that it was turbocharged.
Victim number two
Next challenger wasn’t much of a race but still fun, a silver Nissan 350Z cruising on the highway, we got side by side, and he proceeds to beep his horn, like I didn’t already notice him. I look beside me and there he is looking straight at me with his game face on. He gives me the standard 3 honks so obviously this guy has street raced before. It was a close race but I got a full car length on him and he shut her down and left me alone after that.
Like many others, I have a hard time resisting a street challenge. Really, we should keep the racing for the track and that’s exactly what I plan on doing. I’m not taking anymore risks; it’s just not worth it.
My next reviews:
1) 3” JBP Vortex Stainless Steel Exhaust: With my current modifications, the stock exhaust is showing signs of restriction.
2) New Era Performance: For custom Dyno / HP tuners tune and 60# Injectors.
3) Still looking at my options for:
• New Heat Exchanger
• Water and Methanol Injection kit
• Header and downpipe
• High Flow cat
• New tires
You can purchase all these products from are supporting vendors right here on cobaltss.net.
Denny Medeiros is also author of:
THE COBALT SS/SC: GOT BOOST?
THE COBALT SS/SC: TIME TO BREATHE!
The Cobalt SS/SC: Traction-less no more!
A DREAM COME TRUE: The Supercharged Chevy Cobalt SS.
By: Denny Medeiros, Cobaltss.net
Introduction:
After only a few weeks of running the 3 inch pulley, it’s now time for me to join in on the ranks of the speed demons. I swear this stuff is more addictive then any drug known to man. It’s very hard to stop modifying your car, when oil and gas have been running through your veins for over 15 years now. From boosted Acura’s to 400HP Turbo Eclipse’s and now the Cobalt SS/SC. Needless to say, I am addicted and loving every minute of it.
The Recipe:
First let me introduce the products in question:
1) ZZP 2.6 inch pulley
2) ZZP adjustable tensioner
3) 42# Lucas Injectors and Casper Injector Harness
4) MAFT
5) NGK BKR7E 1 step colder gapped at 0.35
6) Aeroforce Interceptor
7) ZZP SSC lowering springs
8) Voodoo Boost controller
Brief description of these products:
1) The 2.6 Inch ZZP pulley: Since I am planning on keeping the stock 6500rpm redline, the 2.6 inch pulley won’t be over spinning the M-62 GEN5 supercharger. I also wanted to open up my boost range so I could control it with my Boost controller (more on this later). Just like ZZP claimed, the ZZP 2.6 inch pulley doesn’t require machining of the supercharger’s nozzle. If your supercharger nozzle is not perfectly round then you may have to grind a little bit of material to clear the pulley.
2) The ZZP adjustable tensioner: It is well known that smaller pulleys have fewer surfaces contacting the belt. This mandates a higher tension to prevent belt slip. The ZZP adjustable tensioner solves this problem by giving you full adjustability. It is mandatory for maximizing your engine’s potential when running smaller pulleys. It comes anodized in black. The pivot center is CNC machined from 303 stainless steel and uses the same type of Teflon coated bearings as the factory tensioner. It is O-ring sealed at both ends and is 1/2 the weight of the stock tensioner further improving performance. With the ZZP adjustable tensioner, a force much higher than stock can be achieved. This eliminates belt slip and maximizes boost!
3) The 42# Lucas Injectors and the Casper Injector Harness: According to the research done so far, these injectors can pump out enough fuel for a maximum output of 270HP-280HP. For your Information these injectors matched to our stock fuel pressure of 60PSI, makes these 42# Lucas injectors, act more like 50# injectors.
4) The MAFT: It may not be an accurate tuning tool like HPtuners, but for now till the end of September it will do. I am planning a visit to Rochester, New York. I am going to visit Mike, owner of New Era Performance and a supporting vendor on this site, for a custom tune for my car. I am very excited about this. Look for a full write up by the end of September about the whole experience. I was using my MAFT with the most popular settings switch: (on, off, off, off) and BASE: C and WOT: 1, but I was experiencing 3-5 degrees of knock from 4K to Redline. After much research and testing I now set it at BASE: E and WOT: 3 and I am not experiencing anymore knock.
5) The NGK BKR7E: We have seen a great deal of debates over the past few weeks in this forum. What kind of plugs to run? What gap? Should it be 1 step colder or 2 Step colder? Well, I concluded that the NGK BKR7E (1 step colder) with a gap of 0.35 was the best combo for the LSJ, with my specific upgrades. That’s just my personal opinion. The more boost the smaller the gap.
6) The Aeroforce Interceptor gauge: What a great tool. It’s an absolute must to monitor engine functions when upping the power on your engine. Here is a description of the gauge taken from the Aeroforce web page.
“The Interceptor is a powerful 2 1/16" gauge that reads, displays, and records
any two of up to 28* important engine operating parameters, as well as
functions as a highly accurate shift light and performance timer. These
parameters are accessed via the vehicle's OBD2 port (diagnostic port located
under the dash). This is critical data necessary for performance tuning and
problem diagnosis. The Interceptor also reads and clears DTC's (Diagnostic
Trouble Codes) and now has two user configurable analog inputs. Click on
the appropriate application to the left for more in depth descriptions. This
gauge has several patented features that will not be found on any other gauge.”
Some examples of available parameters are:
• RPM
• MPH
• Intake Air Temperature pre intercooler
• Intake Air Temperature post Intercooler *
• Mass Air Flow Sensor Frequency *
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (lb/min.)
• Engine Coolant Temperature
• Injector Pulse Width
• Long Term Fuel Trim
• Short Term Fuel Trim
• O2 Sensor Voltage
• Manifold Pressure in PSI (Boost pressure)
• Supercharger Inlet Pressure *
• Ignition Advance
• Knock Retard *
• Engine Run Time
• Battery Voltage
• Throttle Position Percentage
• Engine Load
• Instantaneous fuel economy
• Horsepower
• Analog input #1
• Analog input #2
7) The SSC lowering springs: Being a very strong believer in using only Eibach springs for all my previous cars. It was hard to convince me into getting anything else, but after exchanging e-mails with ZZP and inquiring about the SSC springs that they carry, I was convinced. I took the chance and ordered them. I am really impressed by the price, quality, ride and the drop rate that these springs have given me. No more 4x4 cobalt. My car sits equal stance from front to back now. The ride is very similar to stock (comfort wise) and the handling is nothing short of amazing.
In this picture you can clearly see my lowered Cobalt (right) compared to a stock one.
8) The VOODOO boost controller: This thought was brought to us by member “JMC007”. Why use a boost controller that was built for turbo cars? Well in a supercharged application like ours, it works in controlling the amount of boost and not increasing it. Let me explain further: By changing to a smaller pulley you increase the range of boost from 11 PSI to 20+ PSI. Example: With a 2.6 inch pulley, I can boost to 20 PSI + on a cold day, which is too much for my supporting mods right now. I still want to keep all that low end torque that comes in very early with the 2.6 inch pulley. So that is when the boost controller comes in handy, and limits the boost at the level you want. I set it to a safe 17 PSI. Why? Because, I am only running 42# Injectors right now. If I want to increase boost and stay on the safe side, I am going to need more fuel.
How to install:
I did not write any “how to install” this time around. They have already been done by members here on cobaltss.net:
Click on the links to view these “How to Install”:
1. Injectors
2. Aeroforce Gauge
3. Front Lowering springs
4. Back Lowering springs
5. Modular pulley Install
6. Boost controller
Dyno Runs:
To view the results of the Dyno sheets, please click on the following links:
(Dyno done on June 22, 2006)
Baseline: Dyno run 2005 Cobalt SS/SC , 30 C˚ outside temp, 78% humidity, 90-106 C˚ coolant temp, 91 Octane Pump Gas.
194 HP / 183 ft-torque@5891RPM - Mustang DYNO
Corrected: 223 HP / 210Ft-Torque@5891RPM
BASELINE:
(Dyno done on June 22, 2006)
Sheet 1: Dyno run 2005 Cobalt SS/SC with AEM intake, 30 C˚ outside temp, 78% humidity, 90-106 C˚ coolant temp, 91 Octane Pump Gas.
202 HP / 189 ft-torque@5891RPM - Mustang DYNO
Corrected: 232 HP / 217Ft-Torque@5891RPM
SHEET 1:
(Dyno done on July 11, 2006)
Sheet 2: Dyno run#1 2005 Cobalt SS/SC, AEM intake, 3” ZZP pulley, 36 C˚ outside temp, 90% humidity, 90-106 C˚ coolant temp, 94 Octane Pump Gas.
201 HP / 204 ft-torque@5200RPM - Mustang DYNO
Corrected: 231 HP / 234Ft-Torque@5200RPM
SHEET 2:
(Dyno done on August 16, 2006)
Sheet 3: Dyno run#1 2005 Cobalt SS/SC, AEM intake, 2.6” ZZP Pulley, 42# Lucas Injectors,
MAFT (E3 setting), 1 step colder NGK plugs (0.35 gap), Boost controller (17 PSI),
24 C˚ outside temp, 50% humidity, 90-106 C˚ coolant temp, 94 Octane Pump Gas.
242HP / 236ft-torque@6300RPM - Mustang DYNO
Corrected: 278 HP / 271Ft-Torque@6300RPM
SHEET 3:
*Waiting for Dyno sheet, printer at the Dyno shop broke.
Some AEROFORCE INTERCEPTOR OBD2 readings:
Here are a few of the readings I saw with my Interceptor gauge:
• Knock Retard : I used to get 3-5 degree of knock, all from 4000 to 6500 RPM and only slight knock of 0.3-0.7 degrees when changing gears. I finally cured the knock, after days and days of research and feedback from members. I adjusted the MAFT to settings Base = E (10% leaner) and WOT = 3 (6% richer). Why was it knocking before? I think it’s because the settings that Intense-Racing used (Base= C (25% leaner) and WOT =1 (2% richer) were tested on a stock OEM Intake and not a High flow intake like: AEM, K&N, INJEN.
• Air Intake Temp 1 : Average 80-110 degree’s, all depends on outside temps
• Air Intake Temp 2 : Average 130 degree’s and 150 degree’s when boosting to redline
• O2 Sensor : At full boost of 17 PSI, I got 850-880 MV
• Boost Pressure : I got 14 PSI as early as 4000 RPM and 17 PSI to redline (locked with Boost controller)
• Timing Advance : I got 12 Degrees of timing when boosting to redline
• Injector Pulse Width : I got 18.9MS at around 6000rpm
Street racing:
The added performance of the 2.6 inch pulley really shines on the street, boost is instantaneous, reaching 15 PSI before even hitting 3000rpm on a hot humid day. This time I got lucky and got 2 challengers on my way home.
Victim number one
As soon as I leave the Dyno shop, a white lowered Honda civic starts to follow me really close. I look at my rear view mirror and I see an intercooler in his front bumper. Right there and then, I knew, I was going to have fun. I get to the light to turn left, he gets right beside me, he looks at me and gives me a smile and I nod back at him: “I am ready when you are” light turns green, we both turn left. On first gear we turn, then I shift in second gear and we are now side by side, then right away we both punch it. I gain immediately 1 full car length on him and the road ahead is clear. He is trying to get closer but at this point I already have 2 car lengths on him. Accepting defeat he then turns right at the next stop sign and doesn’t even look back at me. What kind of engine did he have? I don’t know, but by the look of his front mount Intercooler setup and sound of the Blow off valve releasing boost when he shifted, there is no mistaking, that it was turbocharged.
Victim number two
Next challenger wasn’t much of a race but still fun, a silver Nissan 350Z cruising on the highway, we got side by side, and he proceeds to beep his horn, like I didn’t already notice him. I look beside me and there he is looking straight at me with his game face on. He gives me the standard 3 honks so obviously this guy has street raced before. It was a close race but I got a full car length on him and he shut her down and left me alone after that.
Like many others, I have a hard time resisting a street challenge. Really, we should keep the racing for the track and that’s exactly what I plan on doing. I’m not taking anymore risks; it’s just not worth it.
My next reviews:
1) 3” JBP Vortex Stainless Steel Exhaust: With my current modifications, the stock exhaust is showing signs of restriction.
2) New Era Performance: For custom Dyno / HP tuners tune and 60# Injectors.
3) Still looking at my options for:
• New Heat Exchanger
• Water and Methanol Injection kit
• Header and downpipe
• High Flow cat
• New tires
You can purchase all these products from are supporting vendors right here on cobaltss.net.
Denny Medeiros is also author of:
THE COBALT SS/SC: GOT BOOST?
THE COBALT SS/SC: TIME TO BREATHE!
The Cobalt SS/SC: Traction-less no more!
A DREAM COME TRUE: The Supercharged Chevy Cobalt SS.
Last edited by denny; 08-18-2006 at 08:57 AM.
08-18-2006, 12:09 AM
#3
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WOW, Really nice numbers. I see you hitting 300hp with a decent tune. BTW: You have a PM
I looked at the springs, and the price is AWSOME. I, too have liked Eibach, but after this, i might need to try the ZZP.
I looked at the springs, and the price is AWSOME. I, too have liked Eibach, but after this, i might need to try the ZZP.
08-18-2006, 12:12 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by hatrickstu
hey man cool post and all but there is no way those 42.5 lb injectors supply enough fuel for a 2.6, ask the intense guys
I have a boost controller (limiting boost to 17PSI) no knock and 12.0 AFR. So yes my 42# are enough for 17PSI.
08-18-2006, 12:33 AM
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Maybe it's just me, but I don't see the point in wasting the money on a MAF-T and 42.5# injectors that you will not need in another month. Not to mention the risk you are taking with it not being very accurate.
It also seems wasteful to spin the s/c that fast and not using all the air it's moving. the just results in unnecessary drag.
I guess my question is: Why waste money to half ass it and then do right a month later?
It also seems wasteful to spin the s/c that fast and not using all the air it's moving. the just results in unnecessary drag.
I guess my question is: Why waste money to half ass it and then do right a month later?
Last edited by Cobalt_Supercharged; 08-18-2006 at 01:53 AM.
08-18-2006, 01:43 AM
#10
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
Why would you use a 2.6 pulley with 42# injectors 
Why not just buy the 60# injectors when you got all the other stuff???
Why not just buy the 60# injectors when you got all the other stuff???Plus they're only about 40 bucks more
08-18-2006, 03:55 AM
#11
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what hes trying to do is maximize boost using the smaller injectors (boost controller). Its not always about throwing on a 1.9inch pulley and 78lb/hr injectors and telling everyone that you hit 30psi.
08-18-2006, 05:16 AM
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all i know is that most of the people on here are running these small ass pully's and all these mods and running 14.0 14.1 13.9 there are a few running the times they should be but most are running high times for all the mods they have i dont know what the deal is but when i had a gtp the fuel injectors were the last thing i did , it was all exhaust and intake work and smaller pully's before messing with the boost i would run hp tuners intake exhaust header and downpipe with about 14 to 15 pounds of boost before i would run intake and 18 or 19 pounds of boost with bigger injectors and a stage tune thats the problem no one is custom tuning there cars themselfs you want ZERO KNOCK not 3 not 5 not even 1.2 you want 0.0
08-18-2006, 08:18 AM
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nice write up, I think the 42lb injectors will be just fine if you don't plan on increasing the rpm limit.
your going to love the JBP exhaust, I jot the JBP cat/downpipe & exhaust, it sounds awesome, really deep low tone, it's just a little laud for my taste but there is a huge difference in performance.
your going to love the JBP exhaust, I jot the JBP cat/downpipe & exhaust, it sounds awesome, really deep low tone, it's just a little laud for my taste but there is a huge difference in performance.
08-18-2006, 10:50 AM
#17
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how about links to each ingrediant
1) ZZP 2.6 inch pulley
2) ZZP adjustable tensioner
3) 42# Lucas Injectors and Casper Injector Harness
4) MAFT
5) NGK BKR7E 1 step colder gapped at 0.35
6) Aeroforce Interceptor
7) ZZP SSC lowering springs
8) Voodoo Boost controller
pls?
1) ZZP 2.6 inch pulley
2) ZZP adjustable tensioner
3) 42# Lucas Injectors and Casper Injector Harness
4) MAFT
5) NGK BKR7E 1 step colder gapped at 0.35
6) Aeroforce Interceptor
7) ZZP SSC lowering springs
8) Voodoo Boost controller
pls?
08-18-2006, 11:02 AM
#19
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Join Date: 12-31-05
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denny if you wouldnt mind can you email all the crap that you went through to get things straightened out ? I think I am going to follow your setup to a tee, and I dont want to blow anything up.
frank.robbins23@gmail.com
frank.robbins23@gmail.com
08-18-2006, 12:22 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by 1stbluSS
denny if you wouldnt mind can you email all the crap that you went through to get things straightened out ? I think I am going to follow your setup to a tee, and I dont want to blow anything up.
frank.robbins23@gmail.com
frank.robbins23@gmail.com
Frank,
Just read all my "articles/how to install" one by one and you will see the setup to a tee.
08-18-2006, 12:23 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by cobss187
what hes trying to do is maximize boost using the smaller injectors (boost controller). Its not always about throwing on a 1.9inch pulley and 78lb/hr injectors and telling everyone that you hit 30psi.
08-18-2006, 12:24 PM
#25
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Denny can you hit me up with a thorough write up of the challenges you faced getting this setup perfected. I will purchase the same parts as you and keep my boost to 17 psi. I just want to make sure I do everything correctly.