Originally Posted by Staged07SS

It's not hard to do at all with everything left in place. I wouldnt dick around removing more than you have to....

Originally Posted by chris88z24

Idk, I've done the tstat twice since 2007 and there's no way I could have gotten that one bolt out with the oil pump there. Maybe you could turn the bolt 10 degrees at a time but my huge hands couldn't get the socket down there lol.

Originally Posted by Spawne32

Id like to add an update to this thread for anyone interested. There are two different styles of thermostat's available for all ecotec motors. While most part's websites will not list these two, they are GM equivalent and aftermarket upgrade tstats for our cars.

You can find gates or stant thermostats in two different flavors. OE Exact and OE Type. Both of which are 180 degree thermostats, both behave differently in terms of the amount of coolant they can flow, and the rate at which they open. If you are looking for OE cooling characteristics then you want to use the OE Exact thermostat which is an exact replica of the OEM GM replacement (Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 12615097, 12622410, 131139, 55350941, 90537453).

The OE Type thermostat is a slightly larger thermostat with a heavier spring and upgraded weir valve. This thermostat will open to full faster, and close faster as the car cools down, thus maintaining a lower operating temperature using the thermostat alone. These two style of thermostats are sold by GATES and STANT (under the brand name "superstat"). Both are made by the same manufacturer. Stant describes the superstat (gates OE "type" style) as the following...

Stant's SuperStat® uses a high flow venturi for maximum cooling capacity during high temperature, high load operation and employs a unique Weir Valve® for precise flow metering during cold weather, light load operation to ensure stable temperature control under all conditions.

The high strength stainless steel flange is burnished to a bright finish for additional stress relief and added corrosion resistance.

The Stant SuperStat® thermostat is also thicker than most competitor thermostats and our standard reverse poppet thermostat for added strength and longer life.

The power element of SuperStat® is comparable to those used in heavy-duty trucks. Its actuator piston is larger in diameter than the standard thermostat and competitive product. This larger piston delivers 1 1/2 times the power of our standard thermostat and almost 2 1/2 times as much power as the competition for enhanced durability and longer life.

The opening spring of the Stant SuperStat® thermostat is designed with a load that is 50% stronger than our standard reverse poppet thermostat. This heavy-duty spring helps return the thermostat to the closed position and prevent cold running, even under the most adverse conditions. Features and Benefits

Using the navigates system (NaviGates) gates lists the following part numbers for the 2006 Cobalt SS.

OE Exact Thermostat - 180° Reverse Poppet (2 17/64" x 11/16" x 1 3/16") w/1 Seal Part# 34025

OE Type Thermostat - 180º Reverse Poppet (2 17/64" x 7/8" x 1 13/64") w/1 Seal Part# 33943

ACDELCO also offers a replacement thermostat for our car's, the ACDELCO thermostat eliminates the use of the center seal for when the thermostat gets stuck. This is often the seal that people find missing around the center of their thermostat. I personally do not recommend using this as the replacement as that seal is there for a purpose in case of failure, Coolant is still allowed to pass by the tstat.

Why upgrade the thermostat you ask? Well a 160* thermostat is just far too cold for these car's to run efficiently. 180* is perfect, but the way the OEM tstat behaves, most people find consistently average coolant temps above 200 degree's. While the cooling fans themselves dont turn on until above 220 on most car's.

This upgraded thermostat along with 70/30 (water/coolant) coolant and a bottle of water wetter from redline. My car will average between 192-195 at idle in traffic in even the hottest weather. Never having the need to get close to the temp the fans turn on at.

Here's a couple pictures for reference, a blown OEM thermostat on the left vs a brand new gates oe type 33943 180 degree tstat.

Originally Posted by chris88z24

Ps my tune has 100% fans at 180.

Originally Posted by chris88z24

The highest I've seen was 187 after idling for 30 minutes with the a/c on when it was 92 degrees outside. The SS has an awesome cooling system.

Ps my tune has 100% fans at 180.

Originally Posted by Spawne32

and you have been able to run that for an extended period of time? I tried that once and soon as they turned both fuses blew. Wasn't able to run anymore then 85% or the fuses would pop. I was told by hptuners that they were never designed to run at 100%.

Originally Posted by Efer Rite Ina P

Ive been trying to change my tstat for an hr now with no luck. I just cant get that front bolt!! What is that cylinder shaped housing right above the front bolt? Can i remove that?

Originally Posted by sscruiser

ya I have been trying to figure that out too any one know ????

Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1

That's the cam position sensor housing, i'd suggest you don't remove that unless you absolutely must, as it will move when you take it out and you will have to re-time it after, which can be a pain if you've never done it before.

Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1

You have to set the engine to TDC on #4 cyl, then align the notch on the cam sensor drive with the notch on the cam sensor housing, then install it.

Originally Posted by Elizabeth LaCroix

Hello Gents,

Im kind of new at maintaining my own car since my divorce. My Engine Coolant temperature indicator is this "---". but, then suddenly it comes back on and indicates the internal engine temperature, then it comes back to to being three dashes. Since i am SUCH a girl in these matters, and dont have any male friends to "lend a hand" can you tell me please, if it's my ECT Sensor or the thermostat or does it need antifreeze?

im scared to drive the bloody thing in fear of it blowing the engine up or something since i cannot see the engine's internal temperature. Im unable to take it to the dealership as i once did when i was married. I have to learn how to maintain my own for the first time. It was only last week i found out how to replace my own wiper blades, and put washer fluid in my car.

So, in closing, Id appreciate it gents or gals, if you could assist me in figuring out why my engine's internal temperature has "---".

Thanks for you attention in this manner,
Elizabeth

Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1

The --- display is usually a faulty engine temperature sensor, it's the one right on the front/top of the engine by the upper radiator hose. It could be a wiring fault but it's normally the sensor.

Originally Posted by Elizabeth LaCroix

thank you soooo much. im daft when it comes to my car... i dont want to blow the thing up as i love my baby girl.

it the engine temperature sensor easy to change?

and another question.

"is it safe for a engine temp to be at 200+ (when the temp gauge actually works)? someone told me it was safe...but i dont believe them.

thank you for your time.