Treadstone stage 4 install!
Another thing, I am on another site where bad language is not allowed. It makes for a pleasant change. Here it sure is tiresome to pay to be a vendor here and read db's swearing, and peeps acting out like grade schoolers.
maybe they are...
MTE looking at your first posts I am wondering was the stud missing where the leak was? Sure would look like it. With the shop you are dealing with and Italian Joe tuning I would say your problems will be over soon....enjoy your ride!
Im with Blazin on this one. A regular stand up guy is Blazin. Happy to know him, and always a pleasure to meet with him. Same goes for the ZZP guys, stand up and good to meet and hang with as they grind out the 1320....
Another thing, I am on another site where bad language is not allowed. It makes for a pleasant change. Here it sure is tiresome to pay to be a vendor here and read db's swearing, and peeps acting out like grade schoolers.
maybe they are...
Another thing, I am on another site where bad language is not allowed. It makes for a pleasant change. Here it sure is tiresome to pay to be a vendor here and read db's swearing, and peeps acting out like grade schoolers.
maybe they are...
nope not you,in fact I agree with you...but the language thing in print is different from cussing around at the shop. its getting tiresome like you say. Good for MTE to get his car rockin' not a fan of cheap intercoolers, but thats the path he has chosen, Italian Joe will tune it right.
torque wrench and loctite into the studs. some folks tend to wind in the studs with the nuts on if they come out that way, and thats not good. Gotta take the nuts off the studs, loctite the studs and torque them in off the torx head and then torque the nuts etc in a pattern 89 inch lbs- its in the manual but basically a spiral star from middle out...
seems to me, correct me if I am wrong, you said the price was low or words to that effect.
I am a fan of garret cores. Your choice is made, but read this, it is a good research piece and good info.
ARE Cooling (Aluminium Radiators & Engineering P/L)
I am a fan of garret cores. Your choice is made, but read this, it is a good research piece and good info.
ARE Cooling (Aluminium Radiators & Engineering P/L)
seems to me, correct me if I am wrong, you said the price was low or words to that effect.
I am a fan of garret cores. Your choice is made, but read this, it is a good research piece and good info.
ARE Cooling (Aluminium Radiators & Engineering P/L)
I am a fan of garret cores. Your choice is made, but read this, it is a good research piece and good info.
ARE Cooling (Aluminium Radiators & Engineering P/L)
at the end of the day its what ever you have , you have to be comfortable with. The only folks who really do r&d here (other than me) is ZZP. And ZZP got everyone covered here as far as real current stuff on engines. Period.
And as far as IC are concerned, the only current research I did on IC for LNF was on an ETS. Looked at it, measured it, looked at again, kicked it around the shop with the fabbie, and researched ( see link for part of that) and then called werkes in Chicago and said "ship one of your garret cores danno!" or words to that effect.
And as far as IC are concerned, the only current research I did on IC for LNF was on an ETS. Looked at it, measured it, looked at again, kicked it around the shop with the fabbie, and researched ( see link for part of that) and then called werkes in Chicago and said "ship one of your garret cores danno!" or words to that effect.
Using just a boost controller actually does cause drivability issues .. you calling for a.commanded dal and mal and also using proprtional, integral, and deriative gains and a wgdc. So therefore the ecm willl act as if its failing somewhere .... I've tuned.plenty enough of Tq based ecms to know what im talking about. The drivability issues may not be badly affected.but the cars power may or may not surge in areas or the car will shutter, stutter ect..
Yes you can disable all the codes, woopdy doo. But it still doesn't matter.. the car will act differently to just a manual boost controller then to the cars actual controller with a possible online manual controller.
Yes you can disable all the codes, woopdy doo. But it still doesn't matter.. the car will act differently to just a manual boost controller then to the cars actual controller with a possible online manual controller.
We've set up several LNF turbo swap cars with boost controllers and they drive completely normal. It's not that difficult. I would say it is easier than making the required adjustments to the boost control tables for a larger compressor and completely different wastegate type and spring pressure.
Matt all you do is talk ****.. shut your mouth. troll. I stated it causes drivability issues so it shouldn't be done yes.. did i say it'll be bad bad no I didn't. I never went back to somthing else.
Rod, cuz I'm bsing because in reality and in fact I can do somthing. Hmmm really... You both just need to get out of the thread with Ure useless posting.... My posts have reasoning.
Rod, cuz I'm bsing because in reality and in fact I can do somthing. Hmmm really... You both just need to get out of the thread with Ure useless posting.... My posts have reasoning.
I swear you guys have issues...... Did I ever say I had issues . No ..... I have tuned plenty enough cars with just a boost controller... Lnf wise meaning.... And didn't have issues. But the fact is which was bluntley stated by one of your own. It will have drivability differences.... So get the hell off my back .. ..
So putting words in my mouth. Hmm seems like a zzp thing to do.. I never said not to use a boost controller.. i said it will have drivability issues meaning differences...
Of course I felt obligated to make a comment. You were trying to teach the LNF community that they can't use manual boost controllers on turbo swaps. Any time someone insists upon something that I know to be false, I will comment.(As long as it is reasonably important information relating to the community.)
Words in your mouth? We quoted you and then commented. I never said "driveability differences." I said "differences" without any other words connected. The differences are that you can get full boost at lower throttle if the ecm is not able to back off the boost control duty cycle as well. It's not a big deal because you can get used to pushing the throttle less or you can set the dals to target a little less airload through the middle of the chart.
Last edited by Matt M; Feb 18, 2012 at 11:14 PM.
When someone tries to spread false information, that will sometimes happen. We don't let that stuff become the new "truth" out in the community. It's tough to un-do false information later if you let it go now.
Aside from that, I was far from bragging about anything.
Aside from that, I was far from bragging about anything.
Look I'm not trying to argue. In fact I'm tired of it.... I know the differences. Some people like them some don't. And the post was you saying I was trying to teach the lnf community they couldn't use a boost controller. Why would I say that when in fact I use one . I was saying there will be drivability differences.
heres the new thread, so no moar arguing etc.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...4-dyno-272110/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...4-dyno-272110/
Matt since I have you hear.. I have three customers wanting a new build. I told them not to sleeve since I did and I had.issues so I had to redo it my self.. they want the Gurdled block. It's a good setup. So my question is how long will it take to get one out .
Honestly, Todd is backed up pretty bad right now. He is trying to keep up, but it is our busiest time of year and there are several on back-order.
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