iirc he said 11.9 is what he brough it to

 

Right, which is why the spark is low...

but he should have made you run richer, which would have eliminated kr to an extent.

 

i crammed 23 degree's down a stage2 07 last month on the rollers and the afr was in the mid 11's. double edge sword. screwed either direction you go with it.

just because it will do it on the rollers doesn't mean it will do it on the street.

 

I think thats your favorite term... double edged sword.. but i cant really think of any other metaphor that can describe it any better.

Area, would you rather cut into the afr, or the spark?

 

Post #81 (Omega_5) is the best post of this whole thread....lol.

 

Lol.. i wanna know what the deleted post was.

 

i may use it a lot, but it is true.

you have to find the happy medium between the two. most timing you can run on the street, and at a safe afr as well. most street cars i send out are sitting at 11.3 afr, unless other wise wanted by the owner. then waivers come into play to protect myself. you get the idea.

 

Would that number change if u switched to turbo? considering there is a little less heating going on?

also, you should change your spark first right? It seems that if you do your afrs first, then change spark, your changing how much fuel is being burned so it will throw off your calibration... no?

 

when you get rid of the adders on the timing side of it. it drops the timing down a lot. gives you room the play with before you start adding it back in.

 

It seems that those adders get in the way and just change things when u dont want them changed.

im guessing it makes things more managable to remove some of the PE adders too?

 

the iat/ect/afr adders on the timing side of it. leave the high temp ones in there, or increase them. take out some of the lower ones. im a control freak when it comes to certain things

 

Yea, if you want something setup the way you want it, and the damn computer keeps changing it, id be a freak about it to.

That egt gauge seems helpful in letting you know when your pushing a little bit too far.

Im a bit stuck on how you would try to increase the power... I mean after leveling everything out... Do you add fuel by changing injector offsets, while still keeping it at a leaner AFR... i mean dialing it in to a 11.5 AFR and adjusting the spark accordingly is nice and all, but it just doesnt seem like the path stops there...

 

maf scaling

 

would that be on the same table that you change when you do your fuel trims?

 

Maf fqz

 

Yes.