Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
I was holding down vacuum just fine as well as boost when I had a crap load of leakage in my whip. The biggest way I could tell is that my car's AFR's were leaning out intermittently at idle. Not too mention my rpm's were jumping when it leaned out as well. Just saying...
As with anytime you mod a car and pushing 100+ more whp then stock. So far ive been impressed with what the stock components can handle. I do my oil changes when the oil life counter is around 30-35% and don't go into boost until the car is warmed up. it's only a matter of time, but the fact of the matter is if you treat your car right and go for a reasonable amount of power you don't need a stage 4+ clutch or a built engine with all the bells and whistles.
Lol that's the last word I would use to describe my driving, my buddies describe me as the granny of the group :P I only push my car when I need to really, and even then I'm careful lol. And I'm also all about that meticulous maintenance, Royal Purple every time the counter gets down to around 40%, about every 3 months.
As with anytime you mod a car and pushing 100+ more whp then stock. So far ive been impressed with what the stock components can handle. I do my oil changes when the oil life counter is around 30-35% and don't go into boost until the car is warmed up. it's only a matter of time, but the fact of the matter is if you treat your car right and go for a reasonable amount of power you don't need a stage 4+ clutch or a built engine with all the bells and whistles.
but i get what you're saying. gm definitely did it right with this engine. to be able to mod a car with a nice turbo setup and push 425whp on a stock trans without even opening the engine is pretty remarkable for a 4cyl.
clutch i would say is hit or miss. sure the driver plays a factor, but not as big of one as people think. torque and powerband are what's going to bring down it's life. the stock lnf clutch isn't bad.. but the fact people are hitting 420ftlbs by 4k rpms is just retarded for its life. same with the lsj. for the m62 it's fine. people don't make more than 270-280ftlbs even on the tvs. but when you go turbo if you're hitting 350-360 torque like that down low it will definitely shorten the life.
but a clutch is an item that there's a fine line to. longevity or holding capabilities. even on a stock car, in it's lifetime the clutch will need to be replaced. so the manufacturer has to put a clutch in that will have both as much holding force and longevity as possible.
Last edited by EXsoccer1921; Apr 14, 2013 at 11:32 PM.
Well I got from ZZP and found out while I was there that I had water in my intercooler pipe right by the MAF sensor. Any ideas how the F water got in besides the car sitting all winter and condensation? So basically I didn't get numbers I wanted up there and they were in a rush because other people were there also. The car also is rich at idle and at WOT my afr gauge shows like 12.2 to 12.5 which i lean and not good I need to tweak it to be at about a 11.8. One nice thing is the car feels like it got more pep all around normal driving and turbo seems to start to spool a little earlier.
lol, if you are running a stock gauge, nothing on my car is stock.
but it is still behind the trottle body or it wouldnt read vacuum properly as the tb shuts. Now I can tell you when I had a 2psi leak at the bov that it was showing up as 2 inches of mercury so your theory of not being in the equation is dead wrong but so goes the way of this forum.
Good for you, now what's the gauge have to do with anything?
My bov flirts with being almost open at idle, no difference. I've blown a coupler and noticed no issues in idle quality at all. I don't know what type of boost leak test your doing but going off of vacuum is not the way to do it.
So I went looking around the car today but didnt go as far as pulling the turbo to find leaks and noticed there is a good amount of oil spraying out of my BOV onto the inner fender well behind the the passenger light. So looking around I found light oil coating on my MAP sensor and other parts. I think my turbo is leaking oil and could be the cause of my boosting issues. I am going to order a Mitsubishi Heavy Industries (MHI) rebuild kit (not ebay knockoffs) for just over 100 bucks and try my hand at a rebuild. My local turbo builder said that after an engine build the oil can allow a lot of things into the turbo and mess up the seals, mark up the soft brass bearings and clogging the high pressure line. So its the only thing I have not done as of yet to have the car back to its former 22 psi glory. It wont need rebalanced if I mark the components in their place before dis-assembly.
Well I got from ZZP and found out while I was there that I had water in my intercooler pipe right by the MAF sensor. Any ideas how the F water got in besides the car sitting all winter and condensation? So basically I didn't get numbers I wanted up there and they were in a rush because other people were there also. The car also is rich at idle and at WOT my afr gauge shows like 12.2 to 12.5 which i lean and not good I need to tweak it to be at about a 11.8. One nice thing is the car feels like it got more pep all around normal driving and turbo seems to start to spool a little earlier.
I would run a line from a known good vacuum source (like your intake) to your valve cover and put a catch can in the middle of the line.
and yes. I'm running ZZP's 3.5" MAF tubing with my MAF.
and yes. I'm running ZZP's 3.5" MAF tubing with my MAF.
Last edited by mexi_loco; Apr 16, 2013 at 10:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost



