what wastegate are you using?

i'm running the hallman pro mbc and a precision wg. vacuum line coming off the rear of the controller goes to the intake manifold. vacuum line coming off the side of the controller goes to the bottom of the wastegate. top nipple of the wastegate is left open.

 

Is it even worth is to put the lsj tb onto the Saab mani? My "new" tb from zzp throws a code every now and again. Yes I already know what I need to do to make it work/fit.

 

I hate chu! Lolol

 

I'm using the Tial 38mm wastegate. I got the lines all figured out but the car still feels down on power. I thought it might of been the boost controller but I'm running out of ideas.

 

I'm using the same wg. Top of wg going to bc and side of wg going to the vacuum line going into the bc from intake manifold

 

Have you preformed a compression n leak down test? Also is everything tighten down? What are the new symptoms? Slower spool? Af ratio jumping all over? Anything out of the norm?

 

Maybe he's just used to the power now.

 

log the car and watch for where KPA comes in compared to RPM. Post up some data logs so we can help you out with your boost problem? Didnt you replace your valves? Did you check compression before you did that?

 

Yup I'm liking this whole no ac and shorter belt! I know the -25 lbs didn't make the difference lol

 

is the no ac and shorter belt the same as just not turning the ac on and having it just free spool the compressor pulley. Car feels stupid fast whether its on or off to me...

 

i used to have a video of me spinning a spare compressor i had. there's actually a lot of load there even when it's off.

 

i also had the weight of every component and the total weight. but that stuff is all at the other house :/

 

Shorter belt=faster spinning. Plus without the little amount of load from the ac It's noticeable.

 

Anyone know the exact size of Lsj throttle body? Need to find a pipe coupler that fits

 

that makes sense. I thought about the ac nix especially since you can then use the 5 volt input for AFR strictly.

 

I checked compression and leak down. Changed springs and now Mbc. Also nought different wheels and tires. Haven't hit the Dyno yet but the last time I was on it. It read around 330 when it should be at 400ish Haha. Couple v8 guys said could be wheels and tires. So I went to the smaller tire I Dyno before on and lighter wheels that I always wanted. Got to replace a bad left axle and see if anything changed. The spool up is good and is roughly 11.8 to 12 AFR but my idle is jacked ad like 12.5 and Tim from ZZP don't seem to think its the tune I got from him but when in flash my old tune ingot with the kit it idles at 14.3 to 15

 

That 12ish idle is way too rich. Not sure but it may wash down the walls of the cylinder and remove oil from your rings over time.

Stoich is 14.7 for gas, I am at 9.8 stoich for E85 in my tune. My afr gauge at idle, cruise, and low rpm acceleration reads 14.2-14.7 on my wideband (even with E as lamda is the same on the afr gauge controller).

Sounds like a boost leak, boost controller, or a tune.

I make 338 whp at 15 psi and over 400 at 22 psi. With my boost leak I was only seeing 10psi and the car felt horrible. Mine was in my sheetmetal intake. Got it welded up by a race car builder with beefier welds. Good to go.

 

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=200933865552
My new turbo..nbd

 

have fun with the spool.

 

i find down shifting necessary with the 3600 rpm spool, anything over that is gonna feel like crap on a daily commute IMO. But if its the number you are chasing that Borg Warner will do it.

 

holy 5400 rpm to full spool turbo batman. I know it has a .91 ar but just looking around...

2007 STi: Twinscroll BorgWarner S300SX FMW vs Twinscroll Garrett GT4088R - NASIOC

 

Yeah man just go with the 5558 or even the 5858 like you said before much better choices and could still produce gobs of power

 

Haha I'm only joking

 

phew

 

Yeah my choices are either the 256et with the billet wheel or 5558