So where do I tap into the block for my oil feed line?

 

There is three ports on the back side under the head(Allen key heads) and you take one of those out and thread your feed line. I used the one closest to cyl one

Look in the front under the intake mani and it's the same on the back

 

Ok so I have a problem and I've came up with my high flow cat being poop.

Cold starts the idle jumps up to 1500ish and down to 700ish and such
Have to rev more than usual in 1st
Interceptor reads misfires like crazy(bkr7e gapped .030)
Driving around it likes to be at 190+ (60 outside)
On pulls it will hit 200 or more
And still beats 400whp evo's cars running like so haha


My guess is when I blew my motor all that coolant and such fucked up the highflow. I'm taking it out regardless just wondering if anyone else thinks my assumption is right.

 

boost higher then normal? odd smell? how many miles do the plugs have on them?

 

I think I am getting somewhere with this 20g... Not a hint of knock on any of these dyno runs.

 

anyone willing to take the 20g a little more serious? I would have been happy with 20 extra hp. Go figure 50 horsepower with just a BRFPS...

 

So what should my afr be when at idle, cruising around, and full throttle. Right now my idle jumps from 14.8-16+ sometimes. Cruise I'm about the same and full throttle I'm around 10.8 or 11.8 can't remember

 

I am 14.1-14.9 at idle/cruise and 12.1 WOT. If you have HPT your trims should be + or - 3-5 percent depending on how much you want to put into getting the error out of the tune.

 

props man that's sweet! how did you make more power with the brfps, were you running out of fuel previously? Also how much boost was the 472 on?

 

Thanks man, I was so nervous getting back on the dyno. I have been so afraid to blow another motor. This time I have no doubt I built my motor from the crank up, the right way. I was running out of fuel, which is still the case from 5500-7000. I need a bigger fuel pump. The injectors were around 60 percent at WOT. Boost at the 472 mark was 26psi peak/ 24psi nominal. I am using a turboxs High Performance Boost Controller. You can get rid of the peak with a second valve on the MBC. I am on E85 and those were 13 AFR's. Although I didnt have any knock I didnt leave it there. 13 is not the safest AFR. Got it down to a safer level by turning my boost controller back about a quarter turn and left it alone.

 

i NEED e85

 

Thanks c130aviator. So that means my tune is off?

 

Been like this since the rebuild lol, So the boost is adjusted to how it was on the first start up lol. Plugs don't have to many miles on them. And I don't think the highflow would stink it's just a metal honey Comb. Car is pretty damn quiet tho

 

yeah man, if you can, invest in HPtuners.

 

Oh and dat tick is going on, sure hope it's just loose manifold bolts.

 

i'd be interested to see how it does on the track. or another dyno lol

 

i would too, but before the hate starts, this is the same guy that tuned me at 420whp 4-5 months ago. I pay them not for unmbers but for a tune. The funny thing was that with just 2 turns on the boost controller we went from 18 to over 25 on the big run. Scared the crap out of me and I will admit that I am not running that AFR or power. With it being 100 degree today, I am sure there was correction in there. Its a dynomite dyno, go look into them, they are considered one of the more accurate chassis dyno's.

 

most mbc's 1 turn is about 3psi give or take.

 

Yeah, at first turn I moved it, nothing happened. we were trying to get the spike out with the spike adjustment on the Turboxs HPBC. Got it pretty flat, then upped the boost and didnt realize it was going to make that kind of power. It didnt knock at all even at 13 AFR's. We backed it down and I am running proabably closer to 440. That is still 40 whp more than I went in there daily driving with (400whp before todays tune).

 

Also I just thought that every time there is a dyno comparison thread every one states they are only good for comparing numbers to previous runs, the numbers arent important but the data that you get from them is. Well in my case this is my second set of runs in 4 months. I definitely found some more horsepower whether its corrected or not. It was on the same dynomite std correction setting.

I wont really know until I see what mph I trap in the quarter, my 60ft times are going to suck, though.

 

for anyone wondering, that was on stock lsj connecting rods and I pulled around the 460's probably a dozen or so times. no knock in any of the runs.

 

Out of no where this happened today. No noise Til I rev it up then she gets a knocking. Put a broom stick to the valve cover and the noise is coming from above cyl 3. Has a rough time idling at times. And of course i Floored it, seems to run fine lol

 

 

The stock lsj rods r good to 600 hp

 

But probably not 9k....

Horsepower doesn't break rods usually, it just weakens them. Rpms it what breaks them. How often do you see a rod smashed? Hardly ever. They almost always get pulled apart.