I'm kinda hoping someday that you guys will pick up a super base model Cobalt and mod the **** out of a 2.2

On topic though, this is amazing!

 

fkasc

 

I'd drop my 2.2 off there if they wanted to "mod the ****" out of it lol

 

it will fit. Swap the electronics or the parts that interface with them (reluctor wheel, cam position sensor, etc) and you're good to go. All ecotecs are externally dimensionally identical
those motors are well documented in the GM build books. Nothing is OEM really at that level. special block, custom forged everything, ported head, etc

 

You guys put in the money and the time. Good work!

 

True. We have found that GM used $ to work around poor engineering in many cases while building their cars.

 

I should pick up those books.

I am duly impressed with the ZZP results. I'm not so sure that thing would be real street friendly, but it's an interesting thought.

And we used to think crotch rockets were fast!

Ron

 

Good joke....

Since you refuse to release who makes these rods it is a fair question, these could be outsourced to anyone as far as anyone that doesn't work for ZZP is concerned.

To some of us simply being "ZZP Rods" isn't reasuring enough to purchase them, and since you made that little joke, after your valve springs 100% failure rate in cammed 2.2 Ecotecs on J-Body.org.

 

I kinda thought "rods-r-us" was funny

I can understand them wanting to be tight lipped on their supplier - because if their supplier will sell to the public, then using their name will pretty much guarantee a lost sale.

I can also see your end of things ~ I was interested in another item they offer, but since they wouldn't share with me the... umm, specs (let's leave it at that), I am not going to buy...

IMHO;
With some things you need to know more precisely what you're getting - but I don't know that I would put rods in that category;
With a rod all you're looking at is the metal/composition, the oiling provisions, and the rod cap/bolt assembly;
Considering the abuse they put this engine through, that in and of itself is a testament towards them holding up plenty well.
Since rods should always be checked/resized before using, the only thing that you might want to concern yourself with is if you want to "upgrade" to an ARP rod bolt ~ assuming that's not what they already come with...

But hey, that's just my two cents worth.

 

Great numbers for bragging rights...

By any chance will play time be over so we can get our EFR setups ?

Pretty please!!!!!

 

they come with ARP bolts and they say what material they are made out of, i dont think they should have to tell anyone who make there Rods either, why would they tell anyone that. They have put them in there cars and ran fine and i believe others have them as well including me.

As a statment the clearance was 100% perfect for the crank end ( .001) as it was supposed ot be when i installed, only thing i had to do was pin fit due to running diampond pistons. Time will tell how they hold up but i can tell you thats the least of my worries.

If you dont want them, dont use them but i think this thread has backed up the strength of the rods and so will further testing. Find another vendor that is working withe these cars as much as zzp. ( not directed towards you jon)

 

If it is not reassuring enough for you, then don't buy them. It's not really a big deal either way. You can pick up rods from Pauter, Carillo, or whoever you feel comfortable buying rods from. The ZZP rods that we sell are ZZP brand. We spec'd them. They are built to our design.

100% failure rate. lol. I suppose someone pulled the valve cover and found 16 broken springs. Good one. Either way, as I said before, we have 100% success with our 78 lb valvesprings. The fact that a certain type of build has experienced some issues tells me that the issue is not the springs, but rather something overlooked that is not compatible.

 

From the ZZP rod page: "ZZPerformance rods are also equipped with ARP 2000 bolts "

 

As far as I'm concerned, if these rods can push over 600-898whp for 60 dyno pulls, they're just fine for the typical 500whp application. Now, of course running these rods at 900whp day to day would be absurd for longevity, but I don't think there is anything to worry about in a DD car with anywhere under 500-600whp.

Let me add to this, that even a 600whp build on a 4 cyl is not built for reliability. Nothing is guaranteed when you crank the boost.

 

Cam specs have been posted for months. I'm not sure why you feel that we won't share them with you.

 

oh?

I didn't say what it was because (frankly) I didn't want to dredge another topic into this one;
I thought I was polite, yet relatively vauge about it;
I stopped watching that other thread some time ago...

I just looked, and sure enough the advertised duration and lift are there;
I can see that they can now also be ordered by themselves!

Thank you very much for letting me know this!

 

dyno numbers sell product. we both know that. the lsx guys are HUGE dyno junkies. the truck guys {especially the 6.2 ones} are even worse. you crack off 750rwhp with a bolt on turbo kit, mild cam, and head studs for less than 7k on cost. you struck a gold mine in that world.

rockin 900fwhp on the street isn't any safer than 1500 rwhp. just proves to everyone else you have the biggest dick, and the ***** to run it. rolling burn outs down the highway scare off a lot of people who "think" they have enough to hang.


to everyone else who thinks this level of whp is cheap. you have no idea

 

lol, yeah I don't think Ryan has any plans to test out 50+psi boost on the street. We had to use slicks, 4th gear, and thousands of pounds of force pulling the car down on the rollers to keep the tires from spinning. Even if the power was use-able on the street, the trans would fail in the first couple hits. Then even if the trans was able to hold up, that was the level that caused motor issues to start to arrise. It basically just teaches us what we can't do on the street more than what we can.

 

I guess if 1000 engine hp isn't enough for you to be reassured then these aren't the rods for you. Your asking a ? that we don't even have to answer. Do you call other rod companies and ask them who makes their rods. Just because there name is on the rod doesn't mean they were manufactured in their building. The company could tell you they were built in-house but if they were lying how would you know. By purchasing parts with the ZZP name on them that should be all the reassurance you need. When you respond that you had a ZZP part fail and the name doesn't reassure you well I can reassure you that I have seen plenty of cars making more power than yours have zero issues with the springs. That makes me think installer error. Either way, any part can fail no matter what the brand is, that's how modifying cars goes sometimes.

 

we had to do the same thing on the shop honda's cranking 900+whp on the rollers and trying to get them to stay put is a pain in the ass!

it won't break with street tires.

then again. it wouldn't do anything.

auto trans swap. 700whp. 9 sec fwd street car, maybe faster.

 

nice work zzp...and my zzp springs are just fine as well as every other part i had from zzp. The only problem i had was my turbo mani was warped on one corner and blew the gasket and i had to have it milled down to fix it.

 

I was there during their early runs on April 1st while waiting to have my clutch installed...the sound of that beast made the wait enjoyable...Congrats guys!

 

PLEASE blow it up

 

 

hmm I just happen to have an auto swap setup sitting in my garage for sale lol.

and amen on the street tires, I had to rock mickey's on the street at only 450whp just to make the car go anywhere. even then it would still spin up through 4th gear if the tires weren't heated up good.