cold air intake, 2.4 intake mani, 2.4 tb, stg 2 cams, shaved head .020", 4-2-1 header, catless dp, 3" cia exhaust w/ 2.5" muffler, lightweight crank and alt pullies, and a tune

 

What do you think I'll be with this:

Injen CAI
CAI 4-1 (1 5/8")
CAI DP (catted)
CAI cat-back (2.5")
2.4 TB
2.4 Intake mani
Lightweight crank pulley
Lightweight alternator pulley
Trifecta tune

Any projections?.. I figure you guys with this would give me a better estimate.

 

Injen SRI
2.4 TB
2.4 Intake mani
LSJ header
LSJ DP (hiflow cat)
custom cat-back (2ź'') W/O resonator
Lightweight crank pulley
Lightweight alternator pulley
flywheel fidanza
cam stg2
Trifecta tune

this is setup able to win against the majority of 4cyl. and few 6cyl.

the only lost i got are against boost car. like WRX, nissan sr20det, coablat SC,

your rival will be surprised by your car.

 

160-170

 

Do the light weight pullies actualy make a differance?

 

lets the revs build faster, maybe a small like 1 hp increase
although you loose some in the 1/4 etc cause there is less rotating mass to keep up the momentum, so it winds down faster as well and you have to regain that in between shifts

 

Why 2 1/4"?

I'd take 2 1/2"

Damn.. That's it..? Shitty.

 

i prefere my quicker rpm instead of torque and slower rpm.



lightweight pulley:
alternator+crank+flywheel+neutral balance shaft= FTW lighter pulley

 

Would you agree with NightHawk.. 160-170 HP for my build?

 

night is optimistic about his built.
you are pessimistic about what tom says about your built.
and i m realistic about you have to wait for the result before to make any comment.
if not drive a sundance 91 auto color beige.

 

no, tom knows what he is making, you have some SHITTY numbers for your build, and his is probly higher then what he will really make
im guessing 167whp
i was at 180 before the retune and new setup....i should be at 195-200 after this lil addition and then once i get finished...with high comp pistons and a fully ported/polished head etc...250 will be a cake walk

 

it estimation

maybe you will maybe , but you have to put that car on dyno

everytime i put my tupperware on mustang dyno it was .
but my źtime are quicker here in the house
i toasted nighthawk not both side, but all side a bread can have 6

but nighthawk toasted me on dyno big time too.
bravo for him and good job.
it probably a question of $$$$$ and opportunity.
for me it more a question of tricksss and tacticssss at the track

i just hope for you. i will be the fisrt one to say good tom.
you are a good R&D for me.
you answer my ? for STG2 cam. i did stg2 cam
so i follow what is going on with you.

 

Yeah, I'm just trying to piece the most quality build. Money isn't an issue, so I'd rather not cheap out on things. Hence the Clear Image items! They make the best parts for our car that they can make. Hands down.

I'm following both of you!

 

do you built that for ź, roll or both

will you buy DR tire?

with DR, WR+++, flywheel and 2.4 ho, i was able to run 14,8

 

1. Both. I want to run it at the track, but also race on street.
2. No. I will stay stock tires/rims.

What is WR+++? 2.4 HO is the manifold?

Huh?

 

wr+++= severe weight reduction

without DR you wont touch 14s'

yes 2.4ho is a manifold

and my 14,8 was untuned.


i not the only one, but can you explain to us why you dyno is uncorrected.
it that means you number would be lower.
i posted those number on qc forum and a dyno owner has argued that your number were uncorrected.
it sound lower number when corrected

 

1. What did you remove for "severe" weight reduction?

2. I believe it is possible to get 14's without DR.

3. That is not my dyno.

4. Should I go work 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" cat-back? Which will yield more power?

5. Is 1 5/8" a good primary size? Would I make more power with something bigger or something smaller?

 

1. everything is removed accept driver seat and my dash. trim some part of my car, removed some item that i dont need during summer.
2. you ll need a perfect 60' to do this W/O DR. i mean close to 2s' flat
3. tom dyno
4. 2˝
5. i guess 1 5/8 is good. keep it all same diameter.

 

Thanks for being so helpful, Hucker!

I hope 4-1 header is better for my build than 4-2-1, I'm still not sure if I will do cams.

Also, would it be a good idea to buy a wideband?.. Or is it not needed?

 

are you insecure about your built.

your 4-1 will be good as the 4-2-1.

it always a good idea about a wideband. if you have money go.

about cam, i would say no, cause it harder to install that a exhaust setup. 08 is really harder to install.

i suggest to you nitro around 55 hp untuned or 75hp tuned or a zzp stg1 turbo kit

 

Not insecure at all.. Trying to buy the best parts for my build!

Money is not an issue for the wideband.. I was just wondering if it is worth it to get.

Why are cams hard on 2008?.. Cam position sensor?

 

ya, cam position sensor.


and you sound like your on the right path

the reason it is uncorrected is because that is what was used before so it gives us an acurate DIFFERENCE since before.
although due to conditions where i am, its about the same for that day.

 

What do I have to do?.. Just buy an aftermarket sensor?

Also, with the build I listed, would you recommend a wideband also?

 

its gotta me machined in

and for the wideband, its really not necessary cause your n/a, but it doesn't hurt to have

 

How much is the aftermarket sensor?.. Or where do I buy it? I've never seen it.

I kind of wanted a wideband just to be safe, and for tuning purposes. I'm not sure.