Supercharger build Lap
Damn that sucks, stay warm out there! will do bud!
I got around to replacing all the dead bulbs in my garage, electrical is a bit of nightmare out there so many light switches lol. Going to have to repaint the exterior in the summer, looks like only the roof needs insulation, a slight patch in the corner and it should be mint. Also wouldn't mind painting the interior too....
thinking for today though, I'll replace the rad petcock nice and easy, get the facia off, pressurize the HE system and try to find that leak. Almost forgot I had a new pump, so they'll make it's way on too soon
I got around to replacing all the dead bulbs in my garage, electrical is a bit of nightmare out there so many light switches lol. Going to have to repaint the exterior in the summer, looks like only the roof needs insulation, a slight patch in the corner and it should be mint. Also wouldn't mind painting the interior too....
thinking for today though, I'll replace the rad petcock nice and easy, get the facia off, pressurize the HE system and try to find that leak. Almost forgot I had a new pump, so they'll make it's way on too soon
Rad petcock is now fixed, however could not find a HE leak :/
Re did my whole HE plumbing, added back the S3 HE paired with the stealth, the two thing's are a hair apart lol! High flow pump is now on.
Tested the pump in a few different places, still having an issue where my option b tank is pressurizing or fluid is being forced through the bleed line, sigh... Ended up plugging the bleed line for now.
Think I'll keep keeping an eye on it, see if I can't spot this elusive leak but I have one last idea and that's bleeding the system from the manifold rather than the HE. Maybe that might affect things, who knows at this point lol.
I am going to go ahead with getting a IAT sensor put on. I already have a 1/8NPT one, but I think I want to get a 3/8's one which has a little wider range of temp's it can read and I'm thinking I should just be able to drill and tap that one in my manifold as it should be a little bit larger than the existing slot.
Re did my whole HE plumbing, added back the S3 HE paired with the stealth, the two thing's are a hair apart lol! High flow pump is now on.
Tested the pump in a few different places, still having an issue where my option b tank is pressurizing or fluid is being forced through the bleed line, sigh... Ended up plugging the bleed line for now.
Think I'll keep keeping an eye on it, see if I can't spot this elusive leak but I have one last idea and that's bleeding the system from the manifold rather than the HE. Maybe that might affect things, who knows at this point lol.
I am going to go ahead with getting a IAT sensor put on. I already have a 1/8NPT one, but I think I want to get a 3/8's one which has a little wider range of temp's it can read and I'm thinking I should just be able to drill and tap that one in my manifold as it should be a little bit larger than the existing slot.
Rad petcock is now fixed, however could not find a HE leak :/
Re did my whole HE plumbing, added back the S3 HE paired with the stealth, the two thing's are a hair apart lol! High flow pump is now on.
Tested the pump in a few different places, still having an issue where my option b tank is pressurizing or fluid is being forced through the bleed line, sigh... Ended up plugging the bleed line for now.
Think I'll keep keeping an eye on it, see if I can't spot this elusive leak but I have one last idea and that's bleeding the system from the manifold rather than the HE. Maybe that might affect things, who knows at this point lol.
I am going to go ahead with getting a IAT sensor put on. I already have a 1/8NPT one, but I think I want to get a 3/8's one which has a little wider range of temp's it can read and I'm thinking I should just be able to drill and tap that one in my manifold as it should be a little bit larger than the existing slot.
Re did my whole HE plumbing, added back the S3 HE paired with the stealth, the two thing's are a hair apart lol! High flow pump is now on.
Tested the pump in a few different places, still having an issue where my option b tank is pressurizing or fluid is being forced through the bleed line, sigh... Ended up plugging the bleed line for now.
Think I'll keep keeping an eye on it, see if I can't spot this elusive leak but I have one last idea and that's bleeding the system from the manifold rather than the HE. Maybe that might affect things, who knows at this point lol.
I am going to go ahead with getting a IAT sensor put on. I already have a 1/8NPT one, but I think I want to get a 3/8's one which has a little wider range of temp's it can read and I'm thinking I should just be able to drill and tap that one in my manifold as it should be a little bit larger than the existing slot.
Fingers crossed, just gotta keep trying lol. Losing my sanity on this one. But I think in the grand scheme of things it's a pretty small system, there's a leak somewhere, that should fix my option b functionality, I'll figure it out eventually.
Yeah exactly brotha. So I need your opinion on CABS. I bought Powell lower cabs a few months back and decided I want the trailing ones as well. Here's the issue I see the OTTP version is 199.00 us. Do you think they are just as good as the Powell version or should I just pay the extra money and get Powell? I've been trying to get a hold of Gloria but lately she has not got back to me. For reference I already bought their hardcore swaybar, twisting rear bushings, and lower control arm bushings. I would much rather have it all be Powell but I figured ottp might be an alternative if I can't get from Powell. What do you think brotha? And I know I can get from ZZP but I don't want to pay almost $500 Canadian for bushings. Not worth it.
I would say do it right the first time, support Canadian businesses too, buy Powell. Lifetime warranty, product was developed in subarctic climate with salty roads, pretty sure I read somewhere after his initial batch and slight material change he's never had to warranty those bad boys.
Stock arms with the trailing Powell cab upgrade is well worth it. MY cabs are better than any other version, as they are made with better material, a stronger cross axis center joint ( by far) and better lubricity. Lifetime warranty. Never had a claim, replaced two due to installer error ( tore the boot) as I felt sorry for the poor guy.
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I would email Gloria to see if John has any more sets at his house. When I went late last year to get his set of CABs, he had to dig through his garage for a bit. If not, you might have to have it shipped from the US warehouse.
[QUOTE=G5ALIVE;7743363]I would say do it right the first time, support Canadian businesses too, buy Powell. Lifetime warranty, product was developed in subarctic climate with salty roads, pretty sure I read somewhere after his initial batch and slight material change he's never had to warranty those bad boys.[/Q
Yeah that's what I figured you would say brotha lol. I'm going to try and get a hold of Gloria and see what they have left in their main warehouse for stock. Last time I heard from her was about a month ago and she checking her inventory to see if the CABS were in stock. Hopefully I can get them soon. And you are right brotha I wanna get the best parts and get my build done properly. You made me snap to my senses haha. Have anymore luck finding the leak?
Yeah that's what I figured you would say brotha lol. I'm going to try and get a hold of Gloria and see what they have left in their main warehouse for stock. Last time I heard from her was about a month ago and she checking her inventory to see if the CABS were in stock. Hopefully I can get them soon. And you are right brotha I wanna get the best parts and get my build done properly. You made me snap to my senses haha. Have anymore luck finding the leak?
Yep was talking with Gloria about a month ago about seeing if the trailing CABS were in stock in their main warehouse but she never got back to me. I'm going to reach out to her again next week see if I can get them. I much rather deal directly with Powell instead of ordering them through ZZP and then having to pay crazy shipping charges and more money total. Hopefully Gloria can get them to me.
Yep was talking with Gloria about a month ago about seeing if the trailing CABS were in stock in their main warehouse but she never got back to me. I'm going to reach out to her again next week see if I can get them. I much rather deal directly with Powell instead of ordering them through ZZP and then having to pay crazy shipping charges and more money total. Hopefully Gloria can get them to me.
As an FYI, John and OTTP have a history. OTTP used to be the only place to get PRS parts, other than direct. I don't remember the details, but about 10 years ago, they had a falling out, and if I remember correctly, it was because Josh@OTTP had started offering his own versions of the parts - essentially just copies, and he was undercutting the price (easy to do when you have no real R&D invested).
They went to court over it. I don't remember the end result (OOC settlement? Ruling? I don't remember). A lot of us stopped ordering from OTTP after that - I'm glad to see he survived and is (seemingly) surviving & thriving though.
Just something to keep in mind with vendor support. And the reality of the situation is that EVERYONE copies. No one offered rotated mounts until PRS showed up with them... and then everyone released their own version. Same goes for steering rack spacers, LCA bushings, UCR's, hollow/quality anti-sway bars, track focused springs, etc.
At this point in the game though, just buy whatever is cheapest. Ten years ago I would have urged you to buy from PRS since they were still innovating and coming up with parts - support the vendors that REALLY support the community. At this point though, no one is really innovating for this platform, so just buy whatever is easiest/cheapest.
Just my take with a little bit of a history lesson.
They went to court over it. I don't remember the end result (OOC settlement? Ruling? I don't remember). A lot of us stopped ordering from OTTP after that - I'm glad to see he survived and is (seemingly) surviving & thriving though.
Just something to keep in mind with vendor support. And the reality of the situation is that EVERYONE copies. No one offered rotated mounts until PRS showed up with them... and then everyone released their own version. Same goes for steering rack spacers, LCA bushings, UCR's, hollow/quality anti-sway bars, track focused springs, etc.
At this point in the game though, just buy whatever is cheapest. Ten years ago I would have urged you to buy from PRS since they were still innovating and coming up with parts - support the vendors that REALLY support the community. At this point though, no one is really innovating for this platform, so just buy whatever is easiest/cheapest.
Just my take with a little bit of a history lesson.
As an FYI, John and OTTP have a history. OTTP used to be the only place to get PRS parts, other than direct. I don't remember the details, but about 10 years ago, they had a falling out, and if I remember correctly, it was because Josh@OTTP had started offering his own versions of the parts - essentially just copies, and he was undercutting the price (easy to do when you have no real R&D invested).
They went to court over it. I don't remember the end result (OOC settlement? Ruling? I don't remember). A lot of us stopped ordering from OTTP after that - I'm glad to see he survived and is (seemingly) surviving & thriving though.
Just something to keep in mind with vendor support. And the reality of the situation is that EVERYONE copies. No one offered rotated mounts until PRS showed up with them... and then everyone released their own version. Same goes for steering rack spacers, LCA bushings, UCR's, hollow/quality anti-sway bars, track focused springs, etc.
At this point in the game though, just buy whatever is cheapest. Ten years ago I would have urged you to buy from PRS since they were still innovating and coming up with parts - support the vendors that REALLY support the community. At this point though, no one is really innovating for this platform, so just buy whatever is easiest/cheapest.
Just my take with a little bit of a history lesson.
They went to court over it. I don't remember the end result (OOC settlement? Ruling? I don't remember). A lot of us stopped ordering from OTTP after that - I'm glad to see he survived and is (seemingly) surviving & thriving though.
Just something to keep in mind with vendor support. And the reality of the situation is that EVERYONE copies. No one offered rotated mounts until PRS showed up with them... and then everyone released their own version. Same goes for steering rack spacers, LCA bushings, UCR's, hollow/quality anti-sway bars, track focused springs, etc.
At this point in the game though, just buy whatever is cheapest. Ten years ago I would have urged you to buy from PRS since they were still innovating and coming up with parts - support the vendors that REALLY support the community. At this point though, no one is really innovating for this platform, so just buy whatever is easiest/cheapest.
Just my take with a little bit of a history lesson.
Yeah that's what I figured you would say brotha lol. I'm going to try and get a hold of Gloria and see what they have left in their main warehouse for stock. Last time I heard from her was about a month ago and she checking her inventory to see if the CABS were in stock. Hopefully I can get them soon. And you are right brotha I wanna get the best parts and get my build done properly. You made me snap to my senses haha. Have anymore luck finding the leak?
No luck lately lol. Started running into the same problem last fall were I'm redlining 1st gear... still waiting for the day it happens on flawless, dry, warm roads but eeek it's got me wondering..
Did an alignment today because when my strut bolt fell out the alignment was thrown out a bit, or so I thought. Looks like the last tech who did my alignment forgot to tighten pretty much everything lol. Hence the strut bolt falling out, tech today noticed tied rod end nuts were loose and looking at the rear, it looks like my diff shifted so I'm betting nothing in the rear is tight either
. So gonna have to get another allignment done, have the rear end disconnected and re-attached. Sucks but hey at least it's another problem off the list. I want an absolute perfect alignment when I go to make a pass this year lol... last year both rear tires were going right, so there's time to be made up there for sure.
After work tmr and cleaning the garage, she'll be on ramps for a week. Gonna go to town trying to find the leak. Disappointed the 3/8s IAT sensor is gonna take a little while to get here, but as soon as that does going to have either my work tap threads into the manifold or send it for someone to weld a bung on. It's getting done tho!
After work tmr and cleaning the garage, she'll be on ramps for a week. Gonna go to town trying to find the leak. Disappointed the 3/8s IAT sensor is gonna take a little while to get here, but as soon as that does going to have either my work tap threads into the manifold or send it for someone to weld a bung on. It's getting done tho!
Haha no problem they are awesome bushings!
No luck lately lol. Started running into the same problem last fall were I'm redlining 1st gear... still waiting for the day it happens on flawless, dry, warm roads but eeek it's got me wondering..
Did an alignment today because when my strut bolt fell out the alignment was thrown out a bit, or so I thought. Looks like the last tech who did my alignment forgot to tighten pretty much everything lol. Hence the strut bolt falling out, tech today noticed tied rod end nuts were loose and looking at the rear, it looks like my diff shifted so I'm betting nothing in the rear is tight either
. So gonna have to get another allignment done, have the rear end disconnected and re-attached. Sucks but hey at least it's another problem off the list. I want an absolute perfect alignment when I go to make a pass this year lol... last year both rear tires were going right, so there's time to be made up there for sure.
No luck lately lol. Started running into the same problem last fall were I'm redlining 1st gear... still waiting for the day it happens on flawless, dry, warm roads but eeek it's got me wondering..
Did an alignment today because when my strut bolt fell out the alignment was thrown out a bit, or so I thought. Looks like the last tech who did my alignment forgot to tighten pretty much everything lol. Hence the strut bolt falling out, tech today noticed tied rod end nuts were loose and looking at the rear, it looks like my diff shifted so I'm betting nothing in the rear is tight either
. So gonna have to get another allignment done, have the rear end disconnected and re-attached. Sucks but hey at least it's another problem off the list. I want an absolute perfect alignment when I go to make a pass this year lol... last year both rear tires were going right, so there's time to be made up there for sure.Yeah my alignment is garbage I got over a year ago from a shitty shop I went to. However having worn out suspension parts doesn't help either lol. Once I get everything put on the car i'll be getting into a shop asap for a proper 4 wheel alignment and getting it done right this time.
I think I identified a section of bad hose that connects the two outs on my manifold. Thinking the fitting's might be broken underneath, otherwise I don't understand how it's leaking and effecting the whole system so much but its there, noticeable seepage so I'll go in and replace next week.
Gonna take the car with me all this week, brining some friends in for the weekend in the country, so might as well just drive it this week since it's all in once piece currently.
Got a U0101 code this morning, which was like TCM lost communication so that could be something to do with why I'm redlining 1st gear maybe. Doubt it but could be something...
It's gonna happen man! Might end up taking it home on a trailer lol but it's gonna ******* happen! I'm all for it!
Oooo I get so many allignments lol I'm so picky, I want to start a punch card system where I get one free after x many per year lol..
I think I identified a section of bad hose that connects the two outs on my manifold. Thinking the fitting's might be broken underneath, otherwise I don't understand how it's leaking and effecting the whole system so much but its there, noticeable seepage so I'll go in and replace next week.
Gonna take the car with me all this week, brining some friends in for the weekend in the country, so might as well just drive it this week since it's all in once piece currently.
Got a U0101 code this morning, which was like TCM lost communication so that could be something to do with why I'm redlining 1st gear maybe. Doubt it but could be something...
Oooo I get so many allignments lol I'm so picky, I want to start a punch card system where I get one free after x many per year lol..
I think I identified a section of bad hose that connects the two outs on my manifold. Thinking the fitting's might be broken underneath, otherwise I don't understand how it's leaking and effecting the whole system so much but its there, noticeable seepage so I'll go in and replace next week.
Gonna take the car with me all this week, brining some friends in for the weekend in the country, so might as well just drive it this week since it's all in once piece currently.
Got a U0101 code this morning, which was like TCM lost communication so that could be something to do with why I'm redlining 1st gear maybe. Doubt it but could be something...
I kinda chuckled at first, greasy, I've seen that one before but hey if it works. Starting to think that's a very plausible theory I've overlooked. Hmm you've given me something to think about thankyou.
Honestly I gotta check mine as well brotha because it is known to happen with these cars.
Temp sensor will be in tonight! Have to pick up my summer rims/ tires and then Saturday afternoon going to start checking suspension during the swap. Manifold should be coming to work with me Monday and Should have it back in by the end of the week. With the supercharger off, finger's crossed I'll make some progress with my bleed line situation.
Had a blast gutting the car the other day, insulation, panels, carpet, seats, seat belts, speakers, etc. Getting ready for it!
Who knows, might even try to slip on a smaller pulley mohaha
Had a blast gutting the car the other day, insulation, panels, carpet, seats, seat belts, speakers, etc. Getting ready for it!
Who knows, might even try to slip on a smaller pulley mohaha
Temp sensor will be in tonight! Have to pick up my summer rims/ tires and then Saturday afternoon going to start checking suspension during the swap. Manifold should be coming to work with me Monday and Should have it back in by the end of the week. With the supercharger off, finger's crossed I'll make some progress with my bleed line situation.
Had a blast gutting the car the other day, insulation, panels, carpet, seats, seat belts, speakers, etc. Getting ready for it!
Who knows, might even try to slip on a smaller pulley mohaha
Had a blast gutting the car the other day, insulation, panels, carpet, seats, seat belts, speakers, etc. Getting ready for it!
Who knows, might even try to slip on a smaller pulley mohaha
lol nice my brotha. Yes get that beast ready to break into the 13's. And yes fingers crossed you get the problem with the bleedline fixed. Only update I got this month is I finally got my front hub assembly this week from Rockauto and this time no issues and in mint condition so that'll be my first course of business. So that'll be on either this weekend or next weekend. I also got my TTR tranny mounts last week not sure if I mentioned to you are not about them lol. Sorry if I did already brotha lol. My brain has been mush lately lol. Baby Mamma issues lately lol. I'm going to pick up some moog tie rod ends and moog endlinks soon as well. I know I should do the Powerendlinks but for now the moogs will hold me over i' sure.
yeah you'll be fine with FE3/ FE5 links, YYZ's shouldn't drop your car that much at all. My car had a significant drop and then I moved to an FE3 bar so for me it was a no brainer having so much change up there.
Noice! yeah you told me no worries, those are going to be sweet! you plan on doing that yourself?
yeah you'll be fine with FE3/ FE5 links, YYZ's shouldn't drop your car that much at all. My car had a significant drop and then I moved to an FE3 bar so for me it was a no brainer having so much change up there.
yeah you'll be fine with FE3/ FE5 links, YYZ's shouldn't drop your car that much at all. My car had a significant drop and then I moved to an FE3 bar so for me it was a no brainer having so much change up there.
ok tks brotha that's good to know the moog endlinks are decent and will do me. I will be taking my control arms(bought new ones) and tranny mount bushings to a shop to get pressed in. I scored some cheap used auto 2.2/2.4 tranny mounts from my local junkyard for 25 bucks a piece front and rear . Then i'll install those myself. I'm basically going to do as much work myself as I can to save on cost.




