Supercharger build Lap
ok tks brotha that's good to know the moog endlinks are decent and will do me. I will be taking my control arms(bought new ones) and tranny mount bushings to a shop to get pressed in. I scored some cheap used auto 2.2/2.4 tranny mounts from my local junkyard for 25 bucks a piece front and rear . Then i'll install those myself. I'm basically going to do as much work myself as I can to save on cost.
As an FYI, John and OTTP have a history. OTTP used to be the only place to get PRS parts, other than direct. I don't remember the details, but about 10 years ago, they had a falling out, and if I remember correctly, it was because Josh@OTTP had started offering his own versions of the parts - essentially just copies, and he was undercutting the price (easy to do when you have no real R&D invested).
They went to court over it. I don't remember the end result (OOC settlement? Ruling? I don't remember). A lot of us stopped ordering from OTTP after that - I'm glad to see he survived and is (seemingly) surviving & thriving though.
Just something to keep in mind with vendor support. And the reality of the situation is that EVERYONE copies. No one offered rotated mounts until PRS showed up with them... and then everyone released their own version. Same goes for steering rack spacers, LCA bushings, UCR's, hollow/quality anti-sway bars, track focused springs, etc.
At this point in the game though, just buy whatever is cheapest. Ten years ago I would have urged you to buy from PRS since they were still innovating and coming up with parts - support the vendors that REALLY support the community. At this point though, no one is really innovating for this platform, so just buy whatever is easiest/cheapest.
Just my take with a little bit of a history lesson.
They went to court over it. I don't remember the end result (OOC settlement? Ruling? I don't remember). A lot of us stopped ordering from OTTP after that - I'm glad to see he survived and is (seemingly) surviving & thriving though.
Just something to keep in mind with vendor support. And the reality of the situation is that EVERYONE copies. No one offered rotated mounts until PRS showed up with them... and then everyone released their own version. Same goes for steering rack spacers, LCA bushings, UCR's, hollow/quality anti-sway bars, track focused springs, etc.
At this point in the game though, just buy whatever is cheapest. Ten years ago I would have urged you to buy from PRS since they were still innovating and coming up with parts - support the vendors that REALLY support the community. At this point though, no one is really innovating for this platform, so just buy whatever is easiest/cheapest.
Just my take with a little bit of a history lesson.
When it comes to my parts being cheaper than other places, it's because I make them all in house. Quality is top tier too.
Update# New front hub is on Brotha. TC light is off and it seems to shifting normally again. I only took it for a short run because i'm low on fuel right now. Still hearing humming noises from the rear though so I do think my rear hubs are on there way out lol, but I will get to them later.
Noice! I centered my rear axle yesterday to the best of my ability, put on the summer tires checked suspension over. Found a torn adjustable sway bar link boot with no grease left. :/
debating meddling with HE plumbing, I’m a little sore today. Might just take the manifold off and leave HE stuff till I have it back on with the new temp sensor.
debating meddling with HE plumbing, I’m a little sore today. Might just take the manifold off and leave HE stuff till I have it back on with the new temp sensor.
Noice! I centered my rear axle yesterday to the best of my ability, put on the summer tires checked suspension over. Found a torn adjustable sway bar link boot with no grease left. :/
debating meddling with HE plumbing, I’m a little sore today. Might just take the manifold off and leave HE stuff till I have it back on with the new temp sensor.
debating meddling with HE plumbing, I’m a little sore today. Might just take the manifold off and leave HE stuff till I have it back on with the new temp sensor.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Cobalt-SS-Su...sAAOSwB-1Ypi7X
Last edited by Monieg5gt; Mar 14, 2021 at 03:27 PM.
Damn Son lol. Looks like you will need a rebuild brotha. I've seen recoated rotors being sold on ebay before. I would try looking unless you are going to do it all yourself. Mine has a few tiny nicks but nothing like yours is. What causes this? Bad needle bearing?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Cobalt-SS-Su...sAAOSwB-1Ypi7X
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Cobalt-SS-Su...sAAOSwB-1Ypi7X
Damn lol. Ok well so long as she is still running good brotha that's all that matters. So on the subject of pulley sizes. I was thinking about stuff last night and was considering bypassing the 3.1 pulley that came with my kit and ordering a 3.0 pulley instead. I know that i'm going to be getting the dual pass and option b plus I already have full exhaust. Can I run with 91 octane on a 3.0 pulley? Or would I need to add meth to it. I know if I ever dropped to the size you got 2.8-2.9 I would need meth for sure. Just wanted to find out with a 3.0 since its not much smaller than 3.1 pulley. Just a thought anyway lol, as I probably will stay at 3.1 for awhile until I get use to the car.
Damn lol. Ok well so long as she is still running good brotha that's all that matters. So on the subject of pulley sizes. I was thinking about stuff last night and was considering bypassing the 3.1 pulley that came with my kit and ordering a 3.0 pulley instead. I know that i'm going to be getting the dual pass and option b plus I already have full exhaust. Can I run with 91 octane on a 3.0 pulley? Or would I need to add meth to it. I know if I ever dropped to the size you got 2.8-2.9 I would need meth for sure. Just wanted to find out with a 3.0 since its not much smaller than 3.1 pulley. Just a thought anyway lol, as I probably will stay at 3.1 for awhile until I get use to the car.
Remember tho, a smaller pulley will take away from belt tension. I’d recommend doing a 2.9 and phenolic spacers, keeping your existing belt and tensioner. As the spacer will push the supercharger/ manifold out 1/4”, compensating for the 0.2” you take off the pulley.
Absolutely you can, just run less timing. Half the year my gas tune has about 12 degrees of spark with a 2.9” pulley. And in the summer same pulley but with methanol it’s 20.
Remember tho, a smaller pulley will take away from belt tension. I’d recommend doing a 2.9 and phenolic spacers, keeping your existing belt and tensioner. As the spacer will push the supercharger/ manifold out 1/4”, compensating for the 0.2” you take off the pulley.
Remember tho, a smaller pulley will take away from belt tension. I’d recommend doing a 2.9 and phenolic spacers, keeping your existing belt and tensioner. As the spacer will push the supercharger/ manifold out 1/4”, compensating for the 0.2” you take off the pulley.
Last edited by Monieg5gt; Mar 14, 2021 at 07:36 PM.
Sounds good my brotha. Yeah I remember you telling me about this in the summer now if I was to drop the pulley size I need the manifold spacer to compensate for the belt size. How much power do you think I could get at wheels with the 2.9 pulley and my supporting mods. I've seen on youtube that most 2.2's and 2.4 are running anywhere from 230-240 at the wheels with the 3.1(2.2's in the low 230s and 2.4's in the low 240s). So you think with the 2.9 I could see about low 250s at the wheels? The only thing I worried about is the auto tranny.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZl8jBgFVrU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZl8jBgFVrU
You could also swap to LSJ drive system and get an adjustable tensioner which I dream of having one day. A Supercharger spacer could also push the supercharger pulley out the same way a phenolic spacer does. Shorter belt And last option would be a larger idler pulley.
I estimate on my car, without methanol and 2.9 its around 300 engine HP maybe 240-250whp 12 degrees with vvt
With methanol, I estimate its around 360 engine hp, roughly 288-300whp. 20 degrees no vvt
For you car, yeah I'd expect 10-15 more hp with the same amount of timing
I think these transmissions are pretty good. Pretty sure HAHN got it up to 400HP with a turbo auto trans.
I’ve been beating on my now for at least a year, no shift reduction, no stall torque management, no trans torque management, diff score off, etc
I’ve been beating on my now for at least a year, no shift reduction, no stall torque management, no trans torque management, diff score off, etc
I know going from a stock setup 3.1 to 2.9, phenolic spacers are a sure bet to accommodate the change in slack for the drive system using all three gaskets..
You could also swap to LSJ drive system and get an adjustable tensioner which I dream of having one day. A Supercharger spacer could also push the supercharger pulley out the same way a phenolic spacer does. Shorter belt And last option would be a larger idler pulley.
I estimate on my car, without methanol and 2.9 its around 300 engine HP maybe 240-250whp 12 degrees with vvt
With methanol, I estimate its around 360 engine hp, roughly 288-300whp. 20 degrees no vvt
For you car, yeah I'd expect 10-15 more hp with the same amount of timing
You could also swap to LSJ drive system and get an adjustable tensioner which I dream of having one day. A Supercharger spacer could also push the supercharger pulley out the same way a phenolic spacer does. Shorter belt And last option would be a larger idler pulley.
I estimate on my car, without methanol and 2.9 its around 300 engine HP maybe 240-250whp 12 degrees with vvt
With methanol, I estimate its around 360 engine hp, roughly 288-300whp. 20 degrees no vvt
For you car, yeah I'd expect 10-15 more hp with the same amount of timing
How much were you making with the 3.1 pulley? I'll have dual pass, option b, s3 HE, cold air intake, lsj tb, 1.75 midlength header and 2.5 inch DP, 2.5 inch exhaust. i'm hoping for 230 to 240whp with this setup.


