ok good because I had a issue with the transmission wire and had to replace it. My car was going f$$King nuts and wouldn't drive right at all until I replaced that ground wire. Hopefully that will fix the issue brotha.

 

Yeah i know it’s fixed now.
My car always gives me a little friction shock on my finger when I exit the car after a short drive, closing the door.
Now that I think about it, I haven’t been shocked in weeks while it was acting up.

Been shocked a few times now for me to realize, “hey that hasn’t happened in a while..”

 

Was a tad worried there for a second. Haha thought I had pooched my engine controller.

Taking off G105 too, I didn’t anticipate the whole stud moving rather then just one nut coming off, bent a ground terminal end. Was freaking out, tightened it back up just to see if I had damaged it, new trans code haha. Was like omg omg.. but they cleaned up nice
and I would guess, I over filled my engine a tiny bit probably 5 weeks ago after an oil change Not great I know, but I have two breathers on the valve cover and fully expected it to just blow out rather quickly on the highway no big deal, I’ll wipe it off the valve cover plate a few times. Well I’m guessing that oil leaked down the drivers side of the valable cover, onto the transaxle and dripped right over G105.

 

Man I should take a picture of my headlight for you haha, it works but man is it ghetto….
I tapped a dear about a year ago (mpi was not chill about it) wanted me to drive to a service center to get it looked at when all I was asking for was a new headlamp because it just broke 1/2 mounting tabs and I lived like 70km away from said service center and would have had to miss work to go there, would have lost money… anyway I urethaned the mounting tab back on and it held for 9 months or something. Ended up breaking and I found a universal mounting bracket that I just ran through the front fender bolt hole and then tapped the other end into the body of the headlamp. I kinda love it but know it’s doomed haha I think I lasted maybe a month before I stripped the hole I made in the headlamp, it holds but one of these days I tell y’a she’s gonna go flying

i really want these headlamps but my god they’d be like 600 bucks landed

 

Even more miffed that I can get the black ones dirt cheap but not the chrome

 

Nope, it was short lived. I can tell its getting worse again, no more shocky shocky when leaving the vehicle, cold starts getting longer and longer. Disabled my Vats for a little while, haven't got a communication error code just yet but I feel it coming. Going to build some new grounds tonight, GF interrupted me last night haha. Thinking Ill add a ground from my starter to body and maybe slip another ground on G105 and run it up to the strut tower. Perhaps grounding below the headlamp isn't sufficient

 

I've seen a couple youtube videos where they ground the TCM itself to the strut tower, but that was for hard shifting. Here's a couple videos to all the grounds, and the TCM ground add-on.

 

Yeah I saw that too a while back..
Well I got shocked today over lunch and it started great, I think I'm still gonna be building some more cables tonight. Almost starting to wonder if Ice is building up on my ground under the headlamp, like it almost seems weather related in some manor, not necessarly sheer temperature alone, but on mornings where my car is covered in frost it seems to be the worst.

 

Once you clean it up, you could spray some flex seal on it to cover it.

 

HMM, good idea ty!

 

I have thought about getting this kit awhile back brotha. I emailed them and asked them if these are compatible with 2.2/2.4 ecotech. They said that the lsj version would be the one I would need. This might be worth trying out brotha. Here is the link ZZP Cobalt Big 3 Wire Kit – ZZPerformance

 

Yeah I saw those too, but its way cheaper to just build your own, little hard to get the wire into the connector, I usually just take a torch, melt solder until it fills up the connector and then quickly jam it in, will never come out

 

**** we dropped an easy 10 degrees last night, I NEED to work on this tonight. Was really bad this morning, almost died during start up, lights were dimming once it did turn on for a few seconds.
I've been watching my battery voltage a lot lately and on the highway I'm getting 14.3-14.6V and after parked all night it seems to fall to 11.8V. Its a brand new AGM battery with 650CCA, wondering if I Should swap it out now for something else for a few days, try that,
would love to fit a mopar BAAH8800AA, BA94R765AA or BAAH7700AA, big boys

 

I also would like to get my GF to wake up super early so she can start it and I could watch the engine bay, maybe visually we could see a bad ground sparking, IDK. Just shitty the window for diagnosing this is like 2 seconds only on cold start lol

 

For ***** and giggles, do you have a jumper pack? If you put it on and do a cold start with one of those, to bypass the battery, that will tell you whether or not there's an issue with the voltage of the battery, or if there's something wrong with the terminals. I would test the battery before you do so, to confirm.

 

Yeah I feel silly, Apparently 11.8 is really low for an AGM.. I thought 0.2v was nothing for a 12V system but techs here are saying it should read 12.6 after sitting over night.
i ordered a new battery from town here, it came 47% charged. I got it to fully charge but I don’t want that one. Ordered another one from WPG, it came 98% charged. Charging it up again. Going to pull my battery either at home or before I leave work, I bet that battery sat for a year or two

 

I’m bad for assuming new parts can’t be bad, especially with my job I should know better, stupid me.

 

Hmm. Swapped the battery before leaving work. Put it on the charger for a few minutes than disconnected it. Took a picture of 13.1V and it was stable/ going down very slowly.

in my car watching the interceptor however, it drops much quicker, when the engine is killed it immediately goes down to 12.5 and with a steady pace towards 12.1-11.8.

assuming the battery actually is good, which I think we’re going to find out tomorrow when it still reads 12.8-13.1V, then what could it be…
Seems like either something is remaining on and truly killing the charge quickly, power short to ground or perhaps the charge really is all there but the starter and my obd aren’t receiving everything.

I remember that I was having a problem with my Intercooler pump in the summer after adding hood vents, the vents would apply a very small force against the red cap over our positive jump terminal, which in turn squished the Intercooler’s positive wire (plumbed into the ECM fuse) against the positive post.

I fixed that issue by running the positive wire under the two 4gauge or whatever cables on the positive jump post. Instead of over, thus not allowing the PDC cover to make contact with the Intercoolers power supply. So my Intercooler pump no longer runs key off with the hood closed lol.
But maybe I’m missing something with this? The Intercooler pump wire was never damaged or broken, all it’s insulation was there, could they still be too close to one another, maybe it’s not giving the pump enough power to run but still somehow jumping the key on fuse it’s on.. I don’t understand how through insulation (like I understand from physics perspective but in a real world, I wouldn’t think they’re be enough power to make a jump like that and for it to actually be noticeable.)
i think I’m gonna have to dress up, put on some warm clothes and take a few lights outside, fun fun

 

Hmm, going back on data files across several years it’s not uncommon for my car to start with 11.13, 11.58,11.8, 11.49, 11.15 and that would be through obd so same charge my interceptor would pick up.

Well we’re going out with the laptop see if I still have communications codes and to add ground wires.

 

Okay, so the battery in now is much better but not the cause of my problems though.

Now, I removed my interceptor and swapped to my laptop several times seeing if I could cause the issue, moved and pulled on some wiring.
On one occasion, the split second I plugged in my laptop cable it set off some chimes and there was a basic u0073.
and on the only other occasion while moving the obd port a little it started to sound slightly off so I looked up my whole dash was acting up and I pulled all these codes

 

A remote start install was attempted on this car about 6-7 years ago by a shop Forman, the skematics in the box were wrong and the car was wired back up without the remote starter system.

there is a slight amount of corrosion on one of my interceptor terminals. Pin 6 high speed GMLAN.
however my hptuners cable does not.
yet it’s happened a few times now where it acted up exactly when the hptuners cable was plugged in.
Edit: but no, at the same time, I wouldn’t have brought out my laptop unless there was a problem and so the first codes and no starts must have been observable with the interceptor and my eyes.

 

Reseated Bcm connectors. Checked all ecm/tcm fuses, anti theft, starter relay, ipg, seat belts, air bags, all were good. All my pins are fully seated.

 

It’s gotta be something with the VICM, pulling the black connector outs sets a u0073 and P1501 theft déférant system which were the first codes it ever got.

now I think I may pull out my carpet see if I can spot a bad wire. Re seated the connector several times and my start up is super crisp right now

 

It’s got to be right at the obd connector cause moving it around will set off the codes. So either my cable or the high speed lan leading up to the obd.

i just find this odd because the problem this is creating, in the mornings it fails to start first try, engine starts and runs for about 1-2 second, dies. Restart is super strong like it didn’t have enough fuel the first time or failed to communicate with anti theft module but no codes are stored when this happens.
codes only trip when I move the connector or maybe once every ten times this happens.